Oxy - Acetylene Welding Outfit

[TIKI II]

I have a Sears Craftsmen 2 Stage Oxy - Acetylene Welding and Cutting Outfit 9-5441 that is new in the box never used that I received as a gift 40 years ago it was made by Harris in the USA. Any concerns about using it? The hoses will be replaced as they are pretty stiff.

 

[Bigwheels]

I would use it. Deffinitely change the hoses but there are no other soft tissue components so youll be fine nice score.

 

[turbowoodworker]

I doubt that set has the back flow limiters. You should pick up a set with the new hoses.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I would use it. Deffinitely change the hoses but there are no other soft tissue components so youll be fine nice score.

There are o rings and other parts in the torch, gauges have some rubber if I'm not mistaken....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HARRIS-MOD...BASIC-REBUILD-REPAIR-KIT-AH49RK-/281068141611

40 years is enough that the soft parts may have dried up. Worst case have it rebuilt (or buy rebuild kit). I scored an old Harris set, had LWS rebuild the torch for 75 bucks.... well worth it for a good US made torch that will last me a lifetime.
Carefully test it first, my torch had a leak and I learned the hard way... scared the **** out of me, but no harm thankfully.

 

[dr_clyde]

For sure get a new hose and flashback arrestors. Ask your local welding supply if there are any seals that degrade and need to be replaced.

Otherwise should be fine.

 

[gearhead1]

My gauges had a rubber diaphragm. That’s what the spring pushes against when you adjust the pressure. Might want to check those and get a new hose like others mentioned.

Consider a ‘T’ rated hose, then you could run propane later (requires a tip change also). I use propane instead of acetylene since it’s cheaper and more available. The welding shop is only open M-F, exactly when I’m working. I don’t like taking vacation hours to get a tank filled. I can get propane at a Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot, or a gas station on a weekend.

 

[2oolhound]

^^^^^^^^^

Good point about the diaphragm gearhead1. We all bleed out the pressure on our regulators at the end of the shift but how many guys turn out the regulator pressure screw to zero pressure after that? I know a lot of people don't so what happens if the spring is still holding the diaphragm at the last setting is the diaphragm develops a hard spot where the spring contacts it at where your common pressure is set to. You should always back out the regulator pressure screw till it's loose (you can feel when it touches the spring) after bleeding the lines so nothing touches the diaphragm and it's elasticity remains even from it's edges.

I'd look over your hoses real carefully. I bought a new chi oxy/ace kit and the brand new hoses were cracking on the outer layer when I bent them. If your old ones can flex without cracking they may be better than what a lot of shops sell.

 

[TIKI II]

Thanks for the replies guy’s, The O-rings in the torch handle look fine not dried and cracked, there are check valves on the torch handle for both the gas and Oxy. The existing hose is 3/16” dia. Is there any advantage to go to ¼” for the new hose or is the hose dia. sized according to the regulator output? I did find Goodyear USA hose on E-Bay and will stop by some local shops to see what they have. I guess my main concern is the regulators I wonder if a welding shop can test them.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Thanks for the replies guy’s, The O-rings in the torch handle look fine not dried and cracked, there are check valves on the torch handle for both the gas and Oxy. The existing hose is 3/16” dia. Is there any advantage to go to ¼” for the new hose or is the hose dia. sized according to the regulator output? I did find Goodyear USA hose on E-Bay and will stop by some local shops to see what they have. I guess my main concern is the regulators I wonder if a welding shop can test them.

3/16 is my favorite hose. Diaphragms and o rings do not last 40 years. If orings are bad, gases mix early and go through wrong torch parts and cutting lever doesnt work. If diaphragms are shot, no gas comes out of the regulator outlet.

Replace them or sell set cheap on CL.

 

[bonneyman]

^^^^^^^^^

Good point about the diaphragm gearhead1. We all bleed out the pressure on our regulators at the end of the shift but how many guys turn out the regulator pressure screw to zero pressure after that? I know a lot of people don't so what happens if the spring is still holding the diaphragm at the last setting is the diaphragm develops a hard spot where the spring contacts it at where your common pressure is set to. You should always back out the regulator pressure screw till it's loose (you can feel when it touches the spring) after bleeding the lines so nothing touches the diaphragm and it's elasticity remains even from it's edges.

I'd look over your hoses real carefully. I bought a new chi oxy/ace kit and the brand new hoses were cracking on the outer layer when I bent them. If your old ones can flex without cracking they may be better than what a lot of shops sell.

Good point!

Have done your prescribed procedure since I got my own two-tank rig. Finally had the ox regulator fail after about 20 years. Sent it here for rebuilding:

http://www.billswelderrepair.com/Torch_Reg.html

 

[ALLFAST]

Also check out regulatortorchrepair.com

 

[sberry]

I have sets sti in use 40 years. Hoses too. If they are broke buy new, fire it up. Open tank valves slowly, a good habit as is standing beside vs in front. Diaphrams in many of these are actually steel. Last old reg i had went south was a little busted nylon washer, saiked the pressure north and i happened to be standing there when it happened and caught it before it got to the relief.
I don't fix every off brand, some of them are parts problems. Victors, Smith's, some Lindee, the 2 stage ones. The others are disposable and replacement is as economical as repair.

 

[sberry]

I have sets sti in use 40 years. Hoses too. If they are broke buy new, fire it up. Open tank valves slowly, a good habit as is standing beside vs in front. Diaphrams in many of these are actually steel. Last old reg i had went south was a little busted nylon washer, saiked the pressure north and i happened to be standing there when it happened and caught it before it got to the relief.
I don't fix every off brand, some of them are parts problems. Victors, Smith's, some Lindee, the 2 stage ones. The others are disposable and replacement is as economical as repair.

 

[MikeF2316]

I have a set that's nudging 50. I had to replace the orings that seal the tips to the torch body. All else is working fine.