painting chrome

[duc916]

I have a motorcycle headlight housing that is chromed plated. Chrome is in good shape, but I want to paint it black. Does anyone have experience painting over chrome?

 

[CJM8515]

I would plastidip it. Anything else will eventually flake off unless you scuff it a lot and even then it still might. Other option is powdercoat.

 

[driz]

I would plastidip it. Anything else will eventually flake off unless you scuff it a lot and even then it still might. Other option is powdercoat.

I agree. On the plastidip ? Nothing is going to stick well to Chrome unless you scratch hell out of it. That’s a one way trip and you’ll never be able to go back again if you don’t like it.

 

[DFB]

I bead blasted several chromed parts before I painted them black, a sissy bar, license plate bracket back when I was cleaning up my old shovelhead during its first restore, painted some other parts black too but they weren't plated

 

[countryroad82]

Blast it, etch/epoxy prime, then paint. Anything else and I’ll guarantee it will flake.

 

[Abeo]

I have some chrome wheels that were plastidipped then painted. Still holding strong after a couple years... the paint firms up the plastidip somewhat, but it still is rubbery underneath. I still consider it a temporary coating though, the permanent way is how Countryroad82 states.

 

[duc916]

Thanks for the help.

 

[like2wheel]

Back in the stone age, I once painted a chrome bumper by sandblasting it, etch, then just lacquer primer surfacer & lacquer color. Held up fine for the next 15 years till I sold it.

 

[astroracer]

It's easy to do IF you don't want to save the chrome. Soft pad with 120 grit on a D/A to remove the chrome. 400 grit to prep for self-etching primer (epoxy primer will work but I like the self-etching just because I know it will not peel off). Primer/surfacer, block, paint.
Mark

 

[Backwodsurvivor]

I can't stand how plastidip looks after a winter or a few years in easier conditions. Someone please hit me if I ever buy it again...

I did paint a set of 20" take offs for my truck 3 years ago.

Clean the hell out of it. Scuff it with scotch brite. Clean it again. Self etching primer followed by paint. Clear coat. Use proper name brand paints.

I've put 30,000 miles on them and the only scratches are from the lazy clown running the tire machine.

I've also had buddies who do straight paint and just touch it up every few months...

 

[77thor]

I used Plastidip on a chrome rear bumper for a pickup truck...
I put on 3 coats and it has lasted 5 years already.
I would do it again.

 

[imok]

I sanded a chrome spotlight, primed and painted black. Never flaked the 5 years that I owned it, always looked good.

 

[az45]

Steel-it, I've been using it for years and its now available in black. Its super durable like powder coat, but you can weld through it if needed. Prep with 40 - 60 grit, sticks like crazy.

Google it, you wont find a bad review.

https://www.upr.com/i-23436830-steel-it-14oz-black.html

 

[Rattle]

I have painted chrome wheels and lots of motorcycle parts with good luck. Scuff it good with fine grit sandpaper and clean with rubbing alcohol and paint away. Holds up decent.

 

[CudaChick1968]

One thing that no one asked is, how old is the headlight housing? There are VAST differences between a good triple-plated (nickel / copper / chromium) chrome job and what manufacturers are using as "chrome" over the last few years ... doing it the right way will last decades while the newer chrome will often pit, flake, delaminate from the substrate and come off in sheets within only a few months of manufacture. I've even surprisingly removed it just with my blow gun more than once.

Yesterday I finished up an old (80s I'm guessing) Hurst four-speed shift lever that was originally well chromed with the nickel and copper base. It had been either repaired or heated up and bent at some point in the past (note the discoloration near the bottom). The bezels are pot metal.






I lightly blasted it being careful not to cut through the copper -- it makes a beautiful base for powder -- sprayed out some gloss black and finished up the logos with a metallic light green to match my customer's interior.








It can be done!

 

[Hammer1963]

No need to paint this headlight bucket. Use vinyl. It works wonderful for this type of application. Chip resistant and can be removed at any time. No drips or runs to worry about either!

 

[kszach]

powder coat it. No prep work, fantastic results.

 

[zmotorsports]

I used to do this quite a lot on sand rail and ATV parts as I liked the looks of mixed chrome and paint. I even did it on some snowmobile suspension parts on my personal sleds.

Mask off where you want the paint to be then breathe over the area with about 120 grit sandpaper or disc to gain a mechanical tooth for the primer to adhere. I would then use PPG DP48 (or 40 or 90 depending on color) as it is an epoxy primer. I would slightly over reduce the epoxy primer. Then within about 24-48 hours apply a couple light coats of K38 urethane primer/surfacer. After wet sanding the primer surface I would apply another light coat of over-reduced DP48 as a sealer then a couple medium coats of urethane paint followed by a couple coats of DC2021 clearcoat and it would look like a million bucks and it held up well.

It was a lot of work but netted show quality results.