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Overlapping Steel J Trim

m123

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Sep 28, 2016
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Midwest
Whats the secret in overlapping steel J trim? I know how to do vinyl, and it seems vinyl seams work well and looks good because because its more pliable, and you can remove the inside "lip" so the overlap covers the other piece nicely. I'm not sure its possible to remove this lip on metal and because of that the seam sticks way out.

I can't get my metal seams to look good. Is it the same as you do for vinyl? I'm finishing the inside of my building with steel, so I'm not worried about keeping water out and getting the overlap direction correct. Or do you just **** them up? Can anyone look at their metal building and tell me what the pros do?
 
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PWC Repair

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The pros finished putting on my metal 2 weeks ago and my j trim is just butted together. It looks just fine.
 

Verado1250

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Most metal roofing/siding vendors have colored pop rivets. I have used them on stubborn pieces that wouldn't lay flat. Doesn't look too bad.
 
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m123

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The hem is what I was trying to describe as the "lip". Yes it has a hem that is closed.

agj.jpg
 
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So in your picture, I added a line where you need to cut the face. The cut needs to be about an inch back and right near the top of the hem. after you cut it, fold the hem on the inside of the J 90 degrees or so and snip it or bend it back and forth until it breaks. this will fit inside the over lapping piece, but before you insert it, take your utility knife and slightly open up the closed hem, and insert the piece you just nipped an inch or as far as the nip will allow it to go inside the overlapping piece. Wallah!
 

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m123

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I'll give that a shot and see if it looks any better vs butting it up. Thanks.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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So in your picture, I added a line where you need to cut the face. The cut needs to be about an inch back and right near the top of the hem. after you cut it, fold the hem on the inside of the J 90 degrees or so and snip it or bend it back and forth until it breaks. this will fit inside the over lapping piece, but before you insert it, take your utility knife and slightly open up the closed hem, and insert the piece you just nipped an inch or as far as the nip will allow it to go inside the overlapping piece. Wallah!

You have to cut the back of the "j" too, otherwise it won't fit tight.
 

Verado1250

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If you are using metal for the roof and sides, there is a trim call F&J trim. It has the J trim for both the ceiling and walls all in one piece of trim.
 

NUTTSGT

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When I put the ceiling up in the house garage, I bent my own J-channel. At the joints, I cut the front and back off one section about an inch long. This left one piece with a tongue to slide in the other. I figured it should keep both faces flush with each other.

:dunno: I was learning as I went.
 
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No problem, just trying to help.

Oh I appreciate it. I ran a crew doing airplane hangers, so I used to be fairly keen on the building envelope technology (getting rusty these days). Last night my internet was running super slow and it took me about 12 minutes to do that post, which seemed like forever, and I needed to be up by 4 am next morning so I was panicking to get in bed!
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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It's been awhile for me too. Actually better way would be to make an angle cut on the base of the "C" to the vertical cut. Then the back can expand/contract, sliding over the other as it needs. Steel doesn't expand nearly as much as aluminum so just butting them together probably works just fine for install except in the middle of winter. I've seen aluminum 10' fascia wear off the paint up to 5/8" from expansion. We get from -35 t +35 celsius.
 
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