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Paint questions - for metal projects using HVLP sprayer

stickshift

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I have some steel items I want to paint. Recently picked up a HVLP spray gun, so this would be a good time to get my feet wet with using a spray gun. What kind of paint should I get, maybe an oil-based enamel? What should I use for a primer?

Also, does Rustoleum's 'Hammered' out of a spray gun look good? I've used it out of a rattle can and I thought it was decent.
 
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The Cobbler

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yes to the oil based paint. you will need to thin it, I use lacquer thinner . I filter it with paint strainers too . practice on something that doesn't matter so you can get a feel for it .
not sure of hammered paint will perform well, try it & see
 

smackey05

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Depends on what you want to do. I would second thinned rustoleum. I'd also look into a self etching primer to spray before you paint it.

Or: Use some Rustoleum clean metal primer first.
 

Walkers

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The hammered works far better out of a gun than a rattle can. The trick is to use it can strength. You will want a 2.0 gun nozzle. An 1.8 will work in a pinch, a 2.2 is even better. It will come out of the gun spitting, which is fine, just get coverage and it will flow out and look great. If you thin it, it will run, unless you use very light coats, but then you won't get the texture.
 

AldeanFan

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I’ve had good results with rustoleum thinned with lacquer thinner and sprayed out of a cheap paint gun.
Rustoleum primer sprays well also.

The surface underneath is more important than the paint or the application. The best paint sprayed by the best painter through the best gun will still look bad on top of a poorly prepped surface.
 

NUTTSGT

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Another vote for Rustoleum for learning to spray. I use mineral spirits to thin mine.

Here's the tool box I painted with it.

 

lmg

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I also spray the Rustoleum, I do add Valspar 4625 Enamel Hardener. I have ordered this from Amazon in the past, however they do not currently have any.

 
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stickshift

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When you guys say 'Rustoleum', are you referring to Rustoleum's oil-based enamel?

For primer, should I go with clean metal primer or self-etching primer? This is for metal projects that would be stored indoors, so rust isn't a big concern.
 

dcg9381

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Their hammered paint seems to be very different than their oil based paint. Hammered works great for me. I think their oil based product - I've had a number of other troubles with it..

I think both would need to be thinned to be sprayed.

IMHO, you really want a catalytic paint... They're just better all around.
 
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NUTTSGT

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When you guys say 'Rustoleum', are you referring to Rustoleum's oil-based enamel?

For primer, should I go with clean metal primer or self-etching primer? This is for metal projects that would be stored indoors, so rust isn't a big concern.
I was.

The tool box I linked was painted with black Rust-Oleum out of a gallon can. The drawers fronts were Rust-Oleum rattle can.
 

DGersic

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When you guys say 'Rustoleum', are you referring to Rustoleum's oil-based enamel?

For primer, should I go with clean metal primer or self-etching primer? This is for metal projects that would be stored indoors, so rust isn't a big concern.

Yes. From Lowes, in cans.

IMG_2610.jpeg

This bench was black / dark grey when I got it.

IMG_2611.jpeg
 

ToddG

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Rust-oleum thinned 25% through a Harbor Freight purple gun. I run thinner through the gun after I'm done spraying until it comes out clear and put it back on the shelf for another year...
 

CraigStu

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I have not used R Hammer in a gun but have used dozens of rattle cans. What I found if how thick you spray it determines how much of the 'hammered' look you get. I start w/ a light coat, once it is tacky, a heavier coat. Then a total of either 3 or 4 coats each being heavier. I try to do it on parts I can move and position. For max 'hammered' I like the part laid down flat so my last coat is heavy as I have the gonads for.
 
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stickshift

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DGersic

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They also have this non-'professional' version, which is what I was eyeing.
Gets good reviews, so I'm guessing it will be fine for light duty use.

Seems the professional version is only sold in 1 gallon cans at HD and Lowes, while the cheaper stuff is sold in 1 quart cans.

Pictured is a one quart can, from Lowe’s. Maybe they’re no longer carrying them, though.
 

strutaeng

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I'm going to say that most of my Rust-Oleum paint jobs I'm going to either spray bomb or brush it. I've rolled it also. Nothing wrong with that for the appropriate use like a fence gate.

2k automotive and some specialty woodworking finishes I'll spray, yes. Hvlp or reduced pressure cap. I don't really haven't seen the need to spray Rust-Oleum, at least for my little jobs I'm doing here and there.

I haven't seen that hammered Rust-Oleum finish at the local big box stores in a while. Where are you guys getting it? The times I used it it was brushed with an inexpensive chip brush. 2 coats looked good.
 

Kail

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Prep is where it's at. Make sure the surface is sanded to the specs of the primer so it has a tooth to grab onto. I tend to use either wax and grease remover or acetone.
Wax and grease remover has a long flash time so I tend to always finish with acetone on clean towels.

I have painted after just wax and grease remover and had adhesion issues. I have really had trouble trying to clean with thinner, as it tends to leave a residue.

When it doubt. acetone it until its clean, then acetone it again. and then make sure you give it time to flash off, and blow out any seams.

Most paints will give you specs on how to reduce it for spraying. As others mentioned do a test panel. I use whatever I have laying around, paper, wood etc for spray patterns, but if you want to get a feel for the reduction to see if it is too heavy (clogs, spits or really bad orange peel, or too reduced, really prone to running and transparent.

Get the plastic mixing cups that have the ratio formulas on them. They make it so much easier.
 

ycgoat

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I Like Sherman Williams water based Industrial Primer DTM, but I am a novice and have never used a hammered finish paint.
 

isb cornbinder

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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have some steel items I want to paint. Recently picked up a HVLP spray gun, so this would be a good time to get my feet wet with using a spray gun. What kind of paint should I get, maybe an oil-based enamel? What should I use for a primer?

Also, does Rustoleum's 'Hammered' out of a spray gun look good? I've used it out of a rattle can and I thought it was decent.
"so this would be a good time to get my feet wet with using a spray gun."
I think you might be applying the paint to heavily if your feet are getting wet????
 

dcg9381

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I'm going to say that most of my Rust-Oleum paint jobs I'm going to either spray bomb or brush it. I've rolled it also. Nothing wrong with that for the appropriate use like a fence gate.
Yea, we've got a steel deck (4x4" posts) that we rolled it on. Works fine for that. Holds up "OK" definitely not a commercial finish.


I haven't seen that hammered Rust-Oleum finish at the local big box stores in a while. Where are you guys getting it? The times I used it it was brushed with an inexpensive chip brush. 2 coats looked good.
It's on the shelf here at Home Depot. I like it a lot better. Can't report on how it does in the sun long term.
 

TheJay

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Apr 25, 2024
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I have not used R Hammer in a gun but have used dozens of rattle cans. What I found if how thick you spray it determines how much of the 'hammered' look you get. I start w/ a light coat, once it is tacky, a heavier coat. Then a total of either 3 or 4 coats each being heavier. I try to do it on parts I can move and position. For max 'hammered' I like the part laid down flat so my last coat is heavy as I have the gonads for.
I understand using hammered paint it can wreak havoc with sprayers if left too long. Can you please describe your process? How long are you leaving between coats and what are you doing with the sprayer in between?
 

dogdog

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What size tips you guy use ? For primer or for thinned paint
 
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