Let's see if I'm reading this correctly. Your generator has an outlet, and your house has an inlet, and they don't match up. You found a generator paralleling kit that fits your generator's outlet, and has a new outlet that is compatible with your house's inlet? If that's the case, you would be using the expensive paralleling kit as a plug adapter when a cheap plug adapter would work better for under $10.
That generator is 120V out only. And their parallel inverter kits (I see a 30A and 50A) are also for 120V only. You still haven't said what the "right outlet" is for your extension cord, but if you're limited to shopping at HF, is this the right plug?
I found that line in the manual, and my guess is it is because the disconnected ends would be energized. You could easily tape over them, if this is what it takes to power up something for the Mrs tonight.Looks like I answered my own question. Manual says #15: Do not attach a Parallel Kit to only one generator. Looks like I'll be without electricity for a few more days...until the 1,000,000-plus customers get back online.
Thanks.
I assume this won't actually hurt anything, L1 to L2 would just read zero. Correct me if wrong. Nothing "240V" would work....
With the EV style adapters I mention above, L1 gets power, but has no continuity to L2, so your L1 circuits would work, and L2 and 240V circuits would not work.
I "think" with the RV style connectors, you get continuity between L1 and L2. So L1 / N and L2 / N both measure 120V (same phase). L1 to L2 measure 0, as they are in phase. (RVs don't use 240V anyway)
you need an inlet not an outlet. if you connect the generator to an outlet you will have to use whats called a suicide cord
Buy the correct male and female plugs. Buy 10/4 SJOOW cord (I had to buy mine on eBay). MAKE YOUR OWN !
Only if you have 240V appliances. If you do not, SHORT L1 to L2 !
Never heard this statement before !
It's never going to power the AC, not even in parallel. Most "parallel" kits are for amps, not volts with a few recent exceptions. I made the same mistake thinking I'd get 240V out of a Champion parallel kit to power my welder.. Fail...
RVs don't use 240V. 30A RVs use only "one leg" and 50A RVs use "both legs" but only to neutral, not to L1/L2.
If you have L1 and L2, you have 240V ! Just depends if the breaker panel/load center allow you to install a 240V (double) breaker !
You're missing my point. The 50A RV adapters short L1 to L2 on the connector 14-50R side, and use a 120V 5-15 or 5-30 plug that only connects to L1 at the source. L1-L2 on such a connected RV panel will give you the same voltage as N-G.
you misunderstood what he was saying. yes 240v is available to the RV but the RV panel and equipment does not make use of the 240v. everything is 120v. Why? So if the RV pulls into a spot that only has 120v available (like a 30a 120v receptacle) all the equipment in the RV can still run on shore power instead of genny
I knew someone would correct me. Yea, you have 240V potential in the wire (4 wire in the case of a "50A" RV). It looks like they use a double pole breaker for the "main input"... I dunno if this is position specific or not, but I've never seen a 240V appliance in an RV, likely because 240V power isn't always available.
Likely true. Plus do the on board generators make 120V or 240V ?
I understand your point, but that soul mean one leg is pulling the whole load!
In every case I've seen for RV generators (typically Onan) they are "double wound" 120V. 2 x 120V outputs.
Sure. 'Cept no one wires a home with a "one leg" panel, at least not in traditional residential. So if you're going to use a 120V generator, you've got to light up both legs, which will unfortunately mean they are in-phase and nothing 240V works.
