paint project critique

[1930artdeco]

Hi All,

Ok, here is the scoop. I needed a cabinet for my engine analyzer and found this. It was formerly a government electronics cabinet I am guessing, as I found remnants of a cork sheet on the top. So this year I was able to get around to it and use my new Critter siphon gun. Now, this is my first ever use of a spray gun and I wasn't going for glass sides like on a car. I actually want to copy the factory cabinet that it came with originally. So I set about getting the supplies and settled on:

-Rustoleum 'bare metal primer'-which is apparently oil based (found out the hard way) but great stuff!
-Rustoleum exterior grade blue
-Valspar gloss white exterior
-Don't linger too long in one spot
-Orange peel?

So I had it blasted and then shot it with the primer (2X coats). I sanded the inside with some 600 grit just to smooth it out a bit. Then I shot the blue but left the hinges/handles white for a different touch. This is what I ended up with and I am actually quite pleased with the way it turned out for a first time project. Now here is what I need-guidance. What did I do wrong and how do I fix it. Some of which I already know:

-Slow down the sweep speed
-Maintain the same distance for the whole sweep.
-Maybe add some flotrol to make it siphon better and smoother
-Don't shoot outdoors when it is 80+ degrees out. I think the paint started to dry before it hit the metal, even though I was about 12 inches away at 90 psi (manufacturers recommended pressure). I did shoot in the shade.

What do you experts say? Keep in mind this is a learning experience for me. The last pic is what I was trying for but I got fed up with trying to paint the stencil on so the doors are going to stay blue.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[38 Dodge Coupe]

Well it looks like a good match up to me. Nice job.


Sent from my iPad using Garage Journal

 

[gte718p]

Looks good from here. Are you happy with it? If not what are you not satisfied with?

If you were going Don Long quality I would have used some quality body filler to smooth out some of the rust divots on the top and to straighten out the side. You could sand and polish to take care of the orange peel.

If you have to spray outside, build yourself a paint booth. PVC, 12 mil plastic, some hepa filters, and a box fan go a long way to making a good place to spray. $100 in materials and packs away to almost nothing when not in use.

 

[Two Door]

Was this enamel? You don't mention reducer (thinner). You can purchase it appropriate for the temp you have while spraying. Twelve inches of distance seems slightly far, as well.

 

[1930artdeco]

Thanks for the replies so far. Yeah could have filled in all of the divots and straightened the sides but I wasn’t going to that look. Namely it is just a cabinet and it is my first time out so to speak. Maybe in the future when I have a really nice booth instead of the driveway. As far as reducers I did not thin the paint at all and yes it is exterior grade latex enamel. The white Valspar said not to thin��, not sure why but I guess I could.

Mike

 

[clubairth]

I thought Flotrol was for latex paint?
I would NOT use latex on metal if at all possible.

But the real answer is just practice more it's not hard BUT it is skillful!
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[1930artdeco]

I am using latex primer and paint this go around. I thought flotrol was just for making the paint flow easier through the gun and maybe on the surface?

Mike

 

[Lassen Forge]

Practice, practice, practice! Get your sweeps more consistant, and match your reducer to your temperature. Watch someone who does really high quality automotive painting, watch what they do re overlap, sweeps, and especially consistant distance from gun to work... Get your spray pattern and overlap down. Do a few "practice sweeps" on a piece of ply or, yes, even cardboard to see what you're putting down, how thick, bevore you move on to the cabinet. I'm also thinking you were too far from your work, but that depends on your gun, tips, and pressure.

As to materials, I'm assuming Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel? You can thin it (there's a couple guys here that do amazing stuff with Rustoleum, BTW) but not too far... One guy has a youtube using Rusto Enamel, commercial AE reducer, and a gun, and turns out some amazing work.

All in all... since you're going for the "working shop tool" look rather than a full resto job, I think it turned out fine. You need to get your pressure down or increase distance (or both) for stencil work, tho - your "feather" is from the pressure pushing the stencil up, putting aerosolized paint where it doesn't belong. (It's really common when doing the same thing with a rattlecan...) Once it cures you can buff / rub it out...

All in all, tho, not bad at all.