Painting Aluminum

[Rich M.]

Over the years, the aluminum sidelights on each side of my front door have faded. I would like paint them. Not exactly sure what the correct process is for the project.

Years ago, I painted my aluminum mailbox using a spray can metal primer followed up with a white metal can spray paint. Unfortunately, the paint basically developed chips that separated from the mailbox. So I am not sure what paint(s) or process might be best.

Also, would it be best to use a sprayer for this paint project? I have never had the need to use a sprayer in the past, so this could be an interesting endeavor.

 

[nadogail]

For small jobs like Mailboxes and Light Fixtures, I have found Rattle Cans to be very nice.

 

[tncatadjuster]

You can achieve great results, prep like you have $$ sprayer and then
use spray can. Verify cans are good then prime and two coats.

 

[Spareparts]

Use a product called XIM Flash Bond, I have used it many times for Aluminum, fiberglass,steel, even glass. painted some airport crash trucks and they had heacy glass panels inside they wanted painted, we used it and you couldnot scrape it off with a razor blade
Do a google search for it comes in qts,gallons and I think they have it in spray cans.

 

[Shiftless]

When I painted some aluminum window trim, I first used an acid etch before the primer.
Chromic acid if I remember right. (which is often doubtful)

 

[jhelrey]

Self Etch Primer. Rustoleum paint.

 

[rayra]

Definitely will need to get teh scaling / oxidation removed before priming and paint, or it will promptly fail again.

 

[Rich M.]

Definitely will need to get teh scaling / oxidation removed before priming and paint, or it will promptly fail again.

What is the normal process for this? My painting has been limited to wallboard and wood doors/trim.

 

[mike93lx]

Having it bead blasted would get it all off and save a lot of sanding

 

[ez-duzit]

Prepare the surface using 3M maroon ScotchBright. Then Alumiprep 33. Then zinc chromate primer. Sand. Then you can apply your rattle can finish.

 

[CraigStu]

Rattle can can be great but..it's best to use the best you can find. I have had great results w/ Rustoleum products but there may be even better specialty paints out there too. Be aware that there are auto paint suppliers that can mix paint and put it in a rattle can for you. They can go by auto paint code or match the sample you take to them. They usually also have primers and clears too. A nozzle that provides a fan pattern is best. One that allows that fan pattern to be rotated is even better. Never start your spray on the item being painted. Start your spray off the one end and run it until you are off the other end.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Like any paint job, preparation is key ! Make certain the ambient temp is high enough.

• If at all possible, remove all of the old finish.
• Wipe clean with some kind of solvent
• Mask off the are you don't wanted painted
• Use rattle can self-etching. Follow the directions, especially time between prime and finish coats.
• Any name brand top coat. Multiple light coats. Follow the directions, especially time between coats.

 

[PWC Repair]

Self Etch Primer. Rustoleum paint.

Yes, bare aluminum requires an etching primer.

 

[Rich M.]

I see that Rustoleum makes an etching primer and an aluminum primer. So for me painting my aluminum white sidelight which one might be best to use? My plan is to sand, but not sure how close I will get to bare aluminum.

 

[mv213]

I see that Rustoleum makes an etching primer and an aluminum primer. So for me painting my aluminum white sidelight which one might be best to use? My plan is to sand, but not sure how close I will get to bare aluminum.

I used the Rustoleum aluminum primer when I had to repaint the side of my teardrop trailer after doing some mods. Some of it was down to bare aluminum, and some still had factory paint. It worked great.

 

[PWC Repair]

Aluminum is a tricky metal. It's surface is "slick" and paint doesn't like to stick to slick surfaces. A regular aluminum primer has resins in it to "glue" the primer to the surface. It's more like epoxy primer. The etching primer has a light amount of acid in it which "etches" the bare metal to give the primer grip on the surface. I'd bet that either will work just fine on a clean and sanded surface. I prefer the etching primer on bare aluminum.

 

[Jazz1]

Ive primed with epoxy primer with great results but as other point out i should have used an etching primer or i wil go straight to hell. Id painted aluminum fuel tanks on semi cuz polishing aluminum *****,,,,unless you have some ambitious children\

 

[nbpt100]

If you are down to bare aluminum I would use the etching primer. It removes the surface oxide that quickly forms on aluminum. I saw the Rustoleum aluminum primer at one of the box stores this week end. It was in a can and you brush or spray it on with your own equipment. I am not sure how it works. A spray finish will look nicer as a brushed on may leave brush marks.

I would think it is just like painting Aluminum wheels.

In the end you may want to seek advice from a paint store. It seems like every town has one. Not the paint desk at a box store. Most of those guy are not well versed in much other that mix and tinting paint.

 

[HogDude]

Since you haven't mentioned budget, how about Powder Coat? Or even Cerakote?

 

[Rich M.]

Since you haven't mentioned budget, how about Powder Coat? Or even Cerakote?

The area to be painted are two sidelights one on each side of the main entrance door. Each sidelight is about 15 inches wide with a window, so the actual paintable surface is relativity small.

Not sure if power coating is an option.

 

[ez-duzit]

The problem with powder coating is it's not repairable when it fails.

Forget about self-etching primer and use the Alumiprep.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Having repainted more than a few aluminum bodied cars and several planes I'll share a couple of thoughts. First off if you are down to bare aluminum you either need to use an Al treatment like Alodine or something similar (Ospho works in a pinch) or sand it with 180 then immediately coat it. Bare AL starts oxidizing immediately and if you wait longer than 12 hours or so from treatment/sanding to application then you affect adhesion. I realize this may be overkill for something trim related to a house but if you want something to last you need to do it correctly.

 

[rockettauto]

Scotchbrite, alodine 1201, paint. Alternatively zinc chromate primer.

 

[ZRX61]

The area to be painted are two sidelights one on each side of the main entrance door. Each sidelight is about 15 inches wide with a window, so the actual paintable surface is relativity small.

Not sure if power coating is an option.

Just mask it off & rattle can it with rustoleum. No need to bother with all the priming ********. Just wipe it with something & spray.

 

[CudaChick1968]

Back in 2009 I bought new front door hardware and a new porch light in styles I liked despite being different finishes. I chose a slightly metallic silver from my in-stock colors, blasted and prepped everything and powder coated it all. A clear powder finished the job providing UV stability and additional durability.

Here's what it all looks like tonight fourteen years later.

The problem with powder coating is it's not repairable when it fails.

Forget about self-etching primer and use the Alumiprep.

< wink > When the job's done right from the start, failure is greatly postponed or avoided completely.

 

[Steve_P]

You need to blast or sand the metal to provide some texture if you want it to last. That part is mandatory IMO. Then pick your paint choice.

 

[HogDude]

Back in 2009 I bought new front door hardware and a new porch light in styles I liked despite being different finishes. I chose a slightly metallic silver from my in-stock colors, blasted and prepped everything and powder coated it all. A clear powder finished the job providing UV stability and additional durability.

Here's what it all looks like tonight fourteen years later.





< wink > When the job's done right from the start, failure is greatly postponed or avoided completely.

Thanks CC! I worked at AT&T (back in the 90's when they did actual manufacturing) and assembled telecommunications cabinets. The engineer claimed the industrial powder coat had a 20 year expected lifetime. 20 years of UV and all the weather imaginable. Like your hardware, I'm kind of a do it right once and move on guy. Not sure what the cerakote can deliver but if it holds up on firearms, headers etc. I would think it would serve some well.

 

[CudaChick1968]

@HogDude, Cerakote is pretty amazing.

Keep in mind though there are LOTS of different formulations -- firearms, high temp exhaust, thermal barrier and dry film lubricants for engine internals, trim, aerospace, polished metals, etc., etc. -- so research is necessary to find the best product for your application.

Don't confuse Cerakote (the first and best in the industry) with the more recent "ceramic" finishes for paint jobs, trim, headlight restoration, PVD/fake chrome and stuff which are temporary and basically a slight upgrade to decent car wax.

Cerakote can also be done at home if you have a compressor, a means to prep / blast / wash / dry the parts, wire or hooks to suspend parts, and an HVLP gun with a .08 mm tip. Marketed as The World's Strongest Clear Coat, some require baking but a good many dry in open air; a little bit goes a LONG way so it's efficient; leftovers can be returned to the container and stored in the fridge for longevity; and a 4 ounce tester (i.e., enough for a set of polished wheels) is $35 so it's not a huge expense. They sell to the public.

https://www.cerakote.com/

Feel free to call me if you have questions! I'm by no means a Cerakote expert beyond polished metals and high temp exhaust (got my hands full with powder) but am happy to share what I can.

 

[dougf]

Any of the single stage products in a rattle can are going to be attacked by UV and degrade quickly. If you want a long term finish it's going to be a two part system with a clear. They come in rattle cans with the activator inside now too.

 

[nbpt100]

Any of the single stage products in a rattle can are going to be attacked by UV and degrade quickly. If you want a long term finish it's going to be a two part system with a clear. They come in rattle cans with the activator inside now too.

I am not familiar with such a product. Can you provide an example of a product like this by name? Thanks.

 

[dougf]

I am not familiar with such a product. Can you provide an example of a product like this by name? Thanks.

Sure, here's one example of a 2k product with activator in a rattle can: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/?tag=atomicindus08-20