Painting a spray booth

[1930]

Just finishing up installation of this booth, Ive added some extra lights and amenities and now want to be certain that the finish I apply to the interior walls/ceilings will give me optimum results.

I have made an effort to search the internet for suggestions of interior finish products but have found little too nothing.

My original plan was to use a Rustoleum industrial paint purchased from Lowes, I was however concerned with the can instructions in that they did not suggest any sort of primer?

Searching on-line I have read quite a few negative comments concerning this paint, easily scratched off ect. and although the finish will not be subjected to heavy foot traffic Id rather not put anything on it that will easily be scratched off, this sort of paint is what I have spent the last several days removing, God only knows what the last owner put on these spray booth walls.

Dont want to spend a ton of money to get the absolute best but dont want to make any serious mistakes that could have been avoided were I to spend a few extra bucks so I turn to the experts for advice.

As you can see a galvanized metal, there are a few spots at base where there is a very minor amount of surface rust. I have cleaned these areas up the best I could with wire wheel. No rust through anywhere.

Id like to find something that can be rolled/brushed on for ease of application.

Thanks for the advice

 

[bgarrett]

Thats nice. I feel sure that Rustoleum will serve you well. Prime if you want to

 

[Ben Glaser]

There are specialty booth coatings out there that can be peeled off after they get oversprayed and crudded up. Try automotive paint stores and supply houses.

 

[readhead]

We are pretty hard on our booth. We repaint ours about every six to eight months. We use a flat white DTM and we have used Rustoleum with equal results.

I'm a little confused about the brush and roll. It's a spray booth. Why wouldn't you spray it?

 

[1930]

Thanks for the replies, I called Rustoleum today and they told me with a galvanized surface I would need to use an item # 8781402 as a prime coat. Havent looked into it yet but will do so this evening.

I do not have the proper equipment to spray on this particular paint so I.E the brush and roller.

 

[countryroad82]

You have me quite confused there, you have a paint booth but nothing to spray paint with?

 

[homebuilt burner]

We used a spray booth coating and reapplied once a year. I don't remember the name. Our booth was a similar design (galvanized metal). Talk to your paint supplier.

 

[MTW]

Have a look here for peelable booth coatings, pretty standard in the painting world.
http://www.binks.com/products/consumables/peelable-booth-coating-covers/booth-coat-white

http://3mcollision.com/products/dirt-trap-protection-systems/3m-booth-coating-06839.html

If you want any paint to stick to clean galvanized you need to use an acid etching primer or a primer listed for galvanized, many of them (brushable types) want an oxidized surface underneath. I have used Sherwin Williams industrial etching primer for years and it bonds well to all metal types, it goes on very thin, translucent green, and is excellent for tenacious bonding and about any topcoat you want to use over it, but it must be applied with a sprayer.

I have wired booths for many years, best lighting of objects for good painting results is with white wall and either the clear peelable or white coatings given earlier.

MTW Ω

 

[1930]

You have me quite confused there, you have a paint booth but nothing to spray paint with?

Unless Im missing something Im under the assumption that it would not be wise to attempt to spray house paint ( Rustoleum ) through a high dollar dollar Sata gun set up with a 1.4 tip.

 

[countryroad82]

Unless Im missing something Im under the assumption that it would not be wise to attempt to spray house paint ( Rustoleum ) through a high dollar dollar Sata gun set up with a 1.4 tip.

Rustoleum is basically old school synthetic enamel, so if you plan on shooting pretty much any single stages your shooting a version of Rustoleum, just not as cheap as it. I use Devilbiss GTI guns for color/clear, at the time of purchase they were right at $550 each. I bought 2, one for sealer and color and one only for clear so I have a pretty good idea of the kind of investment one can have in guns alone. Never felt the need to upgrade yet to Sata, Iwata, or whatever is the hot new gun manufacture yet because nothing is wrong with mine. But all I was meaning is I found it weird one could have a paint booth and no way to spray paint. Heck before I beat my head in the wall rolling paint, I would be using my primer gun or go buy a cheap gun if I were afraid of messing up my guns. Nothing that a good cleaning won't fix after one sprays ANY paint, I just like to hurry up and get done so I can move to the next project.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Anyone use booth grease in large booths? The grease attracts overspray and is scraped off and replaced every 6-12 months (or as needed). The booths I took from our old plant were covered in the stuff and the galvanized steel under it was like brand new.

The grease was red, so what may appear to be rust is actually grease.
(picture links to a page with several pictures)


The price was right = $0, so I just had to take it.

 

[94EG8]

Unless Im missing something Im under the assumption that it would not be wise to attempt to spray house paint ( Rustoleum ) through a high dollar dollar Sata gun set up with a 1.4 tip.

Get a cheap gun to run the Rustoleum through. You certainly can thin it down and run it through the gun you have, but it's an expensive gun to potentially screw up. I picked up a cheap Power Fist (Princess Auto) HVLP gun for $18 on sale that I use for spraying epoxy, it works well for the price. Or you can spend more money on a Protek which is actually a pretty decent gun (I use mine for base/clear) for about $170.

There are specialty booth coatings out there that can be peeled off after they get oversprayed and crudded up. Try automotive paint stores and supply houses.

Liquid mask. There's a heavy version of this stuff, it ***** for using on cars, but it works great for paint booths. Put it on after the booth is painted and dry. Hose it off when it gets dirty and reapply.

 

[johninct]

Why would Rustoleum screw up a gun? It is old school enamel. I Just mix it 4:1 with reducer.

 

[94EG8]

Why would Rustoleum screw up a gun? It is old school enamel. I Just mix it 4:1 with reducer.

It wont if you clean it right. Usually once you get into a Sata gun you keep a gun strictly for 1 thing though. We have about 8 of them at work. A couple for base, a couple for clear, I think we have one for primer, one for sealer and a couple of backups for base and clear.

 

[1930]

Rustoleum is basically old school synthetic enamel, so if you plan on shooting pretty much any single stages your shooting a version of Rustoleum, just not as cheap as it. I use Devilbiss GTI guns for color/clear, at the time of purchase they were right at $550 each. I bought 2, one for sealer and color and one only for clear so I have a pretty good idea of the kind of investment one can have in guns alone. Never felt the need to upgrade yet to Sata, Iwata, or whatever is the hot new gun manufacture yet because nothing is wrong with mine. But all I was meaning is I found it weird one could have a paint booth and no way to spray paint. Heck before I beat my head in the wall rolling paint, I would be using my primer gun or go buy a cheap gun if I were afraid of messing up my guns. Nothing that a good cleaning won't fix after one sprays ANY paint, I just like to hurry up and get done so I can move to the next project.

You seem to know more about these products than I do. My Satas are the 2000 series, maybe 12 years old and far from the latest and greatest but they work fine for me and I have never been one to keep up with the jonses.

Just for the heck of it I did try the primer today in an old gravity feed primer gun I had laying around and surprisingly it sprayed pretty good, I thought for sure the consistency would be to thick straight out of the can but it was not.

Do not know what size tip the thing has.

I will still however roll it on though I think because I feel that more paint will end up where I want it and not where I do not.

 

[1930]

It wont if you clean it right. Usually once you get into a Sata gun you keep a gun strictly for 1 thing though. We have about 8 of them at work. A couple for base, a couple for clear, I think we have one for primer, one for sealer and a couple of backups for base and clear.

I have the Rainbow for my solid colors, a digital 2000 for my metallics another for my clears and the mini jamb as well, they are good guns, I have a decent sharpe gun for my sealers and a no name for the primers.

Cutting corners on guns from the sealers up will only have a negative affect on the final finish as it sounds like you guys are aware.

 

[1930]

It wont if you clean it right. Usually once you get into a Sata gun you keep a gun strictly for 1 thing though. We have about 8 of them at work. A couple for base, a couple for clear, I think we have one for primer, one for sealer and a couple of backups for base and clear.

Cant bring myself to clean my paint guns out with water.

 

[toplessHO]

universal catalyst with the oleum will help. I use 8:1
then the premask once its cured.
buy a HF $30 HVLP gun and paint away.

 

[southview]

where in Florida are you located?