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Paint Shaker Prototype Design is DONE!

e-tek

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OK boys, I finally found some time toput togther a rattle-can shaker/mixer. As some of you know, I asked for ideas and got somegood ones, but thought at first I'd use a windsheild wiper motor as the base motor. Then I got to thinking about one of the ideas posted of using a drill as the base motor and saw something on the net that I thought would work. I put it togther with stuff I had lying around the shop, which means it could be much better with some design-specific purchases. So this one is just a rough proto, but it works!:thumbup::thumbup:

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Le PIECE DE RESISTANCE!!!!!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:bounce:

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i305.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid305.photobucket.com/albums/nn201/e-tekpics/mvi_1863.flv">


OF COURSE I HAVE TO CLEAN IT ALL UP & SECURE THE DRILL (I HAVE SOME PIECES I CAN USE AS A "SLIP-IN" BRACKET). Now that the prototype works, I would want to make the base out of aluminum or steel, use bearing-inserts for the rods and make a quick clamp that is wider with a padded insert for the paint can. Assoon as I finish my Challenger, the list of mods I want to do to the Challenger and renovate the kirchen.....:wtf:

Any other adviced/ideas is MORE THAN WELCOMED!!:beer:
 
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e-tek

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very cool, why not just shake the can?

Ya right- and why not just walk to the friggin' store???:bounce:

When I restore parts for my car restorations, I sometimes needs 4-5 different cans and like to first shake the sh!t outof them and second keep them shaken (shooked?:headscrat) throughout. I made a parts paint booth last year to minimize the overspray and fumes....and the idea grew from there.
 

mag99

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tuttle, ok
I think that you need to add a heater to warm the paint in the car, so it flows better when you are spraying.. :lol_hitti

Hell Yeah!............And, figure out a way to trigger the nozzle while being shaken, then just hold your parts in front of it!!!!!!:pimpflash
 

RobSmith

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Watched the video and it looks like it over centered there at the end....Jammed up and stalled. Ha Ha ha..(sorry) It's a prototype. Try to lengthen one of the cranks a bit longer than the other. That way it will never over-centre and probably shake harder.
 
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e-tek

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Something-but this is for those little glass bottles of paint used for models. I work on real cars. ;) Plus, I'd rather sepnd 10 hours thinking, 10hours building and $3 in parts...,PLUS: it keeps me out of trouble....and:

Because he has Chilli. He's never had to shake his can of paint

Chilli told me if I sprend any more time in the shop I might have to start shaking my own....:lol_hitti

so physically shaking the can by hand was too hard?

See earlier replies....short answer: YES!

Watched the video and it looks like it over centered there at the end....Jammed up and stalled. Ha Ha ha..(sorry) It's a prototype. Try to lengthen one of the cranks a bit longer than the other. That way it will never over-centre and probably shake harder.

Finally, someone with some actual input! But I don't think it's the length so much as it's the angle of the holes in the back base. On the next one I'll try to move the top hole further out so it stays leaning to that side. The bottom arm is to move circularly and the top arm is only to move up and down.
 

hoarder1212

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Celina Ohio
I have seen some quick release style clamps for grease guns that would work really nice for that or a fire extinguisher clamp, maybe you could pad the inside of the clamp with a wrap around baby bottle warmer and warm the paint at the same time. just my 2 cents.
 

Jbullfrog

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I have a few suggestion for your next proto-type. You can get a hose clamp saddle that uses a carrage bolt on the outside of the clamp. Another possibility would be a kitchen fire extinguiser holder. As for the crank drive, the crank arms from a wiper system would be more accurate, but your system works.
 

PAToyota

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Seems like it doesn't really go fast enough to fully shake the can?

I've always wanted one of the shakers for cans like the paint stores have... Amazing the prices they want for those things!
 

herb101

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Apr 3, 2005
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San Antonio
You can also checkout a local HVAC / control shop for some goodies to make the prototyping adjustments easier and the final version cooler. In the HVAC controls industry, we use lots of crankarms with slots for pivot location adjustablility, 5/16 or 3/8 rod stock for connecting arms and clamp on ball pivots the let you easily adjust the rod length. These items used in concert can adjust the torque multiplication and range of motion as you alter the power:powered device ratio.

A bunch of these parts on seen on the link here:

http://www.kele.com/olcat/AD20/Actuator-Accessories.pdf

You can find these type of goodies at distribution warehouses liek Johnstone Supply, Baker, MSC, Amcon, United refrigeration, McMaster-Carr and possibly even Graingers.
 
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e-tek

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Some great ideas here. Now I can see what I should do for a proper working model. I would get a small motor with a graduated switch and use ball and socket ends, with threaded rods between. This would make it adjustable and very smooth. A clamp such as those descibed would be ticket too. The proto rubs on the can and the last thing you'd want is to puncture a full can!
Like I said, I threw this together with stuff lying around the shop just to see if the basic idea would work. If I had access to all that HVAC stuff it'd be real slick!
 
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KenS

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Oct 21, 2007
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A couple of suggestions:

1. In your prototype unit, load the can upside down. The solids settle to the bottom and by inverting the can you let gravity cooperate with the agitator.

2. Consider a unit where the can is positioned horizontally for similar reasons to above. Take a look at how the can is loaded in these two commercial units that are variations on a theme:

Northern Tool's Astro Shaker

Another Astro Shaker

And here's a homebrew unit with the same concept:

Homemade Shaker from Washing Machine Agitator

3. I personally like the idea of this homemade unit where the loaded can is enclosed in a length of PVC pipe.

Agitator with PVC Pipe Can Holder

Here is a commercial unit that utilizes springs and a cam motion:

Tornado Shaker

And as a novelty for inspiration, here's one built from Legos.

Legos Paint Shaker

Thanks for inviting us in on your fun project. I can imagine how aggravating it must be to have to manually shake cans all day.
 

sam 8

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Sierra Foothills, Nor. Calif.
Very cool thinking E-tek.
Looking at the early protptype some ideas come to mind.
If you could set it up to run like a small crankshaft, with counterweights, etc, and put two "shaking stations" on it, you could shake the primer can and one top-coat, or have options to plan out your usage.
Also, why not weld a 1/4 -20 nut to the end of the shaft, then put a socket on your drill to actuate the shaker from the end of the shaft outside the mechanism?

I think this shiznit is fun, too.
 

Crusty Nut

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Mar 16, 2008
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Cool idea. I've been contemplating buying an air powered shaker, but they are a little expensive. I really like the washing machine agitator. Those are fairly easy to come by.
 

nissan_crawler

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Neat idea. Good execution, but I think my system wins on creativity points, plus it's way more fun, and doesn't use any electricity. All you have to do is throw a stuffed mouse across the garage...

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:spit::spit::fawk:
 

T56 Impala

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Suggestion for clamp:

Small fire extinguisher holder. Have your gadget shake the whole holder not just the clamp.
 
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e-tek

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KenS has been doing his research! As everyone can see - they are $200.00to buy!! But I like the holder on the Astro unit - bet a small pipe-clamp would work and it would be quick.

The cat idea is pretty good - kinda cruel, but hey, it's a cat! Bet you wouldn't even have to throw a mouse- the cat would throw a fit once she found she was tied to a can!!

BTW- Sam8, what's a shiznit?

Thanks for playing along boys! The final steel design with threaded rods, ball joints and bearings will work smooth as glass and cost about $25.00...let's see who can build the first one!!!
 

TNToy

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I'm waiting for the hose-clamp to wear through the side of the can.

Then your hands will be black. And your face. And most of your garage.
 

mag99

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tuttle, ok
etek, very good idea, ya proved it works, and works well, by the way:bowdown:

But, You may already be doing this, if so ...disregard.

Obviously your shop is heated, judging by location. Most guys working temp is 50-60 degrees, not ideal for paint. I would suggest build a cabinet or buy one, locker storage or so...and install one or two flush mount light bullb fixtures in it, maybe at the bottom. Play with different watt bulbs to find what it takes to keep the temp 75* or so. Place all your cans in the cabinet, hell, put compounds, bondo, etc in it. By keeping the paint at optimum temp, it will require very little shaking. I bet just shaking it from the cabinet to the part to be sprayed would be plenty. (yeah, I know what it says on the can):thumbup:

I have always wanted to do this, and will when I get my new shop built. And the temperature here is WAY milder than yours.:bounce:

Actually, I do this where I work. We have a double barrel wood heater, and I place all my poly-filler, bondo, kitty-hair, etc. on a table next to the stove. Man! You never seen filler mix so easilly! Flows great! Have also used it to warm compounds, spray bombs, and gallon cans prior to using. Makes a world of difference. Obviously, not a new invention, but...

Again, I'm not knocking your plan at all! If we didn't like to build things, we wouldn't need a garage! Works for you, go for it!
Just my $.02:beer:
 

gsport

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i like the idea of warming the can up...
how about wrapping a towel around the can and throwing it into the clothes dryer... (on warm heat only though):rolleyes2
 

mad57

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Even better put a couple of cans in your kids/neighbors kids back pack and take them to the park for an hour, drop them off with mom when you get home, go to the garage and paint .:) neat idea ill tinker with one when i get the time....but then again i do have 3 yr old twins;)
 

Gath3r

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Hopedale Ma
Damn!!

Just need someone to spray the paint for you after its well shaken' and you really got something there.

:thumbup:
 
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e-tek

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I'm down with heating the paint for sure. They flow better and adhere longer. I normally put the paint cans I'm using in the parts booth I made and heat it up along with the parts and ambient air prior to painting. With the mixer, I can mix while the parts/booth is warming up.:thumbup:


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RobSmith

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When I build and design some sort of mechanism. I cut the parts out of beer carton cardboard ( the single layer type) and pin the pivot points with thumbtacks. That way you can "work" the set-up and see if it works. I've built a bonnet strut system, a wiper mechanism, a CD player mount, Fuel tank mount & clearance model as well as heater boxes and dashboard layouts....all out of cardboard. Test fit and test run. Then build the real thing. It makes trial and error fun. Plus emptying those beer boxes isn't an unpleasant task either.
 

BUGTHUG

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I have an old coke machine 60's model, looks good but no motor. These have the slanted shelves for bottles, cans work. But the pop machines are insulated. So I think these work well for holding about 50 cans of paint. I usually put the day I buy them on the lid so I know how old the paint is. I also have a small lamp light inside I use for the winter time, it doesn't take much like a 40w will heat it nicely.
 
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