Paint and primer adhesion on wood

[SteveH-CO]

I have a 1960s wooden garage door and other outdoor wood items. I usually prime the chipped/weathered areas with an oil-based primer, wait a few days, and top coat with latex house paint. When the paint inevitably peels, I notice that the primer and paint peel together off the wood. So, I have lately been painting directly on the (weathered) wood without priming first. In some cases, it has held up longer.

My question is this: what good is the careful use of oil-based primer if it peels right off the wood along with the top coat? Have I been doing it all wrong? Is there a rock-solid brand of oil (or water)-based primer that will really grab the wood?

I'm in Colorado, so while we have water issues, it's nothing like the Midwest. We do have lots of UV, however.

Thanks - Steve

 

[Jehannum]

My go-to for outdoor priming is Kilz. I'm in a similar position to you - in NM, it's not the water, but the sun that does the damage.

I've got a lot of exterior wood paneling on the house that came painted. My work flow is: hit the affected area with a pressure washer to knock off any loose bits, wait a few days for that to dry out, sand with 220 grit, then prime with Kilz, wait a few days more, and apply exterior latex over the whole thing.

 

[billconner]

Look at Mad Dog primers. Amazing tenacity. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...gQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0duXB5kE8pBL_wBv20OgYv

 

[Black300zx]

How are you cleaning and prepping the chipped areas before you apply the primer?

 

[The Cobbler]

I think it's because the oil seals the wood, where latex breathes more than oil , allowing the vapour to pass thru

 

[SteveH-CO]

The wood is fairly porous so I don't prep much before applying the primer. In some cases, the wood is slightly punky, so it can easily absorb the oil-based primer.

RE: Mad Dog primers - a premium primer might help.

I have used Sherwin Williams Peel Bonding primer (on a different project) and was amazed at how it worked on an old Tuff Shed type building with fuzzboard siding. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/primerx-peel-bonding-primer

Perhaps my solution is just to use the Sherwin Williams product on these peel-prone areas. Not sure why I didn't think of this.

 

[Bert_]

The wood is fairly porous so I don't prep much before applying the primer. In some cases, the wood is slightly punky, so it can easily absorb the oil-based primer.

This is an issue. The wood is very dry if it ***** the oil out of the primer. My method for dry wood has been to soak with boiled linseed oil, let dry, and then apply oil based primer. You need to start with something that has little or no pigment so it can penetrate the wood and give your paint something solid to stick to.

I have used Sherwin Williams Peel Bonding primer (on a different project) and was amazed at how it worked on an old Tuff Shed type building with fuzzboard siding. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/primerx-peel-bonding-primer

Perhaps my solution is just to use the Sherwin Williams product on these peel-prone areas. Not sure why I didn't think of this.

This is basically the latex version of what I said above. Notice how they advertise clear (very little pigment). My understanding is this is a great product. It has the advantage over oil base that it won't crack and alligator as it ages, oil base is NOT flexible. My only problem with it is the difficulty of finding it or anything similar.

You should cover this with a coat of regular primer for better moisture protection.

 

[speed bump]

Good primer makes a difference. On stuff like T-111 that is basically garbage I slather on peel stop primer (I like Zinsser better than SW but they both work) with a 3/4" nap roller. On better stuff I use Bullseye primer. After that put on two good coats of a good paint like a middle to upper tier BM or SW.

On the prep side get aggressive removing loose paint and wood, you need to make sure there is nowhere that water or wind can get under the new paint.

 

[pcmeiners]

If you use oil base primer, thin it and apply a light coat, at light coat is all that is needed for a top coat to adhere to. If you apply a heavy full coat, as mention it does not allow water vapor to permeate through it, resulting in blisters/peeling. As to latex primer, in most instances good luck you'll need it as all latex paints do not penetrate the surface and have little adhesion. Latex primer is OK if you have no water vapor issues.

 

[demarpaint]

If the surface has moisture in it the paint will fail exactly as you stated if primed with an oil primer. If there is no tannin bleed consider a latex exterior primer followed by a latex top coat. A dedicated primer is better than a paint with a primer built into it. Benjamin Moore makes Fresh Start Latex primer, or you can use Bullseye 123.