paint prep

[1930artdeco]

Hi Folks,

Well the next project is getting closer. So what is the best way to strip the rust off of the cabinet. I have a palm sander and a 4" angle grinder. The rust is not to heavy, namely because the things was primed with military grade primer. then I am thinking Phosphoric acid prep and then shoot it with a good primer. I am leaning towards Rustoleum paint.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[Kaizen]

Think I’d start with 120 or 180 on the palm sander to see what it does. Maybe even 220 to see how fast it clogs. Then get more aggressive with sanding or a 3m paint strip pad.


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[jimgood]

Angle grinder with wire brush for places where there are joints or bends in the metal.

For the main surfaces, I like these. They make quick work of paint and rust. Keep it moving to avoid heat concetration: https://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.c...ked-t27-clean-strip-disc-black-coarse-cs4-crs

Edit: Oh, and for corners where the round discs won't reach, I like the multi-tool with a triangular sanding pad like this:
https://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-63113.html

 

[TimeWarpF100]

At least all edges and corners I would get a good media and blast it. Minutes vs hours in time. Sand smooth open areas.


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[1930artdeco]

Blasting would be ideal but I don't have access to something that big. Thanks for the tips so far. I had forgotten that I have one of Dremel triangle sander thingies.

Mike

 

[d.mcfarland]

To be honest, if you disassembled it and found a local person/business that does blasting, the cost isn't terrible at all. Around here you can get 4 wheels blasted for $100, so I would say that would be similar to that cabinet.

For paint, I highly discourage Rustoleum.

If you are down to bare metal, I'd go:

Etching Primer, Sandable primer (then sand lightly), color coats, then finally clear coat.

You'll be happy with the results, trust me.

 

[1930artdeco]

The reason I suggested Rustoleum is that I like how the paint goes on from their cans. I am open to other brands though. I stopped in at Kelly-Moore and they have paint designed for metal but it's about $70 a gallon and I need two colors. The main cabinet will be blue with the doors and drawers being orange. I just didn't think I could justify 2 gallons of paint when I need just a quart of orange. It may end up being that I have to get 2 gallons though. Other thoughts will be appreciated.

Mike

 

[y'sguy]

I would also vote to find a blaster. Preferably a slurry blaster or liquid /glass blaster. It does not heat the metal and won't warp. You will be surprised at how many hours you can wrap up in getting that metal clean enough to paint. You can see on my toolbox thread what I did and happy with the outcome. Has to be the way to go in CA, I would guess.

 

[don long]

If it were my project and I was planning to sand the cabinet down I'd use an 80 grit paper on my D.A. and lock it into grinding mode.
I like to get aggressive in the beginning them smooth out the rougher cuts with finer paper

 

[1930artdeco]

Following Y'sguy's advice I found a blaster (water/glass). However, they want $$$ to blast it since it falls below their minimum size. But I may have to do it due to time constraints. Now I have to decide on a paint manufacturer, any recommendations?

Mike

 

[Marctrees]

1930 - To clarify - You want paint in rattle cans, or bulk paint ?

You will be sooo happy you decided to get it blasted.


Just MAKE SURE they know how to do sheet metal w/o warping it.

And if the blasting uses water, how does one prevent flash surface rust ?

Seems to me needs to be treated immediately ?

Marc

 

[1930artdeco]

I am going to use my Critter gun since it is such a small project. So, I will be using bulk paint in this case. As far as flash rust I will have to prime it up fast.

Mike

 

[Marctrees]

I also have a Critter.

Have never used it for final finish paint.

Are you sure it will work out ?

Marc

 

[y'sguy]

I am going to use my Critter gun since it is such a small project. So, I will be using bulk paint in this case. As far as flash rust I will have to prime it up fast.

Mike

My blaster guy used a rust inhibitor as part of his deal. Otherwise. yes it will begin to rust almost immediately. You don't want to touch it with your bare hands. I've have never heard of a critter gun till now so I looked it up. It is a syphon process paintgun. I would practice with it to get used to how it will function with that paint material. I might also recommend a Preval paint setup for that size job, altho I think I prefer a spraygun, if one has a compressor to handle it. Honestly I think if you could find the color you needed for that, I wouldn't be afraid to shoot it with rattle cans.

 

[y'sguy]

I am curious as to what the blasters price for that was? Care to share?
As Don long said a 80 grit DA would get it done, you just have to be able to have a compressor that will keep up! Don certainly does and all the other tools and experience as well.

 

[HMCFab9]

At least all edges and corners I would get a good media and blast it. Minutes vs hours in time. Sand smooth open areas.
QUOTE]


I agree ^ definitely have it blasted.
For all the time you'd diddle away trying to sand it decent, blasting would be paid for.

Personally I think it would look good in a hammered / hammertone finish.

 

[1930artdeco]

Y, they want 450 as it was below their minimum size. I am going to call them as I have other things that needs done as well.

Mike

 

[y'sguy]

Y, they want 450 as it was below their minimum size. I am going to call them as I have other things that needs done as well.

Mike

Yikes!, that's way more than I paid. at 185+ rust coating afterwards. So I get your hesitation. Maybe there is others in your area, My guy was just a single operator out of his farm area outside of town.

Also remember this, not everything needs to brought back to brand new, some items are better just cleaned up and clear coated as an example. Look up some of the work that Private Lugnutz has chosen to do on some of his finds.
There is a good reason you may not see as many high end restorations of items these days. Lots of material, time and money go into them because of the ever increasing cost of the material, paint etc, even high grades of sandpaper mount up fast.
An 80 grit sander will do it it will take time but if you do a piece or section at a time it won't get so monotonous. hang in there, it can look cool. I used a blue metalflake that was in rattle cans that would look great on that I think. You also might try painting a drawer with Hammertone or a satin finish paint and see how you like it. It might just be the thing.

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[Rick B.]

Blasting is the way to go. It give the primer a good surface to stick to so the paint doesn't slide off. Remember that the finish is in the prep.

 

[Rick B.]

I used a blue metalflake that was in rattle cans that would look great on that I think. You also might try painting a drawer with Hammertone or a satin finish paint and see how you like it. It might just be the thing.

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I rattle canned one of my motorcycles with that same color blue. Came out great.

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[gahrajmahal]

It all comes down to cost. If you don’t want much money in the job you will have to sand it down yourself. Don Long’s method is the old body man method (sorry for the “old” reference). Everyone else is correct in saying to get it blasted or dipped will meet your “best” criteria, but may cost a ton since you are in California. I’m surprised you can still buy spray paint and rustoleum there. I would not hesitate to use the water based auto finishes your state requires body shops to use. Or you could always get it powder coated.

 

[ZRX61]

First thing I'd do is get a quote from the local powder coat place..

 

[don long]

It all comes down to cost. If you don’t want much money in the job you will have to sand it down yourself. Don Long’s method is the old body man method (sorry for the “old” reference).

You're surely not calling me old fashioned are you.
I certainly agree with the idea of sandblasting the box for speed and powder coating for durability but cost may inter into the equation and if so then a little more time and labor is the answer.
I sand blast most of my restorations and I built my own blasting room for that purpose but not everyone has that option

Good luck with what ever you decide

 

[BTL-A4]

What if you just sanded and painted over the old paint? If it's "industrial grade" primer, it's probably good; just rough it up and paint over it. Fill in any low spots with body filler.

I used a Harbor Freight media blaster. I just do it in the yard and sweep up the mess after. I don't get it all, but it's not expensive. I didn't have any trouble with metal warping, since the HF gun doesn't work very well and is slow. I also used a big cardboard box I had to put the items I was blasting inside. It helped keep the mess down. Your cabinet is rather large, so you'd need a really big box, but maybe get a washing machine box or something. Bike shops have big boxes you could tape together.

This is the one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
$30 less 20%. Media is about $40 less 20%.

Automotive paint might work. I was able to get mine is quarts and even pints. It wasn't water-based, either. I used the $69 HF spray gun and it worked fine.

 

[astroracer]

I use Rustoleum Hammered paint all the time. Spray bombs and bulk. Sprayed a chassis I am building with silver hammered and added some enamel hardener in the mix. Sprays great and is rock hard in an hour.

All of the suspension and rear end are painted with Rustoleum as well...

Many shades of gray here.

The engine block is Rustoleum Hammered also.

Mark