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Paint sticking to walls

hitman2

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Feb 17, 2012
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4
I'm nearing completion of garage addition to my house. Painting was completed 3 days ago, last night I was taping out to paint seperation stripe for perimiter of garage. While pulling the tape up to get straight lines I discovered the tape pulling the paint off the wall.

I tested in several areas and the paint came up with tape in all areas.
I questioned my contractor this morning if the walls were cleaned of drywall dust before painting.
He tells me they were not dirty when painted.

I used Valspar Duramax paint with primer built in

Any ideas?

Thanks everyone
 
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aandpdan

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In between MA and PA
Telling you the walls weren't "dirty" doesn't answer your question about the drywall dust.

Couple of things:

1. Poor surface prep (the dust).
2. It hasn't cured fully yet, how was the temp/humidity?
3. Was it "painter's tape" or masking tape?
4. Poor quality paint. Paint/primer is a compromise.
 

rlitman

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Long Island
Even the blue painters tape can pull freshly done paint (anything painted in the previous week is still VERY soft and fragile, and most paints take over a month to reach full hardness). Within the first week, this is an application for the special extra gentle painters tapes (sometimes it's purple, sometimes green), and even then you need to pull very carefully.
 

Ric in Richmond

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Oct 17, 2009
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Richmond...duh
Tip for good paint stripes.

Put up your stripes.

Paint with THE SAME COLOR AS THE WALL IS NOW.

Let dry.

Paint with your second color.

No bleed under since any bleed under is same color as wall WAS.


Doesn't solve your current problems...sorry!
 

911mike

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May 22, 2010
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michigan
I just went through the same issue. Painted a base color and let it dry 9 days with fans at 65 degrees. Taped with frog tape and painted my second strip color and pulled the tape and of came the base color. I used home depot paint with primer. The so called good stuff. I'm just pissed.
 

softballrz

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Mar 11, 2011
Messages
57
in the paint business. the paint and primer stuff is a marketing tool. raw walls should always be primed and a top quality paint used after. we only recommend the paint and primer on walls in good shape and similar color being painted
 

rippered

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Nov 27, 2010
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Olympia,WA
My family runs a house painting co and I was a painter for 5 years. Everything said so far I agree with. Quality paint is not sold at big box stores,except zinsser. The only brands I would use and could get in the area I was in; is Ben Moore, Porter and Pittsburg Paint(PPG). Sherwin is ok if you get the best $$ they have.

I would try to touch that paint up asap, works best when the paint is still green. Good luck
 

trbomax

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starvation lake,mi.
My only tip is that I always vacume finished drywall before primeing. You will be amazed at how much dust comes off and how many pinholes in the mud are emptyed out.
 

Steevo

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I vacuumed my well-cured drywall walls before primering with Glidden drywall primer, let that dry for a week, then painted with Glidden semi-gloss white interior/exterior wall paint.
Three months later, I masked around the window trim so I could paint it, and when removing the blue 3m masking tape, it pulled the paint AND primer in a lot of places, leaving raw drywall.

I don't think care and preparation seem to have much impact on the results.
 

JimVonBaden

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Northern Virginia
I vacuumed my well-cured drywall walls before primering with Glidden drywall primer, let that dry for a week, then painted with Glidden semi-gloss white interior/exterior wall paint.
Three months later, I masked around the window trim so I could paint it, and when removing the blue 3m masking tape, it pulled the paint AND primer in a lot of places, leaving raw drywall.

I don't think care and preparation seem to have much impact on the results.

I had a couple tiny spots pull up even though I was VERY careful to clean, prime and paint. It is the nature of the beast.

One trick is to pull back against the wall. Make sure the pulling is as close to 180° as possible. Doing this makes the pain have to be really loose to pull off. I tried with blue and green light tack tape. I still lost about 6 spots no bigger than 1mm-2mm in size. Easy touch-up.

Jim :cool:
 
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egdede

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First vacuum. Next damp wipe w/a fairly dry towel. Next use tack clothe with a very light touch. The tack clothe has wax or wax-like substitute and will muck things up worse than before if pressed too hard. Then primer. Then paint. Use good paint, get better results.
 
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Stargeezer

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Central Nevada, USA
Two tips from me on this:

1)There is a way to pull tape which minimizes the chances of pulling the base coat-you carefully fold back the tape on itself and pull at a very low angle and in a 45 degree direction.

2) I have the best luck with Frog. Frog now makes a sensitive surfaces product too; like 3M does. Anyways, I pull the tape as soon as the stripe has flashed-ff. It is not sticky wet yet, but it is far from dry too. Pulling the tape "wet" will limit the time that the tape is on the base color.

Technique has a lot do do with the art of garage wall striping.
 

kartracer23

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Aug 7, 2008
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New Castle, IN
On the paint & primer combos...

Read the direction carefully. There are so many situations where they say you can't use it, you wonder why they even bother. I saw a sign at a paint store that was an enlarged version of the directions for a combo paint. It was hilarious. Just marketing hype.
 
OP
H

hitman2

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Feb 17, 2012
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Thanks everyone! after a couple weeks the paint still comes off with the tape. I'm convinced my painter did not clean the walls of drywall dust. There's still dust coming off from where paint has peeled.
 

Airwilf

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Welland Ontario
Been a long time since I've been here. Just moved into a new house & am already spending spare time in the garage. have painted /striped several garages in the past also. It appears that the builders' painters may "have not " properly cleaned the walls of sanding dust prior to priming & painting the garage. Paint comes off easily when removing lightly applied masking tape when marking walls for other projects. What are my options to get new paint to stick? Will I have to reprime also? I am a retired senior & have been painting for my own benefit since high school, so repainting doesn't bother me, but the 10 foot walls & ceiling will be a first .
Thanks crew for any advice.Disregard the attached photo, it's an oldie.
 

pcmeiners

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If you use oil based primer you will not have this issue., but be my guest keep using latex primer.

"He tells me they were not dirty when painted."

You can use Latex primer, but it does not adhere well unless the wall board is really clean/dustless.. your contractor is shoveling it. Latex is cheaper and easier to apply, the walls were NOT cleaned well.
 
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Marctrees

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I am not a Pro painter.

But it seems to me, backrolling would not only work into the mix any surface dust, but also like work the primer "into" the pores much better than just spraying.

Marc
 

DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
Been a long time since I've been here. Just moved into a new house & am already spending spare time in the garage. have painted /striped several garages in the past also. It appears that the builders' painters may "have not " properly cleaned the walls of sanding dust prior to priming & painting the garage. Paint comes off easily when removing lightly applied masking tape when marking walls for other projects. What are my options to get new paint to stick? Will I have to reprime also? I am a retired senior & have been painting for my own benefit since high school, so repainting doesn't bother me, but the 10 foot walls & ceiling will be a first .
Thanks crew for any advice.Disregard the attached photo, it's an oldie.


Nothing you can put on top of the current paint is going to make the primer adhesion any better. If you can’t live with it as is, demo and re drywall, with proper prep, prime, and top coat this time.




Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

pcmeiners

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I am not a Pro painter.

But it seems to me, backrolling would not only work into the mix any surface dust, but also like work the primer "into" the pores much better than just spraying.

Marc

Helps somewhat but if there is dust on the wall board you still can get poor adhesion with latex, latex basically sits on top of the paper/dust whereas oil/shellac penetrates forming a strong bond. Of course NO type of primer will adhere if a great amount of dust is on wall board, like many so called "contractors" leave before painting.
 
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