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Painting drywall

Rt jam

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I have just hung up drywall in my garage. With light reflection and a little dirt repellent in mind I have contemplated painting the ceiling and walls.

Considered skipping the tape, mud and sanding.

What paint would you recommend and is primer necessary?
 
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Todd.Brock

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Yeah, don’t skip this step. It’s gonna look like well painted unfinished drywall. Aka like ***. If it’s a money thing, drywall mud and a couple knives are pretty cheap. If it’s a time thing, a finisher would be pretty cheap too.


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Rt jam

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Ya, I guess the look is just a personal thing. It's all better than before, I looked at bare studs for 15 years. I did do inside my house with all the proper steps but this is just my garage.

Why a semi or satin. Is high gloss a no no?
 

pmiranda

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Compared to flat grey drywall, semi-gloss white will be fantastic. If you don't care what it looks like, I still think that attempting to tape and mud it is worth it to get the experience, unless you're already a pro and just really don't want to spend the time.
I did enough minor work in my old garage that I have been able to do decent looking repairs in my new house and garage. Getting texture right is the hardest part, but I rarely see garages that have anything other than plain and flat.
 

harley jim

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The reason I said semi gloss was when you go to high gloss the price of the paint goes way up. The ideal paint would be high gloss if you dont mind paying the price or can find a deal on it. Please post pics of your progress. Jim

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mike93lx

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high gloss and semi gloss will show every imperfection and look like garbage, but it is easier to clean.

satin is the highest sheen that I use for anything.

I agree on mudding and taping. you can't go back and do it the same after painting and you won't regret it. skip it now and at some point, you'll regret not doing it right.
 

gunguy

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Another factor to consider is fire code. My understanding is that seams must be at least taped and have one coat of mud to meet code. If you go that far, then you might as well do the job right.

I'm not 100% sure on the above so I ask our firefighters on the board to weigh in.

Jim
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Another factor to consider is fire code. My understanding is that seams must be at least taped and have one coat of mud to meet code.

This ^^^^ is paramount!!! Especially if the garage is attached to the house. If it's a stand alone- not as important, but your ins. co. will love you for it- and you will too!
 

ard

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Another important function of drywalll/paint that MANY people (ie DIYers in garage.shop projects) is that this acts as a vapor barrier.

When yoiu drywall, then tape, then paint- the paint is an impermeable & airtight layer. This keeps air in the room. Warm air, that will always pick up a bit of moisture.

If you have open tape joints, this air will move into the walls- just a bit- and when it hits the outer, cooler layers, it will condense, leaving moisture.

You’ve been warned. Its not just ‘personal taste’. IMO

in terms of ‘paint’. Ive used semigloss and gloss. I dont use cheap paint, but I have a commercial account.

GL!
 

Chevy-SS

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Personally, for a garage, I would do as others say.... tape and mud. You can use the wet sponge method to smooth out the mud and eliminate vast majority of the dust.

For paint.... my God, don't use glossy paint... that will show everything. I'd use a high quality flat paint (one that can be cleaned), which will help hide your less-than-perfect finishing job on the mudding.
 

RegeSullivan

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I'm in the tape and mud camp. Besides looking better, as someone else mentioned it helps lessen air infiltration and keeps some insects and small critters outside (or in the walls) where they belong. While I agree gloss looks like *** unless it is a level 5 finish it is easy to wipe clean so there is that. My big problem with gloss paint is most shops/garages is the lighting is harsh enough as it is, reflecting off gloss paint makes it even worse. Id do a semi, satin or eggshell finish and not worry if it wipes clean or not. Most of the **** that hits my garage walls don't wipe off gloss paint anyway.
 

nadogail

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FWIW, any advice you get from me is guaranteed to be worth exactly what you paid for it.

1. Self adhesive tape and premixed mud will make your look Half Professional, rather than rotten.
2. PVA or any drywall primer will be a great improvement. Kilz over old redwood and no finish coat will bleed through in about 8 years.
3. Paint comes in three grades, Good, Better and Best. I would use Better grade eggshell, but some like semi gloss.
4. Texture coating hides a lot of sins.
5. Have somebody spray the paint on with an Airless, goes fast and uses less paint than a roller or a brush.
 

dreamingmuscle

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Another important function of drywalll/paint that MANY people (ie DIYers in garage.shop projects) is that this acts as a vapor barrier.

When yoiu drywall, then tape, then paint- the paint is an impermeable & airtight layer. This keeps air in the room. Warm air, that will always pick up a bit of moisture.

If you have open tape joints, this air will move into the walls- just a bit- and when it hits the outer, cooler layers, it will condense, leaving moisture.

You’ve been warned. Its not just ‘personal taste’. IMO

in terms of ‘paint’. Ive used semigloss and gloss. I dont use cheap paint, but I have a commercial account.

GL!

This!!!!!!!
 

dantecl

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I was in the same situation in my previous house, and ended up going the mile with tape mud and a good coat of Kilz primer. I was glad I did, after everything was done.
 

Vahispd

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Subscribed for pics and the advice!

My garage has one wall covered in pegboard and I'm insulating and hanging drywall next week, so very timely thread.
 

Milzo

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I just got done painting my garage. mine was already taped for smooth walls. new house 3 years ago. Sherwin Williams & a painter friend highly recommended using primer before paint, not the primer & paint in one. So I put 1 coat of primer on the ceiling and walls then one coat of paint. I had SW tint the primer for the walls. I used satin resilience exterior paint since the garage is not always heated and has large temperature swings.
 

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Lennyzx11

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I hated tape and mudding. But you really should do it. It will look like **** if not. Better to not even paint it. Cover it up with white pegboard then.

A couple of videos on YouTube and off I went. It wasn’t bad at all.
Two beer job.

Here’s my opinion.

You can do it and it’s not that bad.
Three days total (and not all day)
Just needs that time to dry between.

Very little sanding if you do it right. (I hate sanding worse of all)


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Philpug

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I am getting the bug to paint my garage (3 car). It is already drywalled and taped but very rough and lets just say "construction grade" with a good amount of ins and outs. I am debating bringing in a local handyman who has done work for us in the past and is reasonable..and good or doing it myself.
 

spudley

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I'll go with the majority, mud and tape, use drywall primer and as the professional lighting guru Platonic Solid recommends, topcoat with an eggshell finish.

Lots of talk of using semi or high gloss so it's easier to clean. I want to meet the guys (make that guy) that's ever washed his garage walls or ceiling.
 

spudley

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I hated tape and mudding. But you really should do it. It will look like **** if not. Better to not even paint it. Cover it up with white pegboard then.

A couple of videos on YouTube and off I went. It wasn’t bad at all.
Two beer job.

Here’s my opinion.

You can do it and it’s not that bad.
Three days total (and not all day)
Just needs that time to dry between.

Very little sanding if you do it right. (I hate sanding worse of all)


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Yep, agree with this except the two beers, unless he's doing a dollhouse...:beer:
 
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Rt jam

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Thank you for the replies. I was not too worried about sealing it, I used vapour barrier. As for looks, well, it's just a garage and I have so much stuff, it will hide most of the wall.

My son is helping with the insulation, vapour barrier and drywall. We had to use the leftover 24' insulation in the front wall and I need to buy a couple more sheets to do the front wall. Then it's tape, mud, sand, primer and paint time.

To him, it's the best the garage has been in 15 years and since everything is out in the driveway, it's easy to see why we just want to call it done.

With that said, I will mud and primer it. The wife and daughter offered to help so it's a go.
 

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Fatboy148

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If you weren't planning to, you might want to add a few more screws in the sheets before you start finishing. I usually place my screws in groups of two, spaced about two inches apart in the field and a group of two every 12"-16". The groups of two will help avoid pops in the future. Running vertical as you did, on the edge of the sheet, I would put one screw at least every 8-10".
 

driftpin

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You might want to consider a double-layer of 5/8" type-X on any wall contiguous to the house. If it's ever-needed for fire-resistance, you'll be glad you did. One layer is code, that is minimum-prescriptive. More, is better. It won't be that-expensive. Stagger seams. Tape both layers and mud, for best fire-resistance.

Here is a sheet referencing the IRC, which covers 1-family residential. Always consult with your AHJ for confirmation.

https://mybuildingpermit.com/sites/...Tip Sheet 6 Residential Garage Separation.pdf

Retired career firefighter, fire inspector, fire plans examiner, I still carry my valid certs.
 

J5hort

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I am planning on drywall in the garage this summer. 5/8 fire board is already on ceiling as there is a living space above and was needed to pass code. I think insulation and drywall on the walls, but was looking for a convering that could be applied in the place of paint. Has anyone considered applying any type of sheet material over drywall? Maybe something that would hold up to any liquids or other that garage work might introduce. If anything something that can be wiped down or washed easy.
 

mike93lx

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I am planning on drywall in the garage this summer. 5/8 fire board is already on ceiling as there is a living space above and was needed to pass code. I think insulation and drywall on the walls, but was looking for a convering that could be applied in the place of paint. Has anyone considered applying any type of sheet material over drywall? Maybe something that would hold up to any liquids or other that garage work might introduce. If anything something that can be wiped down or washed easy.

FRP is commonly used in commercial settings.
 

gerbilunit

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Primer made my paint go on much more evenly. I'm not a painter by any means, but having a consistent colored surface to paint on was well worth it.
 
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Rt jam

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How did I let you talk me into this. The dust!

I have a fan blowing in the window making positive pressure inside the garage. In an effort to make air leave the garage and bring the dust with it.

Was also running my Shop Vac in the same direction. Suction hose outside and the unit inside blowing the exhaust in the room, pushing air towards the big door. Not too bad inside but my black car in the driveway, oh my.

We will be doing a final sand, hopefully. Then primer and paint tomorrow.
 

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mike93lx

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I have a Manual sander with a vac attachment and a powered one with the same. Never again sanding without one or other. The dust control is great
 

pmiranda

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I have a drywall sander on a pole for doing ceilings and just put the pole in the shop vac tube... nearly all the dust gets captured but it's not perfect. Couldn't find a proper sander with vac attachment but I'd definitely want one for doing more than patches.
I think you can also just sponge it before it sets up 100% to get most of the finish right.
 

harley jim

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Rt jam
That looks good from here.
I put about 4 coats on mine, I was using up left over paint that would have gone to waste and finished with a white semi gloss.
Glad you got it done [emoji106][emoji481][emoji481]e119e35f01783000364bdfe5de83dc88.jpg3bdb68e01caeaa8dcacdf03030bee5f0.jpg

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Lennyzx11

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that's why I love my powered drywall sanders. :bounce:



I’ve used this for three or four jobs. Very little mess. I like the 100 grit screen for first pass. Then 220 if I’m really trying. Which isn’t very often. Hmmm... my post count wouldn’t let me do the link thingy.

This is on Amazon. 25 bucks.

HYDE 09170 Dust Free Drywall Vacuum Sander Kit


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mike93lx

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I’ve used this for three or four jobs. Very little mess. I like the 100 grit screen for first pass. Then 220 if I’m really trying. Which isn’t very often. Hmmm... my post count wouldn’t let me do the link thingy.

This is on Amazon. 25 bucks.

HYDE 09170 Dust Free Drywall Vacuum Sander Kit


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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M2WSHY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Same one I have. Works awesome
 

Fatboy148

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If you weren't planning to, you might want to add a few more screws in the sheets before you start finishing. I usually place my screws in groups of two, spaced about two inches apart in the field and a group of two every 12"-16". The groups of two will help avoid pops in the future. Running vertical as you did, on the edge of the sheet, I would put one screw at least every 8-10".

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1000071&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1587258471

Silly boy, screwing off is soooo easy compared to the rest of the job and fixing it is much harder than doing it right the first time. When you get pops from attaching stuff on the walls/ceiling or when your ceiling sags, don't say "I wonder why it did that", because you were warned.....
 
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