Parts cleaner

[camardelle]

I'd like to know what you guys are using for a parts cleaner. Mostly old auto/motorcycle parts with a lot of oil on them. I'm making some artsy stuff and for the life of me it seems like I'm killing myself trying to get parts clean and oil free. I've tried something from one of the big box stores that was ok, nothing spectacular, and Purple Power from Tractor Supply which I like but still requires a ton of work.

I'm interested in some chemical based parts cleaner. I don't mind wearing gloves to clean, I'm just tired of spinning my wheels. What's the strongest thing you use.

I plan to pick up a large compressor and a blast cabinet but it's just not in the budget at the moment, and I wonder how that will work on grease.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[58Yeoman]

Blast cabinets won't work on grease; it will just embed itself in the grime. I haven't used any cleaner in years, so I don't know what is a good brand. I have used diesel or kerosene on occasion.

 

[Marcm157]

I have used a product from Tractor Supply called PSC1000 for years and I think it works just fine. I do all my own repair work on my family vehicles as well as some restoration work and it has performed very well for me. A little pricey but worth it.

 

[chrispyny]

I bought 2 drums of tractor supply Crown PSC 1000 which is basically Naptha.
High flash point (141°f) and doesn't smell in my parts washer.
Just the other day i removed a greasy dirty Honda GX390 engine from a pressure washer. I scrubbed it in the parts washer and got it clean. Then removed it from the parts washer and placed it on an old cookie sheet. I then used one whole spray can of brake parts cleaner (acetone) and sprayed the engine clean of grease remnants and parts cleaner. It came out squeeky clean.
Thats how i do it.

 

[camardelle]

Looks like I'm off the Tractor Supply tomorrow. $40 is nothing to sneeze at, but to be honest I paid around $20 for a gallon of the Purple Power so this will actually be cheaper. Maybe it's time to get a parts cleaning tub at Harbor Freight as well.

Thanks for the input guys. It's greatly appreciated.

 

[Justind97]

On my motorcycle parts to get them from looking completely grubby with 30 years worth of grime to brand new, I use industrial strength CLR. Not sure on the price as my old man gave it to me, but it can be reused and reused. Even when you think it's done, it can keep on cleaning.

You have to watch you don't leave the parts in there too long. Works best on aluminum.

 

[Justind97]

This is what it can do. I don't believe I put the Fuel selector in, so you can see the difference

 

[lilredex]

Smaller parts are cleaned outside in a Tim Horton's coffee can using a stiff brush. The solvent is a combination of Varsol and gas. When finished, the solvent is poured of into a jug to settle, ready for use the next time.

Any solvent from cleaning paint brushes goes in there too. I find the solvent improves with use.

If you are ambitious, you can use a wide mouth jug and install a tap on the side up off the bottom. It saves tilting the jug and disturbing it all.

 

[camardelle]

Justin the part looks brand new. I might pick up a small CLR as well tomorrow and do some comparison cleaning. LOL

 

[shortykorte]

I've used Super Clean on greasy oily parts with success. Caked on grease still needs a putty knife or scraper. This stuff works but it's is corresive so don't let it set to long.

 

[kc10a]

Mineral spirits. I got one 5 gal bucket from NAPA for $46 with tax. Got another from a gas distributor for $27.

 

[chrispyny]

Mineral Spirits and Naphtha
The two most widely used finishing solvents are mineral spirits and naphtha. For our purposes, the principal differences between the two are evaporation rate and oiliness. Naphtha evaporates more quickly than mineral spirits and is “drier,” that is, less oily. Naphtha is therefore better for cleaning all types of oily, greasy or waxy surfaces. Mineral spirits is better for thinning oils, varnishes (including polyurethane varnish) and oil-based paints because it leaves more time for the coating to level after brushing.

Naphtha is a stronger solvent than mineral spirits, but this is rarely significant in wood finishing. Mineral spirits is strong enough for any normal operation.

To better place turpentine among the petroleum distillates, think of it as having the solvent strength of naphtha but the evaporation rate and oiliness of mineral spirits. I don’t know of any situation in wood finishing where this is important.

The nickname for mineral spirits is “paint thinner.” Back in the early days of mineral spirits, before World War II, all paints were oil-based. So there was only one thinner for paint. The nickname made sense.

Today, with water-based paints and finishes in wide use, the name could be confusing to beginners. Paint thinner is used only with oil-based paints and finishes.

It’s important to emphasize that mineral spirits and paint thinner are the same thing. Amazingly, there are manufacturers who try to trick you into paying more by labeling their containers “pure” mineral spirits and charging more.

The common naphtha available in paint stores is VM&P Naphtha. VM&P stands for “varnish makers and painters.” Stronger and faster evaporating naphthas exist, but these are rarely sold to the general public.

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/a_primer_on_solvents

 

[stimpy]

what works best is if you can set up a skimmer on your aqua cleaner tank as it will skim the oil off the cleaner this is what we used on coolant used for cutting steel , and movement of the solvent helps ( a pump with a nozzle helps ) as it scrubs off the dirt as its loosened .

 

[camardelle]

You're referring to the VM&P that one can get at the big box store, correct?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[larry4406]

Craigslist was my friend.

Zep DynaBrute cleaner unit was $75 but needed repair to the fusible link, new hoses, filter, and filter o-ring. I removed the bottom drain plug and installed a ball valve with plug. Later I scored three new 20 gallon barrels of Dyna 143 for $120. Unit works very well.

Justind97 - Thanks for the tip on Industrial Strength CLR on aluminum cleaning. I will have to try that. Currently rebuilding a Montero Sport 3.5L engine and I would like the aluminum to sparkle.

 

[Justind97]

Justin the part looks brand new. I might pick up a small CLR as well tomorrow and do some comparison cleaning. LOL

I'm not sure if the run of mill household stuff will produce the same results...

My method for old bike parts, put the parts in dirty, greasy, grimy and crusty, let sit for 10 to 15 minutes. Clean with a toothbrush, run under hot soapy water. Dry and repeat.
I think the petcock shown was done twice. Make sure you don't leave it in the CLR for too long, it will start to eat the aluminum.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

I've always used odorless mineral spirits, but I might check out naphtha now. I've never used gloves with the mineral spirits. It's basically just oil, so it doesn't bother my skin. YMMV

 

[Binger]

I bought non chlorinated cleaning solvent from a local oil distributer. It was about $9 a gallon. Always use gloves with it. you can use it in a parts washer or just in a drain pan.