diovol
Well-known member
just wondering guys are you using anything on your wooden workbenchs as far as sealer, primer or even paint.....
paint/prime or nothing at all
- Thread starter diovol
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Zeke
Well-known member
A sealer is always a good idea and most sealers are just watered down clear finish, oil or water based. You probably have something right there on your shelf.
For a little more protection, use a thin clear coat or some more "sealer." Some deck products may be a good choice as well.
Paint and varnish chip. Frankly, I like to cover the wood with metal or high pressure laminate. Unless it's in the wood shop.
For a little more protection, use a thin clear coat or some more "sealer." Some deck products may be a good choice as well.
Paint and varnish chip. Frankly, I like to cover the wood with metal or high pressure laminate. Unless it's in the wood shop.
I've got one bench covered with just sealer (it's cabinet-type plywood, doubled up). It doesn't resist welding/grinding marks very well and looks a lot less clean nowadays than it did when I finished it. Still, it brought out a nice color in the wood. It's on the right in this picture:
I have three benches that have been stained with a semi-opaque stain and finished with several coats of marine varnish. This holds up pretty well, but still can get scratched down to bare wood. So I have bench mats on these to protect the most-used parts of the working surface.
And it's not wood, but I recently used a semigloss enamel on a steel bench/counter surface. It's pretty cool looking -- almost like leather when you see it in person -- but because it doesn't have a high gloss on it, I suspect it will show light scratches as it wears.
The advantage to primer or paint is that you can hit the whole surface with a new coat any time you want and instantly have a new-looking bench. With stains or sealers, it won't be as simple.
I have three benches that have been stained with a semi-opaque stain and finished with several coats of marine varnish. This holds up pretty well, but still can get scratched down to bare wood. So I have bench mats on these to protect the most-used parts of the working surface.
And it's not wood, but I recently used a semigloss enamel on a steel bench/counter surface. It's pretty cool looking -- almost like leather when you see it in person -- but because it doesn't have a high gloss on it, I suspect it will show light scratches as it wears.
The advantage to primer or paint is that you can hit the whole surface with a new coat any time you want and instantly have a new-looking bench. With stains or sealers, it won't be as simple.
JC23
Well-known member
What everyone said above...
One of the reasons for putting something on wood is to reduce the chances of mold and mildew. That will vary with location. As you are in the Great Lakes, you hit both ends of the thermometer and that promotes mold. I try to keep any fixture in mine painted.
One of the reasons for putting something on wood is to reduce the chances of mold and mildew. That will vary with location. As you are in the Great Lakes, you hit both ends of the thermometer and that promotes mold. I try to keep any fixture in mine painted.
Falcon67
Well-known member
I use a gray garage floor paint (that I would not really use on a floor because its not epoxy) or porch paint on top of plywood. I use two coats, no primer. My thinking is that if it gets stained enough, I can repaint (never happens) and when the top gets chewed up enough it get's flipped and painted or turned into a shelf somewhere (12 years, not yet). From a practical standpoint, a top like that holds up well and is not very expensive. I painted the MDF tops on the Craftsman 48" benches to and that is holding up well. If you do things like transmission work or engine work, then a decent top covered with metal works well for that. I have beat the hell out of the main work bench and never seen the paint chip . If I have the can still I'll look, but I think it's an oil base. It has not peeled and has put up with trans fluid and various chemicals. You can strip it with Berrymans B-12, but I can strip car paint with that too. The criteria was really whatever was gray and cheap at Lowes by the quart.
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Chris Adams
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- Oct 21, 2007
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You know, a lot depends on what is going to go on your bench regularly.
Plus, what climate, conditions in the shop.
Mold is not even a thought here in the Desert.
My first workbench was a solid core door with legs, I put together in 1988. I'm still using it. I put nothing on it, just didn't worry about grease or oil soaking into the top.
Net result, looks like a workbench and after 23 years I still use it every day.
My folding workbench I was going to use stain or oil on it. .7 Birch plywood surface.
Well, I forgot then got a bunch of oily parts on it.
That was 14 months ago, it gets used daily. It's stained, but works fine.
Wood soaks up the oil, etc. and just kind of age cures.
Plus, what climate, conditions in the shop.
Mold is not even a thought here in the Desert.
My first workbench was a solid core door with legs, I put together in 1988. I'm still using it. I put nothing on it, just didn't worry about grease or oil soaking into the top.
Net result, looks like a workbench and after 23 years I still use it every day.
My folding workbench I was going to use stain or oil on it. .7 Birch plywood surface.
Well, I forgot then got a bunch of oily parts on it.
That was 14 months ago, it gets used daily. It's stained, but works fine.
Wood soaks up the oil, etc. and just kind of age cures.
EuroVt
Well-known member
Depends on the shop. Mine is all painted surfaces. So I have been painting the benches. Primer, gloss enamel top coat.
contactme_11
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- Dec 27, 2010
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- 106
Why even bother finishing? After bare wood soaks up enough oil and grease it will be preserved forever.