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Overspray’s 24x30 Multipurpose Shop/Man Cave

Overspray

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Oct 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
586, MI
Overspray’s 26x28 Multipurpose Shop/Man Cave

Hey guys,
Long time lurker and first time poster. I’ve finally made it to a garage build, so I’ll be detailing the progress and asking advice as I go.

A little background on me: Been doing collision/restoration/custom/show paint work for nearly a decade now. I’m pretty consistently building stuff around the house as well as tinkering with cars/trucks.

A little background on the compound: Back in 2011 my fiancé (now wife) and I decided to purchase a home. We looked all over at a ton of projects and finally bought our current 1198qft 3 bed, 1 bath house that really didn’t cross any of our “must haves” on the list. It didn’t have a big porch, a 2nd story, a basement, and it was on a dirt road.... yet here we are.

It came with a slightly delapidated 22x22 garage that was used for storage. Over the years I tried and tried to fix it up, adding shelving, 220v power, a compressor, OSB walls, etc... but the foundation was complete junk. I was consistently putting lipstick on a pig.

Finally one day, the heaved foundation was so bad that it caused the garage door to break (think 5” gap on one side). That was the last straw as there was no fixing this thing any longer, it had to go.


Fast foreword a few months as here we are. Completing my demolition tomorrow and will have everything hauled off. Praying I can squeak foundation and concrete pours in before it gets too cold up here in MI.


I don’t have many overall pictures of the original garage (especially in its worst shape) since I loathed it so much. Here you can see what it looked like when I was nearly complete unloading all of my stuff and getting ready for tear down.

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A few helping hands,a few hours of labor, and Betty (my truck) and we had her down safely.

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A little scary but all went well, the corner of the roof landed about 10” from my patio... SUCCESS!!


Now all that’s left is to finish cutting up and cleaning. The concrete company will be by as soon as I’m done to remove the garbage slab.




Okay so now that all of that’s out of the way, here’s the plan for the new garage. This place needs to be finished nice, so we can entertain larger parties and gatherings. It must have ample storage since we have no basement and our house attic space is very limited (hip roof). It needs to have enough space for me to do side work, build cars, build all of the nonsense on my honey-do list, etc.... wifey wants to park in it sometimes (yeah right) and the very last, but most important demand; it must look “cute” - according to her.

The build should be a 24wide x 30 deep x 10’ ceilings: stick built, 42” footings, 4” slab with a recessed portion for my mid rise hoist. 16x20 pad in front for parking and chalk drawing in the summer months. Attic space for storage of our ****.

I plan on using drywall for the whole thing, can lights throughout, 8’ fluorescent fixtures from the last garage will go over my work bay. And lastly, a 52” television with in ceiling speakers.


Lots of plans, you guys will to keep me held to all of that stuff!
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
I’ll be posting most everything from my phone, so bear with me if I need to correct or change photo quality/hosting etc. I always used Photobucket and we know what happened there.
 

shortykorte

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Tallahassee, Fl
Congrats on being able to start on new garage. Sounds like a good plan. One question, how will you keep place clean/orderly for get togethers and do paint & body?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
Good question, I forgot that part. I plan on splitting the room at the 15’ mark with a floor to ceiling curtain for when I’m making a mess. The shop/storage will be split also, keeping my dust to one side. I really won’t be doing any massive paint projects at home, I can use the booth at work for that. But smaller repairs or priming shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
Well made some progress today. Demo cleanup is complete (worked well into the dark so no pics), the build permit was passed and will arrive Monday. Existing footings will be removed this weekend and hopefully pouring new footings next week before Thanksgiving.

I have to pre plan where my hoist goes, as that pad will be poured with the footings. How far back should it be from the rear wall? Or really, what dimensions are considered when planning a location for a hoist?
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
586, MI
Bump. Does anyone have a good rule of thumb when it comes to space needed in front of the hoist? I’ll be having to submit my dimensions within the next couple of days. The lift I’m using is an older Rotary PAL5E that I got for free from a body shop that I worked in. It’s a parallelogram hoist that swings 17” front to back from full drop to full rise, so I’ll have to account for that.
 
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Overspray

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Oct 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
586, MI
Thanks Sublime. I guess I should rephrase the plan, I need it built before the ground freezes. The rest can be done heated.

I took last Thursday off to finish the cleanup from the demo so the concrete could be excavated Saturday.
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During cleanup, I got a call from my contractor that the city inspector had verbally approved the plot plan and would have my build permit the following Monday. So I busted my *** and got the site cleared, ran off to Menards and ordered my garage. This was from Sunday, but you can see how uneven the slab was.

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Alright, enough pictures of a slab of concrete. Friday, after I ordered the garage and custom order trusses, I received another call stating that my new plan was denied due to the front wall of the garage extending beyond the rear wall of my house. Legally all 2nd structures must be in the backyard, even though every house on my street with a detached garage does not abide by this rule. Therefore, we must redesign or file for variance.

We redesigned and are submitting new plans to the city tomorrow. The new plan is now a 26x28x10’4” building. Cross your fingers! As of now, the only update I have is our concrete was pulled today.
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I’m happy to have it gone. Now we wait for “the man”.
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
Finally started to make some progress on the build. This time of year it’s dark when I get home from work so pictures are limited.

It took a couple weeks to get all of the needed info for the city and receive the build permit. The day after it was posted on my home, we got about 10” of snow. Which was unseasonably early compared to recent years past.

Needless to say I was pretty pessimistic about getting the footings and block work done.

Turns out we had another heat wave come through and low 30s was good enough.

This was roughly halfway through the blocks.

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The panoramic skews the straight lines. Footings were dug 18x48 and there will be two rows of block. Also under the tarps is the pad for my hoist (more on that later). They wrapped up the blocks last Friday right before Christmas and the next two days we were hit with another 6-8” of snow. Currently everything is tapped and buried.

One more thing I snatched up back in Novenmber was a pallet of porcelain tile for the floor. I may or may not cut these down to help the install. I’ll decide that when the time comes.

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8x48 wood look tile, purchased on a Black Friday special for .50/sqft through a wholesaler. I think they’ll look really nice when complete.
 

shortykorte

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Sep 1, 2014
Messages
8,039
Location
Tallahassee, Fl
Progress is progress. Patience is the word of the build. Lol. Nice score on tiles. When talking to tile installer I asked about the trend with rectangular tiles. He said they do cover more area but adjustability to keep level drops drastically when setting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
Shortykorte, I agree. My brother in law recently had his kitchen done with 7x19 tiles in a random pattern, similar color. I’m thinking I may cut these in half to 8x24 and make my life a bit easier.

As of today all of my materials have been delivered, trusses dropped off this morning. We’ve been having quite a cold spell up here in MI with single digit temps and wind chill advisories/warnings. However we’re about to have a heatwave come through this weekend and the high on Sunday is 28. Time to build!
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
Well it was a good weekend/beginning of the week. We were able to wrap up the build this afternoon. I’ll tell ya, the 10’ ceilings make it feel much bigger than my last garage at 7 1/2’. Can’t wait to get it to a point where I can begin the finishing touches.

The high on Sunday was 23 degrees (at the end of the day). The crew started at 8:30am at 11 degrees and worked their asses off until around 5:30.


Building walls
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Three up!
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Front on
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And this is where we ended for day 1. Got about half of the trusses up.
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Day 2 started without me home, by the time I got home the trusses were up and had half of the roof on. I’ll spare you those pics and cut to the chase.

We’re built!
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More steps to follow. Inspections on inspections, siding, roofing, concrete etc.
 
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Overspray

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Location
586, MI
Alright everyone, I have a couple build related questions before we proceed. I know very little about the build protocol. As they were starting to sheathe the walls, I saw they were using the radiant barrier wood, barrier out. I THOUGHT that was for the roof, so I asked my contractor and he assured me it was for the walls. Now, during the build I was in and out of my house a lot, and had many other things going on so I trusted his word. Well my research has led me to know that not only did they improperly use the sheathing (supposed to be radiant in, not out) but now my roof is sheathed in standard OSB.


I plan to have them redo the roof, but my question is will it make a difference in the walls since it’s backwards? Should they redo it all or should I just worry about the roof?


2nd question is about my overhangs on the gables. I have a 12” overhang all around the roof. Obviously the trusses are set 24” OC, but the gables have no bracing currently. It is just the osb hanging off 12” and nailed to 2x6. Call me crazy, but I wouldn’t want to sit or stand on that edge... I did a zoom on this picture so you can get an idea of what I’m talking about.

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850xpeps

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Messages
1,365
Alright everyone, I have a couple build related questions before we proceed. I know very little about the build protocol. As they were starting to sheathe the walls, I saw they were using the radiant barrier wood, barrier out. I THOUGHT that was for the roof, so I asked my contractor and he assured me it was for the walls. Now, during the build I was in and out of my house a lot, and had many other things going on so I trusted his word. Well my research has led me to know that not only did they improperly use the sheathing (supposed to be radiant in, not out) but now my roof is sheathed in standard OSB.


I plan to have them redo the roof, but my question is will it make a difference in the walls since it’s backwards? Should they redo it all or should I just worry about the roof?


2nd question is about my overhangs on the gables. I have a 12” overhang all around the roof. Obviously the trusses are set 24” OC, but the gables have no bracing currently. It is just the osb hanging off 12” and nailed to 2x6. Call me crazy, but I wouldn’t want to sit or stand on that edge... I did a zoom on this picture so you can get an idea of what I’m talking about.

47_FFD1_A8-8_EED-45_B3-_AA86-793_A1_E3_C7_B8_B.jpg



I can’t answer number 1.

Number 2 answer is absolutely not. What’s wrong with your builder? There should be a gable truss set lower than the others. It will be 3.5” short measured 90 degrees to the slope. Then a “ladder” is built to carry the overhang.
 
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Overspray

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Oct 27, 2012
Messages
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Location
586, MI
I can’t answer number 1.

Number 2 answer is absolutely not. What’s wrong with your builder? There should be a gable truss set lower than the others. It will be 3.5” short measured 90 degrees to the slope. Then a “ladder” is built to carry the overhang.

Thanks 850, the trusses were pre engineered and built by Menards. Not sure if they can retrofit the overhangs or not. I’m calling today to see what can be done, I just know that it won’t pass inspection as is.
 

850xpeps

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Thanks 850, the trusses were pre engineered and built by Menards. Not sure if they can retrofit the overhangs or not. I’m calling today to see what can be done, I just know that it won’t pass inspection as is.



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You can have them cut in 2x4 on the flat to overhang like the photo. It’s not the strongest but you can also add a 2x4 to crest a T shape or L with the flat 2x4 just on the overhang part. You’ve got to be able to stand on it. Otherwise other loads like snow will sag it and also wreck your fascia.
 

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MNMike

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Jan 27, 2017
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Lino Lakes, MN
My garage kit from Menards didn't come with Gable end trusses either, we just cut 2x6's and nailed them for support.

That went up quick.

Good Luck,

Mike
 
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Overspray

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586, MI
Well after calling Menards and getting the breakdown, the gable end trusses are designed as drop trusses since I specified overhangs. What the framer did was prop them up from the bottom to match the roofline. Now they get to remove the roof sheathing to replace with the radiant barrier, and lower the end trusses to cantilever the overhangs. We’ll see how that all goes down now that the weather will turn again in a couple days.


Now my next question is about the sheathing on the gable ends. Shouldn’t the sheathing extend from the wall to the gable and cover the joint to add strength? Or will that not really matter?
 

MNMike

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Now my next question is about the sheathing on the gable ends. Shouldn’t the sheathing extend from the wall to the gable and cover the joint to add strength? Or will that not really matter?[/QUOTE]

That is what we did.
 

JAKE8842

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Oswego NY
I just built an addition on my house, and I staggered the sheathing on the gable end to cover the joint between the walls and trusses. I was always told this helps strengthen and tie them together.
I would recommend it, but not sure if it is absolutely necessary.
 

shortykorte

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Re: Overspray’s 26x28 Multipurpose Shop/Man Cave

Wow great framers you got there.
On my shop, the gable end was just like the picture, OSB hanging out on the end. As mentioned you build a ladder like frame that goes on the underside. I agree that they should reset the gable truss correctly. You’re learning quickly that some knowledge is important to get what you paid for.


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850xpeps

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Your builder is an idiot if he propped up gable end trusses. I thought maybe menarsa messed up and set all similar trusses. I know your almost done but but maybe look for someone capable that won’t screw up your building enevelope? He is either clearly inexperienced and young and part of the “I can do that I’m a carpenter ” crowd or just doesn’t care. It also looks like your trusses need some more diagonal web stiffeners added by contractor. Also looked like they had little to no temp bracing while installing trusses.

They would have had to try extra hard to get the gable trusses to line up because it’s not 3.5” vertical it’s 3.5” 90 to the top chord lol which would be like 4.5-5” ish depending on your slope.

They would be ripping the roof off the ends... not cutting up one trusses so all your sheathing laps end on it either, and resetting the gable trusses property and building a ladder. Also no inspector should be passing this type of framing. Don’t let them get away with botching that **** with some sh!tyy fix.
 
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Overspray

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586, MI
Shorty and 850, I agree. They’ll be disassembling the end trusses and removing the **** that was added. From there theyll be proper height for the cantilever structure. The the front and rear walls will get re-sheathed properly as well as the entire roof. I caught all of this before the inspector. I’m happy to have forums like this and at least a small idea of what’s going on. Thanks for everyone’s input!
 
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Overspray

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586, MI
Ok so with the overhang issue, and the overhangs being 12”, they want to just build a support system underneath instead of building the cantilever in. Will that be an issue long term? It also means they won’t be re sheathing the trusses to the walls. The other thing they want to do is put some radiant material on the inside of the plywood roof sheathing instead of replacing it .
 

850xpeps

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It would be fine support wise if nailed from the back. But what about air movement from the soffit that is now blocked on either end of the garage. No big deal if not heating and finishing the ceiling. I know it’s lots of work to fix what they messed up. But that’s not your problem. They were dumb enough to lift a gable truss and not ask why(even though a competent builder shouldn’t have to) they were a different size.

What is the purpose of the radiant sheathing?

Make him fix everything properly to what he was suppose to or keep your money and tell him to take a hike. People like that just get buy on hoping people aren’t intelligent enough or do some research to find the proper way to build.
 
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Overspray

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Joined
Oct 27, 2012
Messages
17
Location
586, MI
It would be fine support wise if nailed from the back. But what about air movement from the soffit that is now blocked on either end of the garage. No big deal if not heating and finishing the ceiling. I know it’s lots of work to fix what they messed up. But that’s not your problem. They were dumb enough to lift a gable truss and not ask why(even though a competent builder shouldn’t have to) they were a different size.

What is the purpose of the radiant sheathing?

Make him fix everything properly to what he was suppose to or keep your money and tell him to take a hike. People like that just get buy on hoping people aren’t intelligent enough or do some research to find the proper way to build.

That’s exactly what I did. They’ll be by this weekend to disassemble the end trusses, lower them, and put the 2x4s in as supports.

The radiant sheathing is probably a gimmick, but it’s meant to block heat from the sun. It’s said to keep attic temps down up to 30%... either way, I paid more per sheet for it, so they’re replacing it.
 
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