Paintin' a trailer frame

[Holedgr]

O.k guys.....Here's the deal, I have a new trailer frame I'm fabbing up to be an enclosed trailer (7' x 10'). I'm gonna use 3/4" treated ply for the floor. The floor will be bolted through the frame.

The frame is out of 3" C-channel. Every surface is accessible. I can and will filp the frame over to paint it.

I DO NOT want to use 'herculiner' or a product of that type. I would like to avoid POR 15 for cost and mess reasons. Powdercoating is $800.00 for the frame and that is more than I paid for the steel and axle. not to mention I've seen powdercoated frames and they don't seem to hold up well here in Michigan.

I guess I'd like to know if there are any other options I am unaware of...


I originally was gonna just prime it twice and throw some black rustoleum on it. The steel is very clean and rust free. On the microscopic level...I have no idea how clean it is. I want this thing to last as long as possible with out breaking the bank.

Thanks,

-T

 

[uhcrandy]

I would use a epoxy primer, then paint as usuall.

 

[gorilla]

I think that you have a good plan, you may want to use metal prep on the steel or use a self etching primer. Paint won't adhere well to iron oxide (bare steel) but will adhere to iron phosphate ( metal prep'ed steel).

 

[metal1313]

just prep it up good, and apply several coats of paint. like 2x primer, 3x color. and i like to hit the corners/welded points first and then go over every thing

 

[Holedgr]

Thanks for all the replies, guys!

Questions, again... I am going to rattle can all of this...the minimum temp on the can says 50 degress...I KNOW warmer is better, but is 55 cool? Or too cool to expect reasonable drying times?? What is a brand name of metal etch?? How is it applied??
I usually just prime the metal after I wire brush it and nozzle blow it clean.

Oh yeah....epoxy primer...rattle can product?? Or no...

Thanks,

-T

 

[Zrexxer]

Questions, again... I am going to rattle can all of this...

Oh... thought you said you wanted it to last as long as possible. Using spray cans will not give you the best durability.

You'd be better off buying a quart or two of black Rustoleum and spraying it with a gun, failing that, even brushing regular Rustoleum on will be better than a spray can formulation.

 

[Holedgr]

Thanks Zrexxer.....didn't think of rolling or brushing.....can I still get an epoxy primer than brushes on??

-T

 

[MP&C]

Epoxy Primer won't know it's being brushed on if you don't tell it. Just like spraying, may take a couple coats, be sure to observe flash time between coats. Only difference is your finished product may have a few brush strokes in it. Can't see where that will even be much noticed on a trailer frame.

 

[Holedgr]

Great info guys.....thanks again!

Please keep opinions coming as I have a few days of prep, grinding, and last minute ideas to incorporate.


-T

 

[Mickey O]

I did one last summer, I used primer, spray paint that was on clearance and than painted it with 3M rubberized undercoating that I bought on clearance at Wal Mart.

 

[rsanter]

a friend of mine brushed on rustolium primer and then paint.
it turned out better than I would have guessed

bob

 

[battmain]

I used Rustoleum Primer and paint. It looked like a brand new trailer when I was done. The trailer sits outside. It looked great for about a year or two. There were at least two coats of each. Maybe more in some areas like the front where the kicked up stones would cause issues. Now the paint is stripping from the primed and unprimed areas. It is entirely possible that I didn't make the coats thick enough, but still...

I'll probably use up the rest of the paint to make it look good again.

I'll see if I can dig up a picture or two.

Edit: Here is a pic of the paint lifting. The primer is fine underneath. There is some rust on the trailer, but interestingly the rusted sections are fine.

 

[nate379]

Powder Coat and then Rustoleum have not held up that great on my trailer. I even put big *** mudflaps on my truck and still it just chips all away and rusts.

 

[Holedgr]

Thanks for all the replies, guys....I'll just double coat the epoxy primer and double coat the paint. I guess I just thought that since all the trailers I've seen have mostly turn to dogsh!t, that I would do it better, but $100 for herculiner doesn't seem worth it.
I'll post some pics when I am done with this thing....

-T

 

[W-Cummins]

Have the thing hot dipped galvanized, no more rust and no rock chips either. My trailer is made out of a power line tower and it's all hot dipped ( a huge pain in the *** to weld on but yours will be all welded before dipping)....

William...

 

[Keith_MN]

I just re-did my trailer with Valspar's tractor and implement paint. I brushed it on and sprayed some hard to brush areas such as the coupler and chains.

It is an enamel and costs about $30/gallon. It is available from Fleet Farm or Tractor Supply, at least here in Minnesota. They sell it in all the various tractor colors and have matching rattle can colors. It is too early to tell how well it will hold up since it has only been a month. However, it looks really good. The brush strokes are not too noticible and is more than good enough for a utility trailer.

 

[RattytatTom]

I just re-did my trailer with Valspar's tractor and implement paint. I brushed it on and sprayed some hard to brush areas such as the coupler and chains.

It is an enamel and costs about $30/gallon. It is available from Fleet Farm or Tractor Supply, at least here in Minnesota. They sell it in all the various tractor colors and have matching rattle can colors. It is too early to tell how well it will hold up since it has only been a month. However, it looks really good. The brush strokes are not too noticible and is more than good enough for a utility trailer.

This is good stuff, but $30./gal for a trailer?
Here's the ultimate deal:
a majority of my stuff is Rustolem red primered, then painted liberally with "clearance" OIL based PORCH and FLOOR enamel. Bought out the shelves at Meijer's = $7.97/gal!
This stuff dries hard as a rock and holds up to MI's weather.
Warning: Don't buy the Latex, water based ****.

 

[35mastr]

I would use any of the tractor paints sold in your area. For some reason those tractor paints dry hard as nails and last a real long time.

 

[TA^Guy]

A $100 can of POR15 goes a long, long way and it's well worth it.

And messy? Por15 is very spread able and not overly messy at all. I've had nthing but great results with their products.

 

[MrMark]

ACID 8 by UPOL of England is supposed to be the best self etching primer money can buy. It is used on marine here. It is available in a spray can but it is expensive. You need to spray it on bare metal. I used it on a vise as a primer.

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-pol-acid-8-1k-etch-primer-up0741-p-15132.aspx

 

[brianpgriset]

If you've got a few bucks layin around and live near the gulf coast you should be able to find someone to Thermal Spray Aluminum (TSA) it for you. Lots of refiners are using this now for thier piping coatings. It's basically like laying down a 0.030" thick layer of aluminum on your workpiece. This video shows the flame spray application, but there is also an arc spray application too.

Here are videos of both I found on youtube:

 

[Holedgr]

Brian....thanks for sharing those links!! That has to be the coolest thing I've seen in a while...

-T

 

[cnc-me]

Sandblast everything to almost, white metal.
Epoxy primer, and top with 2 part urathane.

 

[nonhog]

I did mine this summer with Hammerite and its sitting outside all winter.
Looks great so far. Used a brush, have some left over for touch up and they sell bomb cans also.

http://www.masterchem.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=42

 

[Karnage]

A $100 can of POR15 goes a long, long way and it's well worth it.

And messy? Por15 is very spread able and not overly messy at all. I've had nothing but great results with their products.

This man speaks the truth. Cost would have to be on par if not cheaper then 2 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of 2k paint.

 

[tonydanzah]

Oh... thought you said you wanted it to last as long as possible. Using spray cans will not give you the best durability.

You'd be better off buying a quart or two of black Rustoleum and spraying it with a gun, failing that, even brushing regular Rustoleum on will be better than a spray can formulation.

you can get really good spray paint, its just expensive. The last shop I was at stocked spray paint made by ppc or house of color. I didn't realize what it was until I sprayed a can on a spare rollbar i keep behind my shed. It has sat outside in the snow and rain for 2yrs now, paint looks great. I'm guessing it was a paint/clear coat, 2 stage paint.

 

[Kurt4440]

I did mine this summer with Hammerite and its sitting outside all winter.
Looks great so far. Used a brush, have some left over for touch up and they sell bomb cans also.

Do you have any pictures?

 

[nonhog]

I did mine this summer with Hammerite and its sitting outside all winter.
Looks great so far. Used a brush, have some left over for touch up and they sell bomb cans also.

Do you have any pictures?

One while still working on it and one tonight @ dusk, not the best pictures.

 

[IDASHO]

If you've got a few bucks layin around and live near the gulf coast you should be able to find someone to Thermal Spray Aluminum (TSA) it for you. Lots of refiners are using this now for thier piping coatings. It's basically like laying down a 0.030" thick layer of aluminum on your workpiece. This video shows the flame spray application, but there is also an arc spray application too.

Here are videos of both I found on youtube:

THAT is COOL!!