AFA overspray goes, if you paint is the right consistency and the tip the right size, you can control the overspray more than you think.I picked up this one from Lowes ~2 months ago.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Pow...ectric-Handheld-Airless-Paint-Sprayer/3562114
Its not the best or anything but i thought it worked just fine. I used it for my shed and it was definitely quicker (even with cleanup) than rolling it. But i didnt have to mask anything.
Couple things I learned
-The "see through" paint reservoir is pointless. Least with white/beige paint couldnt really tell the level as the paint coats the whole container
-You really dont want to run the sprayer "dry" as it will spurt when its empty.
-Paint goes all over. You really will want to mask/cover EVERYTHING you dont want paint on in a room.
-Clean up on the gun itself it a bit of a paint in the **** but i didnt find it to be that bad. I would recommend some mineral spirit/paint thinner (whatever the manual tells you to use) and a small bucket you can fill up with it. Get some rubber gloves (nitrile/latex/ect) for the small parts. I then poured that bucket into the paint reservoir to clean it out.
My wife wants a large bedroom painted. I'd like to buy a paint sprayer to apply primer and several coats of paint as the present one is loud and bright.
Are there any sprayers that would be better?
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Personally, I never spray w/o at least a 2' extension.
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If renting you may have to buy that.
I like the roller "paint stick" system. The handle is a giant syringe and the rollers are perforated. Easy to clean with the faucet attachment and quick to apply a lot of paint without use of a roller pan.
You know guys, he wants to buy a spray outfit. The thing to do is show pros and cons, not tell the OP to **** up and all that ****. I say rent because you then know what it's all about and how well a certain brand works. Many who try an airless for the first time don't like it as they realy don't understand how to paint with it.
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What's the advantage of the extension?
AFA overspray goes, if you paint is the right consistency and the tip the right size, you can control the overspray more than you think.
First of all, never spray an outside corner where some of the spray pattern blows past the corner. Makes no difference whether you hold the gun sideways or upright. 2ndly, your hand with the gun in it must remain 100% perpendicular to the surface. No fanning. No pointing down or up. You have to be squared to the surface at all times. To go lower, hang your hand down with the gun upside down. To go higher than you can reach square, get on a ladder, scaffold or use a gun extension with a rotating tip.
Personally, I never spray w/o at least a 2' extension.
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If renting you may have to buy that.
This sounds like something I would like to avoid at all costs, but if thats what your into then +1 on the rubber glove recomendation..
-Clean up on the gun itself it a bit of a paint in the **** but i didnt find it to be that bad. I would recommend some mineral spirit/paint thinner (whatever the manual tells you to use) and a small bucket you can fill up with it. Get some rubber gloves (nitrile/latex/ect) for the small parts. I then poured that bucket into the paint reservoir to clean it out.
Imagine if you had a 5 foot long arm. And if spaying an 8 or 9' ceiling you don't have to hold your hand over your head all day. I just hold the gun near my head and walk back and forth with the gun wide open. Once N and S and once E and W while it's still wet. On walls I turn the tip to face the wall and run the top portion left and right. Then flip it and do the base. Fill in the middle.
Seriously, I worked with a guy that sprayed out a carpeted apt with no drop cloths. He did drop the wood handrailing in the stairs area because of the odd walls ans ceiling. I cut in around door and windows out to 6" as instructed. I rolled out to a foot on either side of outside corners so he didn't have to spray those. He used a series of large shields at the base boards which I kept wiped off and handed them back. He never wore a hat and his hair was not full of paint at the completion. He'd run an upright vacuum on the carpet before leaving. There was a little dry dust from the minimal bounce-back. Always used new tips. Wide pattern and held no more than 12" from the wall.
This was 40 years ago and we still talk about this guy.
This is a pretty good analysis of the situation. I would only add that when spraying and back rolling you get the best of both worlds. The spray gets into every crack like on ship lap but the rolling does work the surface paint..........................................(snip)...............................................
Even then, I've heard from the pro's that you still need to back roll because it "works the paint in", don't know how true that is. If you go to touch up later, a non-back-rolled vs brushed/rolled application, it can be distinguished side by side by the slightest color/texture differential. Regardless, I think you always need to back roll a spray job. I think the only time a sprayer is worth while is if you have a second hand behind you to back roll as you spray, otherwise I think you'll be disappointed.
Basically what I am getting at is spraying sounds and looks like it will always be a faster and better product. But the reality is....the pro's make it look easy.
Your money is better spent throwing what you were willing to pay for the spraying into better brushes/rollers and paint. You'll be amazed at what top end painting equipment and paint does....
My wife wants a large bedroom painted. I'd like to buy a paint sprayer to apply primer and several coats of paint as the present one is loud and bright.
Are there any sprayers that would be better?
