Painted my garage wall here in Fl. today and plan on adding a stripe as soon as dry. I'ts probably over 90 in the garage during the day and will get to the high 70s at night. High humidity and rain have been the norm down here and I'm sure it will feel dry tomorrow,but pulling the tape has me concerned. Anybody have experience with a stripe and dry time under these conditions? Oh it's a latex satin black stripe over white. The reason I ask is I have to leave next Thursday and would like to get it done before I go. Thanks
Paint dry time b4 striping
- Thread starter MJA502
- Start date
Gary S
Well-known member
The first thing I'd do is read the paint can and see what the manufacturer of the paint recommends.
djjsr
Well-known member
Frog Tape makes a tape for delicate and freshly painted surfaces. I haven't used it yet but it sounds like what you need.
This link is slow but it has more info ........
http://www.frogtape.com/Products/frogtape-delicate-surface.aspx
This link is slow but it has more info ........
http://www.frogtape.com/Products/frogtape-delicate-surface.aspx
Zeke
Well-known member
Low tack tape. A paint store will have it more likely than the Home Defect.
The only advice I can offer is Good Luck.
Rich5ltr
Well-known member
Did you do it? How did it go? Post up a picture...
I put a green stripe around mine (but used emulsion paint) so I'm into stripes!
I put a green stripe around mine (but used emulsion paint) so I'm into stripes!
Mister Moose
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 24, 2012
- Messages
- 131
Obviously, the longer you can wait the better.
There is another aspect to striping paint to consider, depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Tape thickness. The thicker the tape, the thicker the ridge will be, and the more obvious the raised edge is. 3M makes a series of "Fine Line" tapes for this purpose. There are also vinyl based tapes that stretch to curves better, and easy release tapes for recent coatings as you describe. If you have painted brick or concrete, the vinyl tape will conform far better. I always figure at least 30 days for a paint to fully cure. Do not underestimate the ability of fresh paint to come off with masking tape, especially cheap tapes or those left on for several days.
The easy release tapes won't give as crisp an edge, and have zero stretch. They do release easy if they don't get UV exposure. DO NOT leave tapes on in the sun for more than a few hours, unless it is specifically an outdoor UV rated tape. The yellow tape practically melts before you eyes in the sun.
After applying, run your finger along the edges of the tape to help seal the edge.
It is also important to time the tape pulling correctly. Too soon, and you can tear the new paint film. Try a little at a time initially, and go slow. If the paint tears, come back tomorrow. The angle at which you pull is also a factor.
2 coats max on a length of tape unless you want both a thick edge and tearing. Some guys I know will do 3-5 coats on a tape, and then razor blade the edge. Each to his own, but that takes some skills to do right, and you are leaving a path for moisture to get under the paint.
These days you can spend $30 on just a single roll of masking tape, but if it solves your problem, it's worth it. Some of this is a little overkill for a garage indoors in dim light, but hey, you asked.
There is another aspect to striping paint to consider, depending on how much of a perfectionist you are. Tape thickness. The thicker the tape, the thicker the ridge will be, and the more obvious the raised edge is. 3M makes a series of "Fine Line" tapes for this purpose. There are also vinyl based tapes that stretch to curves better, and easy release tapes for recent coatings as you describe. If you have painted brick or concrete, the vinyl tape will conform far better. I always figure at least 30 days for a paint to fully cure. Do not underestimate the ability of fresh paint to come off with masking tape, especially cheap tapes or those left on for several days.
The easy release tapes won't give as crisp an edge, and have zero stretch. They do release easy if they don't get UV exposure. DO NOT leave tapes on in the sun for more than a few hours, unless it is specifically an outdoor UV rated tape. The yellow tape practically melts before you eyes in the sun.
After applying, run your finger along the edges of the tape to help seal the edge.
It is also important to time the tape pulling correctly. Too soon, and you can tear the new paint film. Try a little at a time initially, and go slow. If the paint tears, come back tomorrow. The angle at which you pull is also a factor.
2 coats max on a length of tape unless you want both a thick edge and tearing. Some guys I know will do 3-5 coats on a tape, and then razor blade the edge. Each to his own, but that takes some skills to do right, and you are leaving a path for moisture to get under the paint.
These days you can spend $30 on just a single roll of masking tape, but if it solves your problem, it's worth it. Some of this is a little overkill for a garage indoors in dim light, but hey, you asked.
mmanship
Member
I waited for the wall paint to dry a few days and all the tips above are right on. I was scared I was going to foul up my new garage walls. But it worked out. I painted bright red stripe over a grey wall. I did one wall at a time so the tape wouldn't be on the wall any longer than necessary. I taped the line, used a curved tool to push just the edge down tight, rolled on the stripe and immediately came back and gave it the second coat then immediately pulled off the tape. Worked great. I did have some outside corners around a closet that sticks out and the bathroom that sticks out. Those corners had a lot of drywall mud on them. The tape did pull some wall paint off there. I just touched it up and all is well. You might want to check out my stripe in my photo album
darkk
Well-known member
I'm just going to buy a roll of vinyl striping tape from here in the width I decide on...http://www.lettersunlimited.com/
Thanks to everyone for the replies. My plan was to get up this am and paint the stripe. After reading replies and a little ( well,a lot) more searching I've decided to play it safe and wait till next month when I return to Fl. To do the stripe. Sometimes patients is hard to exercise . Will post pics when complete.
Rich5ltr
Well-known member
I guess they are too lazy?
The Frisco Kid
Well-known member
this is the only way I have ever been able to get lines to work properly, although all of my walls (old house and new) have significant texture.
TerryHodge
New member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2012
- Messages
- 3
I think you should try blue and white strips... Will look cool
buening
Well-known member
Skip the Frog Tape and do as NXGTS mentions. I was being lazy with my stripes and figured I'd use the frog tape instead of my method as mentioned, and even using a sponge on the frog tape the paint still leaked under the tape. For the second stripe I used my normal method and they are clean and crisp.
I'd wait at least 2 days before striping. With the heat you will notice the paint will still be tacky after a day, even though it is technically dry.
I'd wait at least 2 days before striping. With the heat you will notice the paint will still be tacky after a day, even though it is technically dry.
kartracer23
Well-known member
Any thoughts on this?
First of all, we're on coat 3 of the red and it's still not 'even' We have grey bottom / white top and it's very obvious where the grey stopped and white started. It's Glidden paint (with a built in primer, no less!). We back painted the tape before starting, so I'm not too worried about stuff leaking under, but now my issue is that the paint is about as thick as the tape - if not thicker. I assume I'll have to razor blade the tape / paint line, but any thoughts on evening out the color? It seems like it evens it out a bit with each coat, but still very evident.
First of all, we're on coat 3 of the red and it's still not 'even' We have grey bottom / white top and it's very obvious where the grey stopped and white started. It's Glidden paint (with a built in primer, no less!). We back painted the tape before starting, so I'm not too worried about stuff leaking under, but now my issue is that the paint is about as thick as the tape - if not thicker. I assume I'll have to razor blade the tape / paint line, but any thoughts on evening out the color? It seems like it evens it out a bit with each coat, but still very evident.