panel siding as shear

[cslye]

Been working with contractor on getting quote for my 28x38 build. After the final contract came back, and the math of all the options the sticker shock set in and I had to go back and ask if there was anything that could help shave some costs down.

The one suggestion he had was to remove the cement boards and use panel siding instead and this would help reduce the framing costs also as it would act as the shear.

My question is just how good/bad of an idea is this? I am insulating the building as I will have an office in there with an ac. I am wondering how this will impact the ability for the building to stay cool/warm or any other issues there may be.

 

[Graham08]

The problem I would have with it is mostly aesthetic...I just don't care for the look of T-111 panels. Plus you would have ongoing maintenance painting it every few years. I don't think it would make a huge difference in the R-value of an insulated wall.

 

[CNGsaves]

+1 that the look of vertical siding is detriment versus concrete siding. The Hardiboard concrete siding would be very low maintenance.

Maybe your contractor has portfolio of pictures that you can see other garages built with each exterior sheeting, so can make your decision.

With mild temperatures of Sacramento, CA the difference between the two exterior treatments won't make much difference on your heating or cooling.

Curious what kind of quotes you are getting??

 

[KiltLifter]

Here's an idea, what if you replaced the interior drywall in all of the corners with T-111 or smooth ply, wouldn't that give you the shear you need? One problem with it is that it is combustible, so depending on code (and whether it's attached, doesn't sound like it) it may or may not be legal. When I added OSB to my interior it was actually cheaper than drywall. It would be hard to finish nicely, but I just painted it. Plus, you can put a screw ANYWHERE without worrying about catching a stud (for lighter stuff).

+1 on the quote curiosity.

 

[ddawg16]

Here is a bigger problem...if your plans are asking for say an A shear wall....if you use anything less than Struct 1 plywood or SOB, then it wont' fly with the inspection.

If your trying to cut corners and cost by taking short cuts to do a proper shear wall....stop right now until you have the money to do it right. Your talking about maybe 200-300 in material...that would cost you thousands to fix....

Instead of cement boards....why not go with stucco?

And.....I think his idea of the panel siding as shear reflects that he is a hack....that wouldn't fly down here.

Also....talk to another contractor....you should have at least 3 quotes....

What price did he quote? Can you post more details?

 

[MrMark]

A lot of people call structural sheathing "shear" when it is not. Structural sheathing is paneling that has the principal use of serving as a backer for siding or shingles; and stucco too on a good house. Shear is something very specific, it is an engineered panel designed to transfer load. As John said, it must be Struc 1 ply or Struc OSB (not the OSB you commonly see in Home Depot) on a specified nailing schedule. By the way, the price of Struc OSB is the same as Struc 1 Ply last time I checked. You would get some shear value from nailing on T1-11, but it in no way would pass for an engineered shear wall.

Do you even have any shear walls on this build?

 

[cslye]

With mild temperatures of Sacramento, CA the difference between the two exterior treatments won't make much difference on your heating or cooling.

Curious what kind of quotes you are getting??

Not wanting to shake the hornets nest of prices are only good for your area debate, I didnt include this in the first message... Here is what the quote is for the two relevant items:

Framing – Supply all materials and labor to complete framing including walls, floor structure, roof truss system, wall and
roof sheathing, dormers, barge rafters, fascia, and all engineered hardware. - $30,605

Siding – Install concrete lap siding over building paper as shown on plan elevations. Dormer gables and top portion of
end gables to have concrete board cedar shake style siding as shown on plan elevations. Install trim at all corners and
around all windows and doors. - $9,600

Total price, without insulation/drywall was $73k + permits

The build design is in my garage build thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=211147

 

[cslye]

If your trying to cut corners and cost by taking short cuts to do a proper shear wall....stop right now until you have the money to do it right. Your talking about maybe 200-300 in material...that would cost you thousands to fix....

I was wondering the same thing, how much that would really save. Thats why I asked here if that was such a great idea, I thought it sounded a bit strange.

I have a call into another contractor right now looking for another quote. Already tossed the first quote, it was evident they were not interested in the job and their price reflected it.

Stucco may be a good option I will ask him also, the house is half stucco so that would match better then panels.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[cslye]

Thanks for all the feedback on this. He thought stucco might be a good idea, after getting prices back it comes out the same as the cement boards. He also said the panel idea was not a good one and he wouldn't recommend it. (Gee, why did you give it to me then, geez)

Meanwhile I have sent details to two more contractors with no call back. So that makes 5 queries, one came back over 100k and this guy. Guess thats the market I live in.

So got the quote down to 74k with the original cement boards and insulation and upstairs sheetrocked. (Which is my priority to use, downstairs I can do later and not have to figure out how to get 4x12 sheets up a stairwell by myself)

Old quote was 73k +5500 for sheetrock(up and down) +2900 for insulation

At this point I think it is what it is, I can keep chasing down non responsive people or risk paying a premium for someone who wants to do the work.