Paint for restoring a vise?

[CoconutPete]

I all of a sudden felt bad for my Wilton this weekend, so I took it off the bench and started stripping it.

I'd like to paint it a medium-to-dark blue.

Any advice on first of all what paint to use, but also where to get it? When I was a kid we would use oil based paint and brush it on if it had to be hard as a rock. These days oil based paints seem to be like contraband if you go to big box stores, I I was hoping to be able to order it somewhere.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

I would use an implement paint commonly sold at TSC. If you buy it in a pint can you can add hardener to spray.

 

[CoconutPete]

Brushing would be my preference I think.

TSC seems to be real finnicky with shipping and none of it is available near me.

I did find this though:

Amazon.com

I keep finding these DIY's with people using spray cans. Does that stuff really last? this thing is going to get hit by all sorts of stuff during usage...

 

[catalytic]

A 'pro' paint job would mean full paint prep/stripped to bare metal, washed with paint prep/acetone, then 2k epoxy primer, then 2k top coat like Imron. The 2k part means isocyanates usually, which are probably the worst things in any shop, health-wise, and very dangerous. I have done it, and it does make for super durable paint. You can get 2k paints in a spray can from Eastwood and USC SprayMax, and also any good paint store like FinishMaster or PPG will put whatever paint you want in a spray bomb (those have 2 bladders inside that you break when you open the can, then you have a day or so to use the paint before it hardens). Last time I did this, I used a 2k epoxy primer-in-a-can from SprayMax (sold on Amazon and at paint shops), followed by a few coats of Imron shot out of my friend's paint system. Cost was a little under $100 for primer, paint, thinner, etc, and that was more than enough to do a small milling machine (drill press-sized).

I'm restoring a belt grinder right now, and I came across this Car-Rep spray can paint, which is a true 2k paint, but epoxy-based, and also is designed for direct-to-metal:

Amazon.com

Comes in black, white, grey, gloss and matte. I'm almost done stripping, paint-prepping, and roughing with 300 grit, and going to try the matte black this week. I expect it will be significantly more durable than any 1k paint you can buy, though again there are health risks---I'll have full PPE and a good 3M respirator and I'll be shooting outdoors in the open air. $30ish for a full 2k paint job will be great if it works, and also save time on the primer steps.

 

[RUSH55]

If you’re mentioning Imron, I might suggest Acrolon, which is an industrial single stage acrylic urethane produced by Sherwin-Williams.

https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/content/dam/pcg/sherwin-williams/protective-marine/na/us/en-us/pdfs/marketing-uploads/Protective_Marine_System_4000_Color_Card.pdf

Any of Sherwin-Williams color codes from their chart can be mixed in the Acrolon

Paint Colors by Family - Sherwin-Williams

Experience Sherwin-Williams paint and stain colors by family or collection to find your made-for-you shade. More than 1,700 paint colors to explore.

www.sherwin-williams.com

 

[Radio Flyer]

I tend to use/abuse my vise. It's an old Chas Parker that was pulled from the dumpster.

I hit it every now and then with some grey engine enamel that was left over from another job. seems to work well enough and is resistant to grease and oil. Touch ups are easy, shake and spray.

 

[RUSH55]

Not sure why, but this color keeps coming to mind for an old vise. Is it Wilton that had a similar color or is it just me?

Have to say I really like the look of oiled bare iron as well.

 

[exmaxima1]

Not sure why, but this color keeps coming to mind for an old vise. Is it Wilton that had a similar color or is it just me?

Have to say I really like the look of oiled bare iron as well.

Agreed. I've painted at least 50 vises, but the one I actually use is just oiled. It will get painted if I ever sell it, but oiled does the job for me.

 

[RUSH55]

oiled does the job for me.

Especially on an old Wilton

 

[Brandon_Lutz]

I've been using Rustoleum Universal on the last couple of vises that I've restored. It's an oil based paint. So far I've only seen it in spray cans but it may be available in a regular can as well. Both Lowes and Home Depot carry it and they do have a couple shades of blue available.

 

[DuluthMachineWorks]

I've used Sherwin-Williams all surface enamel for my tools. I prep with bondo or similar, high build auto primer, then paint. Thin with a little bit of penetrol so it levels well, brush on with a china bristle brush, and then bake it on in front of the heater for a week or so. It might hold up better with some hardener, but I've found that having the paint a little soft means it doesn't chip like a hard paint would. It's easy to touch up too.

 

[964haus]

Especially on an old Wilton

What oil do you use?

 

[RUSH55]

What oil do you use?

Been using either boiled linseed or Fluid Film. I have an odd attraction to the scent of both of those…

 

[paulsomlo]

Agreed. I've painted at least 50 vises, but the one I actually use is just oiled. It will get painted if I ever sell it, but oiled does the job for me.

The best paint is no paint - rub it down with WD-40.

 

[seber]

Rustoleum is the only spray can I know for sure is oil based and not all of those. Painters choice is and one other that I can't think of at the moment. If you want one that will come off when you look at it crooked, try Krylon.

 

[Firebrick43]

The best paint is no paint - rub it down with WD-40.

WD 40 Is the worst rust preventative. Multiple test have shown that it has little to no long term rust prevention.

 

[CHRIII]

I renewed my father's vise. I cleaned it, used EvaproRust to remove the rust, and lightly wire wheeled it, and polished the 'shiny' parts. I thought about painting it, but decided not to. I put multiple thin coats of boiled linseed oil (BLO) on it and allowed each coat to dry completely (in the sun). Here's a link to the result.

 

[RUSH55]

@CHRIII , your Reed turned out awesome! Great work

 

[CHRIII]

@CHRIII , your Reed turned out awesome! Great work

RUSH, Thanks for the compliment! I was pleased with the results.

 

[CoconutPete]

Thanks for all the feedback. I picked up some blue oil based lacquer which I brushed on. It looks good so far and after 2 more coats I bet it'll look great.

One additional question: what did you guys do for painting the letters? Tiny brush? q-tip? Something else? toothpick? I have white paint, just not sure of the best tool for painting the raised letters.

 

[ZRX61]

It's a vise.... Use rattlecan Rustoleum.

As for the letters, fold up a papertowel until it's about the size of a tampon, dip the folded end in the paint & dab the letters with it. (actual tampons won't work)

 

[ZRX61]

Actually, now I think about it, tampons might work if you only push it maybe 1/16in out of the launcher... so it kinda acts like a stenciling brush.

 

[CoconutPete]

Actually, now I think about it, tampons might work if you only push it maybe 1/16in out of the launcher... so it kinda acts like a stenciling brush.

Ha! Is that really what it's called? The launcher!

 

[CoconutPete]

Not so bad.

 

[Thirdyfivepickup]

Not so bad.

Looks great! I know its only been a week but how does it wear? That's about the color I'm planning on painting my Wilton when I restore it. And what paint did you use? I was looking to maybe use Rustoleum and brush it on.

 

[CoconutPete]

Looks great! I know its only been a week but how does it wear? That's about the color I'm planning on painting my Wilton when I restore it. And what paint did you use? I was looking to maybe use Rustoleum and brush it on.

I have been sort of careful around it - in order to give the paint more time to harden, so I actually haven't whacked it with anything accidentally yet - so no scratches.

Luckily I had new lowering springs for my Sunday car so the vice wasn't required for that project....

 

[fishwatcher]

I've been using Rustoleum Universal on the last couple of vises that I've restored. It's an oil based paint. So far I've only seen it in spray cans but it may be available in a regular can as well. Both Lowes and Home Depot carry it and they do have a couple shades of blue available.

What did you prep with before using the Rustoleum Universal spray? Did you use another primer before? Or just rely on the built in primer? Thanks.

 

[Tynee]

Looks good to me. Got any pics of the product can? I could use something like this for a project I'm on.

 

[JradM]

I'm restoring a Wilton too. Youtube has me convinced Hammerite is the only suitable option.

I haven't got to the paint stage so I can't comment on it yet, but I sure do like the look of the paint jobs I've seen. Fingers crossed it holds up.

 

[bb29510]

bought a new yost last , was my present to me, They come bright red. mine already twelve different color. miight just go to the shed and smack it with a hammer, its a vice, that what its made for..... to beat around and paint , twenty different colors

 

[bb29510]

i know where a ridgid usa vice is for $50

 

[Brandon_Lutz]

What did you prep with before using the Rustoleum Universal spray? Did you use another primer before? Or just rely on the built in primer? Thanks.

I did a deep clean in my sonic cleaner and then stripped everything with Citristrip. Then cleaned with soap and water, wiped down with Isopropyl alcohol, shot it with self etching primer then put the Rustoleum Universal on top.

 

[DIY_Guy79]

I'd get Rustoleum Hammertone paint. It's good tough paint and relatively inexpensive as opposed to ordering something special. And its probably readily available anywhere that carries the brand. Might be worth testing it on a small piece of scrap to see how well it would take a coat of Minwax Polycrylic over it for extra protection.

Well nevermind just seen this is an old thread lol. My bad.

 

[MongoTA]

I'm also in the camp of preferring bare metal. I fully understand it's a personal preference. I use Penetrol, the paint additive. Use it on a lot on my metal projects and on some old iron. Anvils, vises, things I fabricate. Air dries in about half the time of BLO.

 

[ZRX61]

I'm restoring a Wilton too. Youtube has me convinced Hammerite is the only suitable option.

I haven't got to the paint stage so I can't comment on it yet, but I sure do like the look of the paint jobs I've seen. Fingers crossed it holds up.

Just go stand in front of the paint prison at Lowes until something says "yup, that's the color I want"

 

[F-22]

You could have it powder coated (just have to mask the slide). Other than that, I wouldn't compicate too much, if you'll use it, it will end up dinged up...

For brushed application, the hammerite hammered effect works great and leaves a nice surface finish.

 

[fishwatcher]

I tend to use/abuse my vise. It's an old Chas Parker that was pulled from the dumpster.

I hit it every now and then with some grey engine enamel that was left over from another job. seems to work well enough and is resistant to grease and oil. Touch ups are easy, shake and spray.

After a vise is painted, let’s say you want to touch it up with the same paint you used for the restore weeks, months or years later. Assume grease, wax or other impurities have gotten onto the paint.

What prep is needed? Wipe down with alcohol? Mineral spirits? Full blown acetone? Need to lightly sand the parts you’ll hit up with new (but same) paint?

My recent restore is close in color to the OP’s and since this vise paint thread came up in search, I thought it would be related enough to ask about touch ups here.

Thanks!

 

[fishwatcher]

Touching up means different things to different people. To get it to look really good again, I think you will have to respray the whole thing. I have seen guys cut a hole in a sheet of cardboard and spray through that onto the target. I’ve never done that. I would certainly practice a lot before doing an important job.

Touching up a scratch will still leave the scratch unless you use filler and sand it smooth. If that’s OK, then go for it. The color of paint and gloss level changes over time and useage. That won’t exactly match.

Thanks @Shiftless. I took a lot more care with the original re-paint. When I decided to touch up a few parts (too light in a few areas), I realized the additional layer of new paint didn't go on in a very matched way over the 4 week old paint. I'm wondering, if I don't take the paint off, would re-taping bare parts, using mineral spirits to clean, and respraying the whole vise be a bad idea?

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks @Shiftless. I took a lot more care with the original re-paint. When I decided to touch up a few parts (too light in a few areas), I realized the additional layer of new paint didn't go on in a very matched way over the 4 week old paint. I'm wondering, if I don't take the paint off, would re-taping bare parts, using mineral spirits to clean, and respraying the whole vise be a bad idea?

That would work fine. If there are any rough spots, now would be a good time to refine the surface before re spraying. I like to use a fine sanding sponge.

 

[AreBeeBee]

I have a Chinese-made but licensed Wilton 4-inch (not a bullet style) that had a crummy paint job when I got it. I took it apart, stripped off the paint, and used Rustoleum's Verde Green as a rattlecan substitute for Wilton's own color. (Little did I know at the time how rare Verde Green would become...) The color is not true Wilton, but it looks OK to me.

A little later I picked up a 5-inch Craftsman made by Columbian that looked like it had joined the Navy. The trademark red was overpainted by what looked like haze gray. So I stripped that one down to bare metal and was pondering how to paint it. After a short while I decided I liked the bare metal look, so I gave it a coat of shellac, and that's how it is today.

I will say that if you're using a vise, it won't stay pretty and unmarked for very long. This is just life in the shop. So I don't think it's worth spending a lot of money or time unless you're prepared to live with the inevitable scuffs and scars.

Below: the Wilton after painting, the Craftsman/Columbian as found, and after shellac.