Paint recommendation for steel tools

[soapii]

I have a few items in my shop (vise, stands etc) that I cleaned/stripped and want to paint them before they start to rust. Any special prep work or material you guys use for painting? Or can I just use a primer and Rustoleum for steel?

Thanks in advance.

--Joe

 

[driftpin]

My machinist uses Rustoleum for his ferrous metal stuff he needs painted. I use that or an equivalent product from the local Ace Hardware.

 

[PelicanPines]

I like to use a good primer before rustoleum.

 

[Dave455]

Got to admit I've never used Rustoleum, but I've painted up a few things over the years.

Priming and painting has always worked fine for stuff like stands, but I have to say that the process was in no way durable enough for a vice! Irrespective of the top coat, which in my case was a good quality metal paint, the weakest link is the primer which chips easily!

I only use enamel paint now for stuff like that. It's a little more costly but apply straight to bare metal and it gives a really tough finish. Spray or brush - either seems to work well!

 

[kythri]

I've had good results with Rust-Oleum self-etching primer and Dupli-Color engine enamels...

 

[NOZZLEMAN]

I just painted my Bridgeport with a product from PPG. It's a catalyzed paint that you can brush or spray... it is expensive, but it is truly nuclear stuff, the CAT dealer & John Deere dealers in town use it. great gloss too. If you locate a PPG paint store, they will know exactly what you need. Forget the rustoleum stuff - it's junk and doesn't last.

 

[sberry]

A lot of shop stuff doesn't even need primer. The painters friend is a box of purple scotchbrite. I used to fuss and prime every piece, I don't always do it anymore. No one notices that shate but I do always mask. I hate over spray, that they do see and it always catches my eye. I mask labels. Even if I don't refinish them it doesn't show much.
I just gave a piece of equipment a shot the other day with some extra paint, I simply masked the decals and its hard to tell they aren't new.

 

[theoldwizard1]

As everyone has said, the most important thing about painting metal is that it has to be CLEAN ! Spotlessly clean !!

A couple of coats of rattle can Rustoleum (read directions for temps, time between coats and final cure time) is all you need for something like a vice.

If you want a very "durable" paint and do not want epoxy, use an alkyd enamel with a hardener (catalyst). The hardener is optional but it does make a difference on durability. One excellent alkyd enamel specific for metal that see a lot of weather, is Valspar® Tractor & Implement
Enamel Paint. Limited color choices, but it is what they use on farm and construction equipment.

If you are spray painting sheet metal, take a tip from the body guys. Spray on a coat of "high build" prime and let it cure. Then spray a very light "guide" coat of a contrasting paint. Using a hand sanding block or a "long board" with fine grit paper, start to sand off the guide coat. That is when you will see minor scratches and low spots. Clean, repeat the high build primer, guide coat and sanding, but go to a finer grit. Keep repeating until you are happy, then apply the top coat.

 

[sberry]

I painted a car part for insurance work a while back, did it with white appliance paint from a spray can. Looked so good you couldn't tell any different.
On tractors and equipment always mask rubber, rad hoses and even a strip of tape on tie rod end rubbers. It makes such a difference.

Forget the rustoleum stuff - it's junk and doesn't last.

Sure, out door, in sunlight , with chemicals etc nut for some jackstands its ok. The hoist pieces I post above still look new a decade later as they are indoors. I use hi dollar paint too where its cost effective or has ruff service life.