Paint my bandsaw or not?

[brianpgriset]

I picked up a very dirty but complete Johnson model B bandsaw on CL. Pulled it all apart and started scraping and wiping down parts to prep for paint. As I've been progressing I've found the paint beneath the crud in decent shape (for a saw made in 1957).

So should I keep the original paint and leave it with a nice industrial uh... patina, or paint it the always reliable gray?

Cleaned up saw bed

Other crummy parts still needing cleaned

 

[billybudge]

Its a great looking piece of kit. and it is nice to keep something as original as possible. however I am a obsessive restorer and strive to bring tooling into the next century,, and if i wanted to see something old, i would go to a museum, haha, I would not even think twice about getting a new paint job on that one, go for it, pimp it right up, personally for me I,m a red gloss freak, go on, do it,

 

[Tim338]

I would not paint it. I like patina as long as its not really rusty. Its only original once.

 

[astroracer]

Build a new frame for it to get to a comfortable working hgt. My saw is from 1977 and is still going strong. Raising it up sure did make my back happy!

 

[PCO6]

... So should I keep the original paint and leave it with a nice industrial uh... patina, or paint it the always reliable gray?

I went from the original green to "reliable gray". I had to paint the stand I made so it seemed to make sense.

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[ADSR]

paint it!

 

[Steinmetz]

I picked up a very dirty but complete Johnson model B bandsaw on CL. Pulled it all apart and started scraping and wiping down parts to prep for paint. As I've been progressing I've found the paint beneath the crud in decent shape (for a saw made in 1957).

So should I keep the original paint and leave it with a nice industrial uh... patina, or paint it the always reliable gray?

Cleaned up saw bed

Other crummy parts still needing cleaned

New paint will not improve the function of the machine at all. You should concentrate on replacing/renewing the functional elements such as bearings, etc. in my opinion. New paint is the old trick made popular by used car dealers.

 

[brianpgriset]

New paint will not improve the function of the machine at all. You should concentrate on replacing/renewing the functional elements such as bearings, etc. in my opinion. New paint is the old trick made popular by used car dealers.

Don't worry, plan was to ensure good functionality all the way, paint might just be the icing on the cake (or not).

 

[gus1962]

You're on the way of retrofitting the band saw so painting should be on the list.

 

[PugetDude]

Valueof the saw is probably the same either way; if you have already have a machinery color scheme going in your shop, then paint it to match. If you don't, save your time and money and leave it green.

 

[firecracker]

Paint it man, I painted the stand on mine as close to the original as pos. the rest I cleaned but think I'll have to do that in a while to get it looking cool.

 

[fatfillup]

If you have the time and patience, paint it. If you are like me (and you probably aren't because i would have never disassembled it) slap that puppy together and start cutting stuff!!

 

[brianpgriset]

Paint it is, I was to worried about rust.

 

[ADSR]

Paint it is, I was to worried about rust.

Industrial gray. She looks good, buddy

 

[OccupantRJ]

I went from the original green to "reliable gray". I had to paint the stand I made so it seemed to make sense.

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I saw a saw, but the saw I saw, was the saw that got sawed in two!

 

[mrbreezeet1]

paint it!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This

 

[PCO6]

I saw a saw, but the saw I saw, was the saw that got sawed in two!

The hard part was putting it in my other saw so I could saw it in half.

 

[ez-duzit]

There is a certain cachet to keeping a machine's paint original. Even if it has seen some previous "restoration."

My ancient milling machine came to me with a heavy, bomb-proof layer of baked on cutting oil and metal chips. Before/after.

 

[gus1962]

The saw looks good with new paint. Is it up and running already?

 

[brianpgriset]

Still in the works. Almost everything is painted except the sheet metal and motor.

I just finished pulling apart, cleaning, and reassembling the gearbox. For the greater internet good, I thought I'd post info on the two oil seals on the gearbox, as I had to do a decent bit of research to find them.

Oil seals for a Johnson model B bandsaw:

Input shaft - Garlock Klosure 94x7198 (1.850" bore x 0.781" shaft x 0.375" width)

Output shaft - National 482090 (1.850" bore x 0.968" shaft x 0.3125" width)

Now here is the kicker, even the 482090 National is listed in Timken's master seal catalog non of my local vendors could "find" it. I substituted a a National 482309 which has the same bore and shaft size, but is just 1/16" wider which appears to be no issue.

Hopefully with this now on the net no one will have to search around as much as I did.

 

[brianpgriset]

Finally starting to look like a bandsaw!

Just need to freshen up motor, guides, hydraulic cylinder, and sheet metal. I added the wheels and handle on the front.

 

[brianpgriset]

Finally.

Still needs a few odds and ends, but it's basically done. Also need to go over all the adjustments real good.

Even cuts metal!

Now for a question, this has no miter gauges or anything, so go set it at any angle will take some time. Anyone have a suggestion for setting up some sort of miter gauge or stop so can quickly get back to 90 degrees? I was thinking maybe a tapered hole with a pin like a swivel jaw vise, or maybe just a bracket on the backside with a set screw to fine tune it?

 

[PCO6]

brianpgriset - This won't help you for angled end cuts on long pieces of stock but a plate with threaded holes and clamps works well for angle cuts on small items.

 

[brianpgriset]

brianpgriset - This won't help you for angled end cuts on long pieces of stock but a plate with threaded holes and clamps works well for angle cuts on small items.

Excellent idea. I already have studs and hold down clamps too. I'll be getting one of those made up for sure.

 

[454ragtop]

I scribed a line to reset the swivel jaw, but a tapered pin would be even better, I think. Great job on the saw. I still have one listed in the classifieds if anyone is looking.
Jim

 

[brianpgriset]

The only other thing I could think of is an adjustable stop that would **** up against the back of the swivel jaw but I'd think that would only help with 90 degree cuts.

The scribed line is for sure easy but makes me worried I'd still set it wrong.

How would one machine a tapered pin setup? With only basic shop tools?

 

[454ragtop]

They sell tapered pins and matching reamers, but may not be cost effective for a one shot deal.

 

[brianpgriset]

I'll take a look around but sounds like a scribed line is the way to go.