Oxygen Sensor Wrench/Socket

[RonRock]

So I've been doing more O2 replacements lately than usual. Working on my wife and daughters cars. I'm not in business but like to have the right tool when I need it. I've gotten by with a cheapie O2 socket that I've had for some time, but there are several different designs out there.

Anybody have any input on what a guy should have for these? It seems that everybody makes one or two different types. I usually like to stay with SnapOn for specialty tools, but in reality I won't use these enough to justify the price unless they really are better that all of the rest.

What's the word on Lisle, OTC, Teckton, Harbor Freight any others?

One thing I have seen is the type with a breaker handle as part of the tool. That looks handy but not as an only one tool to have for these sensors.

 

[nafterclifen]

I used to use a socket however I've since switched to using a 22mm combo wrench and haven't looked back.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

I use the socket with the slit in it. I don't like the socket with the offset ratchet attachment.

I have also seen the dedicated o2 sensor wrench with the breaker-bar handle. Several people have said its a good tool. I'll probably pick one up for my next sensor swap.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQAYVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Ktmrider83]

That's nice..

 

[nh_yota]

It all depends how much clearance you have around the O2 sensor. Sometimes it's easier to get at it from the side with a wrench or crowfoot and other times you need a socket so you can get it from the top. I have the black OTC sensor socket with the gap in the side for the wiring harness and it works great on my Tacoma.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

This ones actually rated better:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01989Y0H2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[jsmeece]

The Performance wrench and the Neiko wrench are the same tool, just rebranded.

 

[dogdog]

This ones actually rated better:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01989Y0H2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I had PT oxygen sensor sockets broke on me and the quality look cheap in the casting... (outside it looks nice and polished)

The Performance wrench and the Neiko wrench are the same tool, just rebranded.

That I didn't know, I guess Neiko is out of my list too

 

[Michael_in_DE]

The Performance wrench and the Neiko wrench are the same tool, just rebranded.

Not true. If you look there are several differences. Handle, hinge bolt etc.

 

[jsmeece]

Not true. If you look there are several differences. Handle, hinge bolt etc.

handle same, bolt in the hinge same, based on the pictures on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01989Y0H2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQAYVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Michael_in_DE]

handle same, bolt in the hinge same, based on the pictures on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01989Y0H2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQAYVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The handles are not the same. The knurling on them are very different.

One used a flush-to-surface bolt at the hinge, the other has the bold sticking out of the bolt hole.

Similar? Yes. The same, no.

 

[jsmeece]

The handles are not the same. One has 3 rings, the other has two. One has knurling, the other doesn't have any.

One used a flush-to-surface bolt at the hinge, the other has the bold sticking out of the bolt hole.

Similar? Yes. The same, no.

Both have three knurling rings and both have black allen head screws. First Picture Neiko one, second picture Performance.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

I corrected the knurling comment, and screws are different.

I have no doubt this design has been licensed out to different manufacturers. But finishes, quality of components and assembly techniques vary from company to company.

 

[jsmeece]

"design has been licensed out", totally agree, but I would be leery of both.

 

[rlitman]

I used to use a socket however I've since switched to using a 22mm combo wrench and haven't looked back.

For removing old ones, I think you're better off snipping the wire, and using something that wraps around the hex. Either a deep socket, or a box wrench is ok, Which to use is more a question of access.

For installation, I've got a notched socket with a hex back, but the last time I did this, the combo wrench was easier. Next time, I'll probably use my Knipex plierswrench.

 

[Finky198]

I have the snap on, OEM, a HF , and an unknown impact. And I’m still missing a few styles.
The snap on spreads the least and has yet to slip on me notably heavier then anyone of the others. I have no complaints about the other 2 might want to check eBay for a snappy. I got mine used as well.

Nafterclifen is right
The 22mm and 7/8 sockets and wrenches are good to have here in the rust belt for getting a tighter fit... if I’m replacing them I usually don’t mess around with the specialty socket I just cut the plug and use a real socket on an impact or breaker bar if the space is available. And then use the special socket to install the new one.... with some proper anti seize.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

If you look at the snap-on one:

https://store.snapon.com/Sensor-Tools-Wrench-Oxygen-Sensor-Flex-Head-7-8--P891687.aspx

you will see the special designation of :


OEM
Ford®: Contour, 4.6L and 5.4L vehicles

Have a chuckle and copy: "Contour, 4.6L and 5.4L vehicles" and paste it into Amazon's site and see what comes up, and the price differences.

I guess the difference is the snap-on will actually warranty theirs.

 

[Ktmrider83]

The thing with 02 sensors is no matter what tool you use if it needs heat it needs heat..

 

[rlitman]

If you look at the snap-on one:

https://store.snapon.com/Sensor-Tools-Wrench-Oxygen-Sensor-Flex-Head-7-8--P891687.aspx

you will see the special designation of :


OEM
Ford®: Contour, 4.6L and 5.4L vehicles

Have a chuckle and copy: "Contour, 4.6L and 5.4L vehicles" and paste it into Amazon's site and see what comes up, and the price differences.

I guess the difference is the snap-on will actually warranty theirs.

There's a much bigger difference. If you look up close at Snap On flare nut (line) wrenches, you'll see that the broaching is intentionally off center. They run thinner towards the gap, and thicker towards the heel, and you can see this difference if you look closely at the picture you linked above. That is the reason that Snap On flare nut wrenches are less likely to spread, and that is why they are so highly regarded here. The competition uses the same forgings that you'd find on a box wrench, with a slot cut into it, and that style is prone to spreading.

Lots of companies try to copy the look of Snap On's tools, but few copy the important details.

If I were in the business, and if I had a job where I had to remove, and reuse an O2 sensor (if I did a lot of exhaust replacements for example), I'd seriously consider owning the Snap On O2 socket or tool. But for me, I've never had to reuse one, so I'm not going to bother spending for one.

 

[jsmeece]

WOW...that Snap-On design looks familiar...Neiko and Performance. Snap-On's version likely much stronger.

I am guessing this design is the best tool available for removing O2s on the Ford Contour, 4.6L and 5.4L vehicles, but likely not required or needed on other vehicles.

I have replaced a few O2s, been many years ago, and have done what rlitman suggested: clip wire, socket out, wrench with anti-seize back in.

 

[Wamsutta]

I might have to get the crow foot type.

I was thinking about the Snap-on SWR2

 

[dogdog]

I have the HF crowfoot and the PT crowfoot ( that POS broke) , I just got this OEM brand (OEM 25001) from Autozone. Literally 10 minutes ago. . hopefully it is better for more stubborn sensors

 

[unslow1]

I used to use a socket however I've since switched to using a 22mm combo wrench and haven't looked back.

I have the specialty sockets but never used them. I've never had to deal with one the combo wrench couldn't get.

 

[unslow1]

I have the HF crowfoot and the PT crowfoot ( that POS broke) , I just got this OEM brand (OEM 25001) from Autozone. Literally 10 minutes ago. . hopefully it is better for more stubborn sensors

I've seen this style used with a hose clamp around it for really stubborn ones. It seemed like it would keep the end from spreading.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

I've seen this style used with a hose clamp around it for really stubborn ones. It seemed like it would keep the end from spreading.

I have cranked.. and I do mean CRANKED, (I was actually turning it backwards on the sensor, tightening it instead of loosing it....hey, I was upside down and backwards using my non-dominate hand..don't judge me! )on this style and have not had a split or even a spread.

 

[RonRock]

The thing with 02 sensors is no matter what tool you use if it needs heat it needs heat..

I was wondering about that. Do you take a torch and heat the bung that the sensor is screwed into?

Those SOB's are always in the most unreachable position.

 

[Eric29]

I bought that one and found it useless for taking an O2 sensor off of my brother's silverado. It flexed so much that I thought it would break. Ended up using a O2 socket

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GQAYVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ItsNemo]

I have cranked.. and I do mean CRANKED, (I was actually turning it backwards on the sensor, tightening it instead of loosing it....hey, I was upside down and backwards using my non-dominate hand..don't judge me! )on this style and have not had a split or even a spread.

I've had sensors even with heat that had 18" ratchets on them, not budged and believe me, they start to spread pretty badly when you do that.

I was wondering about that. Do you take a torch and heat the bung that the sensor is screwed into?

Those SOB's are always in the most unreachable position.

You heat the bung red hot, ideally with an O/A torch, then put the socket on and go at it. Yes, sometimes very tricky to get the torch in the right position...really depends on the vehicle. You just can't use a torch with the tank attached, needs to have hose.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Last pair I did with a regular crowfoot flare wrench. Breaker bar straight on for driver side, 90* off for passenger sensor. I would not go for the integrated handle.

I also have a slit socket that replace the last (possibly PT) slit socket that broke.

IMO you need the style that best fits the car you are working on.

 

[rlitman]

...You just can't use a torch with the tank attached, needs to have hose.

If you've got a cutting torch, that is usually idea. Just don't use the oxygen handle. They've got six tiny O/A flames clustered like a mini rosebud, at right angles to the handle, so it fits in just about anywhere. Perfect for this kind of heating.

 

[JohnDeere1]

I have the HF crowfoot and the PT crowfoot ( that POS broke) , I just got this OEM brand (OEM 25001) from Autozone. Literally 10 minutes ago. . hopefully it is better for more stubborn sensors

I made my own with a socket and a grinder works and looks just like the pic easy to do and cheap cheap.

 

[mbshop]

If replacing then just cut wire, use proper fitting box wrench or socket. Use heat wrench if needed. In my shop we never used the proper sockets as we found they were just not effective and a pain.

 

[Yarpo]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012SCXHW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MikeF2316]

I use the socket with the slit in it. I don't like the socket with the offset ratchet attachment.

I have also seen the dedicated o2 sensor wrench with the breaker-bar handle. Several people have said its a good tool. I'll probably pick one up for my next sensor swap.

I'm the opposite. I like the offset, welded on ratchet attachment. Something about the continuous circle for strength. I do have some Denso branded slit sockets.

 

[hangfirew8]

I have this set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5ECZ4/?tag=atomicindus08-20

There is also an 8 pc set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BEM1NCM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I got the 7pc set dirt cheap with Sears SYW points and their free trial something-MAX shipping. I haven't used it yet so I can't comment beyond that, but they seem nice.

Another option is use an air hammer to chisel off the top and use a conventional socket. Of course once you've done that, you're committed. Better have the Blue Wrench (Oxy-Acetylene torch) ready for the next step.

 

[DGersic]

On my Dakota, I just cut the wires and use a socket or box end, whatever I can get access with. Last time, removing the last one, the bung torqued out of the exhaust tube. That was an expensive day.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[markw365]

I use the Mac version of that, works great on a short breaker bar or flex head ratchet.

I might have to get the crow foot type.

I was thinking about the Snap-on SWR2

 

[ADSR]

Use an air chisel..

https://www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-43900-oxygen-sensor-remover-for-use-with-air-hammer-chisel/

 

[Tonyuk]

I cut the wire off and go at it with a standard deep socket. Bit of penetrating oil and heat always helps.