Partition walls with truss floors.

[padroo]

I built my own house back in the 90s. I have 34 foot floor trusses free spanning my basement and roof trusses on 2 foot centers. The floor trusses are 22 inches high by 36 feet on one foot centers. There are no posts or beams in the basement. I have a long wall perpendicular to the floor trusses. When the temperatures change I get a popping sound from what I believe is the nails pulling loose inside the wall at the floor plate.

I treated the interior walls just like outside walls nailing them the same way. Does anyone have any experience with this. I think it has something to do with the roof trusses. I read somewhere about the bottom chord of the roof trusses being buried in insulation keeping them warm and the rest of the truss being exposed to big temperature changes.
The roof trusses cantilever over my front porch are 40 feet.

 

[boobag]

does the floor also pop when you walk along that wall?
i've seen this happen. the floor is designed to deflect some, but the wall does not deflect. sometime the floor tries to seperate from the bottom of the wall.

if you have access below the floor, find where the bottom wall plate is(be very precise) and run some long lag screws throught the top chord of the truss, plywood, and into the bottom wall plate. bonus if you get lucky and screw into a stud also.

 

[padroo]

does the floor also pop when you walk along that wall?
i've seen this happen. the floor is designed to deflect some, but the wall does not deflect. sometime the floor tries to seperate from the bottom of the wall.

if you have access below the floor, find where the bottom wall plate is(be very precise) and run some long lag screws throught the top chord of the truss, plywood, and into the bottom wall plate. bonus if you get lucky and screw into a stud also.

Yes it does pop when you walk by it mostly when the temperature is changing and is quite loud.

I have thought of doing what you said but I am worried about pulling the top plate down and pulling the drywall loose from the ceiling.

Another idea would be a lot of work would be to run all thread from the attic into the basement and squeeze the roof truss tight against the floor truss. I would have to do it several places along the wall.

 

[larry4406]

I build production homes. We sometimes encounter floor pop sounds. What we find is that the nails thru the partition sill plate make noise due to flexure of the subfloor. The vertical screw method from below has merit if you have access, but an errant screw can cause more problems.

We usually have success by pounding a shim under the sill plate from above. In carpeted areas, we pull the carpet back from the tack strip, sometimes remove a section of tack strip, apply construction adhesive to the sill/plywood joint, then pound a cedar shim in. Cut the excess shim, and reinstall tack strip and rekick carpet.

In more extreme cases, we carefully remove the base molding, cut the drywall discretely above the sill plate but well below the top edge of the basemolding, then screw the plate to the joists and in between using impact driver and 3" deck type screws. Then reinstall base without drywall repair, caulk base to wall and done.