Painting a galvanized swing set

[nmantas]

When we moved into our house there was an old heavy duty swing set. We now have kids and I want to fix it up. Its at least 20 years old and much heavier than the metal swing sets they sell today. I'm looking for guidance on primers for the galvanized poles (obviously I'd try to remove all rust with an angle grinder with a wire wheel and will also replace rusted hardware) but I've seen paint fall right off of galvanized metal especially in a full sun/full weather environment.

Thanks

 

[iajonesy]

The secret to get paint to stick on galv. material is using the proper primer. We always used zinc chromate in the past. If there is something better let's hear about it.

Mike

 

[tarmy]

You can get spray cans of cold galv paint at welding stores and re spray it.

Careful cleaning the rust off...galv coating contains some nasty stuff. Contain the airborn dust, don't breath it either. I would tarp under it and toss it all when done preping and painting it all...

Do some research...

 

[ambenz]

As you realize, the primer makes the paint job last!
Check out Olympic Galvanized Steel Super Convoy Paint Primer...about $45 to prime the swing set but you can bet the paint will stick till the kids grow into size 10's.



They also make some epoxy paint to cover it all ....

 

[LXCam]

Do some research...

This might be a bit of a reach, but I think that's exactly what he's doing right now.

 

[theoldwizard1]

It looks like the upper part (what currently has paint on it) is from an old THIN tube swing set. I could be heavily rusted on the inside (close to failure). Without some disassembly you just don't know.

The legs are clearly galvanized water pipe. Grinding on galvanized pipe will remove the galvanization. If there is rust on the legs either the galvanization is damaged exposing raw steel or it has been "washed down" from the higher pipes.

Skip the grinder. Wire brush any lose rust off. Clean all of the pipe (soap and water is fine). Apply "rust converter" to the rusty part. After that has dried, apply a good rustproofing primer like Rust-oleum (brush will apply a thicker coat than spray, but multiple spray coats works also). Apply the finish coat. Spray will give you the nicest finish but will require multiple coats.

Galvanized steel is difficult to paint. Some primer will not stick (read the label). You might want to try a self etching primer on the galvanized pipe. Even when well primed and several top coats applied, you will likely see the galvanization "spangle" thru the layers.

 

[metalmagpie]

Here is the real deal about painting galvanized parts. When the part first comes out of the hot dip, you need a special etching primer before you can paint it. Once the part has sat in the air for a year, though, there is no more need. Paint it just like regular.

Brush off the rust and paint it with a kind of paint you will be able to buy several years from now. Every year or so in the spring, knock off any rust that has appeared and touch it up. Don't overthink the problem.

metalmagpie

 

[Dr Stan]

It looks like the upper part (what currently has paint on it) is from an old THIN tube swing set. I could be heavily rusted on the inside (close to failure). Without some disassembly you just don't know.

This is an extremely good point. Do some disassembly and inspect the inside before you invest much time or $.

 

[KenC]

Galvanized specific primers will work. But, so will an acid etch with either dilute muriatic or vinegar. follow that with a water rinse, dry and paint with a good oil based paint. Rustoleum or similar will work fine.

I was told of the Acid wash by an old heat/air/gutter/sheet metal guy years ago. I had a sign on my store that he bent/shaped and treated with muriatic acid. I painted with white rustoleum and applied the vinyl lettering. That was '95, sold the building in 2012, sign looked great still.

Others have recommended self etching primer, it will work but costs more (lots more) and only saves one minor step.

 

[nmantas]

Thanks for so many replies in so short of time (through the middle of the night).

Here is the real deal about painting galvanized parts. When the part first comes out of the hot dip, you need a special etching primer before you can paint it. Once the part has sat in the air for a year, though, there is no more need. Paint it just like regular.

I've read this as well that the weathered galvanized is much easier to paint.

It looks like the upper part (what currently has paint on it) is from an old THIN tube swing set. I could be heavily rusted on the inside (close to failure). Without some disassembly you just don't know.

It appears the cross beam is also galvanized. The two corner brackets (where the three pipes meet) appears to be a different grade. I really wanted to take those parts off and put it in my electrolysis tank but the legs are massively cemented in the ground and I don't think the corner brackets will come out without disturbing the cement or bending the pipe. I think I am going to try though.
I don't think we are close to failure point on those brackets because before the baby swings were installed there were a couple of regular swings and I've seen two adults on them (about 400lbs) and it held up fine.

The secret to get paint to stick on galv. material is using the proper primer. We always used zinc chromate in the past. If there is something better let's hear about it.

Mike

I actually have a quart of unused zinc chromate primer that is probably 40 years old.....wonder if it is still good? (it has also gone through 40 winters)

You can get spray cans of cold galv paint at welding stores and re spray it.

Careful cleaning the rust off...galv coating contains some nasty stuff. Contain the airborn dust, don't breath it either. I would tarp under it and toss it all when done preping and painting it all...

Great point on the dust. I've read that Rustoleum galvanized primer is terrible....bet the welding supply shops have industrial grade ones that are much better.

Galvanized specific primers will work. But, so will an acid etch with either dilute muriatic or vinegar. follow that with a water rinse, dry and paint with a good oil based paint. Rustoleum or similar will work fine.

Others have recommended self etching primer, it will work but costs more (lots more) and only saves one minor step.

Lots of websites just recommend the acid wash first....probably work fine but I'm a bit torn because of the work involved to redo it if does develop problems (strip, reprep, reprime, paint). From what I understand the galvanized primes must go on bare metal to adhere so it would be a no go on the pink (unless stripped/blasted) and also there is some paint on the poles.



After successful primer/paint I will order the new glider parts from Australia and try to make custom cedar benches and backrests from the gondola (basket). It definitely would be easier/cheaper to just replace it but I feel this one is nicer and its cool that my wife or I can jump on and swing with kids because it can hold us up. My yard is definitely too small for one of the large wooden jungle-gym style sets that a lot of people have.

 

[sierradmax]

For what the swing set is worth... rattlecan it...and do so every year or two... Or, if you want a decent bonding primer... Look into STIX.

http://www.insl-x.com/product-detail/inslx-products/stix-waterborne-bonding-primer

For the amount of money you'll spend in prep & products to get a finish to last for years, it will be cheaper to buy a new swing set.

 

[nmantas]

^^^^^Great point and something I should consider, this thing is coming out of the ground and getting scrapped in about 6-8 years anyway.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Here is the real deal about painting galvanized parts. When the part first comes out of the hot dip, you need a special etching primer before you can paint it. Once the part has sat in the air for a year, though, there is no more need. Paint it just like regular.

Good to know !

 

[sberry]

Here is the real deal about painting galvanized parts. When the part first comes out of the hot dip, you need a special etching primer before you can paint it. Once the part has sat in the air for a year, though, there is no more need. Paint it just like regular.

Brush off the rust and paint it with a kind of paint you will be able to buy several years from now. Every year or so in the spring, knock off any rust that has appeared and touch it up. Don't overthink the problem.

metalmagpie

This, scuff it with some purple scotchbrite and paint it with a sponge brush. 2ndly,,,, ity aint rusted from the inside.

 

[yeldogt]

Zinc begins the oxidization process almost immediately after being exposed to the air -- it can take up to two years to fully form the oxides that provide the protection.

You don't want to remove the oxides -- they are not the same as what is going one with aluminum. The oxides actually will hold the paint.

Proper cleaning with a non acid solution and a brush -- ammonia solution w/ some dawn and then a light coat of an etching primer. You don't want to wash with any acid solution. You paint with an low PH paint .. not a high one .... many paints are high PH. SO ...you wash with high and paint with low.

The key is to remove dirt and any grime -- any loose particles.

Personally -- I like the look of Zinc ... and would not paint it ........ I'm doing a zinc roof on part of my new build .... and often have specified zinc gutters for projects.

 

[1redTA]

we used to use phospho to prepare metal for primer and paint

 

[nmantas]

With sierradmax's suggestion of not over doing it I didn't get to crazy with a better than new restoration and we'll see how she holds up.....really only need 6-8 years out of it. Besides galvanizing primer, Rustoleum does have a primer that they claim works on galvanized metal. The primer is called "universal bonding primer" and right on the label it says it sticks to galvanized steel so I went that route based on the observations that the weathered galvanized (oxidized) will have a decent surface to hold paint and not react underneath. I completely disassembled the swing wet (left the cemented in poles in the ground) and brought he rusted end unions to bare metal (they were just steel and not galvanized). I scrubbed the galvanized down with a degreaser detergent (lightly sanded the painted areas) and thoroughly rinsed everything with water. After drying I primed (this primer creates a great matte surface when dried). I then went for hammered silver out of the quart can and a pastel similar to 1950's autos. (wife picked out both colors) I also primed and painted all new hardware. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[TonyG109]

Galvanized metal generally can't be painted with alkyd (oil) based paint as a first coat. An enamel latex primer is called for. Once dry, any compatible paint can be used as a topcoat. I researched this years ago while painting my daughters lacrosse goal. It's been sitting out in the weather rust free with all it's paint still intact. For technical info try Googling galvanized metal and saponification.

It amazes me how many galvanized light poles on the side of highways and parking lots I see with peeling paint!

 

[katilicous]

Thats a nice swingset. We had one when we were kids that made a creak-squeak-pop noise when we swung. The pop was it lifting out of the ground and hopping. Adults need play too. Cool idea.

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