Painting Advice

[Craftsman86]

I have been in the process of restoring a couple older tool boxes, and have tried everything from the single stage paint clear coat combo to using rattle can and everything in between. My question Is it necessary to use a clear coat over a rattle can paint job? If so what do I stand to gain by applying it? I have had great luck with the sunrise red rustoleum and the paint center associate advised that the paint is heavily mixed with a gloss finish in the cans as well as the quart cans that is why it is so much cheaper (and takes more coats to cover) than does a high end PPG paint in the same color. Furthering their point they indicated how much clear or filler as he called it goes into the $50 quart compared to the $180 quart of the same color paint. If there is an abundance of clear mixed in the formula would you need to apply it after the material drys or is there going to be a minimal gain from doing do?

On my current box I am restoring I have found that after several weeks of the finish drying a finger nail run across it will leave marks in the finish. If this can be avoided by adding a couple more coats of clear coat I will happily apply it, but if it is not going to be a benefit I don't see the time and money spent as a constructive use of my time.

What do you guys think?

 

[Zeke]

Your writing is a tough read. But, I think I see what the answer is. Don't use anything over rattle can paint. Don't use paints that aren't part of a factory system together. That may be why your paint is soft.

I hope my answers are clearer than your questions.

 

[Farmall450]

Talk to the guy that started this thread...he's got it down.

 

[Craftsman86]

I was reading that thread before I posted. That is what prompted me to ask for opinions on paint and clear coat over the top.

Sorry my post was a little bit all over the place, that's a prime example what happens when you don't proof read what you type.

 

[ilovevocs]

Rattle can paint is a low solids paint. Thus the low cost and poor durability. The spray can is low pressure, paint must be reduced to spray / atomize at said low pressure. The lack of binder required to create a low viscosity, economical, sprayable finish results in poor durability. This is a case of getting what you pay for. The clear lends little by way of durability because it is of the same poor (pun intended) compositional nature. Some auto-body jobbers offer high(er) end paints and clears in a spray can; this may be something worth considering.

 

[zkling]

My question Is it necessary to use a clear coat over a rattle can paint job?

No, and personally I wouldn't recommend it.

If so what do I stand to gain by applying it?

To answer this, you must fully understand what a clear coat does. It is designed to add a depth illusion to the paint color. As well as add protection from oxidation and the like by concealing the base or color coat from the elements. Is this necessary on a tool box, probably not. Will it make it look better? You bet.

If there is an abundance of clear mixed in the formula would you need to apply it after the material drys or is there going to be a minimal gain from doing do?

I am 99% sure the sales guy was just blowing smoke. You need to understand what rustoleum is. It is a cheap paint that "cures" by evaporation and oxidization. Unlike true urethane paints that really cure due to a chemical reaction (paint & hardener mix).

Is this bad, no, but you get what you pay for. I use rustoleum quite a bit for painting machines and other stuff around the house. It works just fine for this, especially at the price point. The best method I have found for a rustoleum paint job is to use a quart can of paint, thinned slightly with acetone and then spray it with a gun. The cans are just sooooo thin. The trick to rustoleum is that it needs to be put on in VERY lite coats. Again it has no hardener, so the thicker it is the longer it will take for the different solvents to evaporate. The additional acetone helps with this process.

Some folks have even added hardeners to rustoleum. I personally have not done this, and don't really plan on doing this, as most hardeners are very harmful to your respiratory system. I don't have a booth, but do use a basic respirator.

On my current box I am restoring I have found that after several weeks of the finish drying a finger nail run across it will leave marks in the finish.

Could be a combo of things, location, humidity, temp, prep. But more than likely you are putting it on in too thick of coats.

What do you guys think?

Rustoleum is what it is. Can you get some great results? sure. But it is a completely different paint than almost anything else. With the proper prep and application it will provide a very serviceable paint job for a tool box or the like and do what paint is supposed to do, protect the base metal.

 

[chipper]

I always do being a body guy its just a way of life the finish is great anf adds a level of durability you can get a gallon of clear for less then 100$ and it will go a long way doing small jobs like that

 

[cburnscrx]

Rattle can paint is a low solids paint. Thus the low cost and poor durability. The spray can is low pressure, paint must be reduced to spray / atomize at said low pressure. The lack of binder required to create a low viscosity, economical, sprayable finish results in poor durability. This is a case of getting what you pay for. The clear lends little by way of durability because it is of the same poor (pun intended) compositional nature. Some auto-body jobbers offer high(er) end paints and clears in a spray can; this may be something worth considering.

This^^^

Don't sell rattle cans short, especially not when you have the paint mixed then put into cans at a paint and body supply place. I've painted plenty of car parts (fenders, bumpers, ect) using rattle cans and I defy you to tell the different between a factory finish (at minimum) and my DIY rattle can job.