Parts for old Sears / Dunlap drill press?

[CoconutPete]

I have wanted a drill press for years and I'm once again about to start a project related to my car which will be a lot easier having one, so me and my son went for a drive and picked this up. I have always loved these.

Anyway, it's missing the key for the chuck and has no balls (haha) on the handle. It needs a cord too, but I Have plenty of those, i just choppped one off my coffee maker that I threw out.

The balls (haha again) seem to be readily available on Amazon. The handle has small snap rings on the end to keep it from falling out. Is a hole that is just big enough along with perhaps some2-part epoxy the way? Something else?

Last but not least ... forgive me, I grew up with the metric system... how do I find out what size chuck that is so I know what key to buy?

Thank You

 

[The Cobbler]

when I need chuck keys I try to take the chuck with me and use the try & see if it fits method

 

[FrankLee]

I have wanted a drill press for years and I'm once again about to start a project related to my car which will be a lot easier having one, so me and my son went for a drive and picked this up. I have always loved these.

Anyway, it's missing the key for the chuck and has no balls (haha) on the handle. It needs a cord too, but I Have plenty of those, i just choppped one off my coffee maker that I threw out.

The balls (haha again) seem to be readily available on Amazon. The handle has small snap rings on the end to keep it from falling out. Is a hole that is just big enough along with perhaps some2-part epoxy the way? Something else?

Last but not least ... forgive me, I grew up with the metric system... how do I find out what size chuck that is so I know what key to buy?

Thank You

That model did not come equipped with feed handle knobs.

The rod is held in place with a spring, steel disk and leather disk on the inboard side of the rod in the pinion shaft.

The chuck is likely a Jacobs 3333C which takes a #32 key. The chuck model number is stamped between the pilot holes.

I happen to be working on that model at the moment and have up-to-date photos here:
https://www.amazon.com/photos/group...g.vZ06bui-HGwlbiPOeUWAIy?tag=atomicindus08-20

You're also missing the small pointer just above the pinion shaft. There is a scale stamped into and around the pinion shaft. You'll see a picture in the link above. The pointer looks very easy to replicate.

It looks like the spindle pulley is protruding too high. That will be addressed if you're doing a complete tear-down and reassembly.

The original paint looks to be in amazing condition! If you've never tried Grez-Off, now is the time. The paint on mine is much worse. I do not plan to repaint, but I think it will clean-up nicely with Grez-Off.

 

[mslim]

Nice looking old Dunlap.

I have a delta 15-017 that came without a ball on the handle. I bought an appropriate size ball from the hardware store and threaded the handle with matching die. It look more finished and works a treat.

 

[CoconutPete]

That model did not come equipped with feed handle knobs.

The rod is held in place with a spring, steel disk and leather disk on the inboard side of the rod in the pinion shaft.

The chuck is likely a Jacobs 3333C which takes a #32 key. The chuck model number is stamped between the pilot holes.

I happen to be working on that model at the moment and have up-to-date photos here:
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/6OuXzxdBSzm-Z149tvHxgg.js-6ancPAAQY1iwuwU-t3G

You're also missing the small pointer just above the pinion shaft. There is a scale stamped into and around the pinion shaft. You'll see a picture in the link above. The pointer looks very easy to replicate.

It looks like the spindle pulley is protruding too high. That will be addressed if you're doing a complete tear-down and reassembly.

The original paint looks to be in amazing condition! If you've never tried Grez-Off, now is the time. The paint on mine is much worse. I do not plan to repaint, but I think it will clean-up nicely with Grez-Off.

D@MN! Wow. I just spent way too long looking at those pictures, thank you.

I'll look for a key like that.

I'd like to imagine a restoration like that in the future. The condition of the paint has definitely gotten me to reconsider painting it. I redid my old Wilton vise in farm blue and I am doing the bench grinder in the same color, I would have like them to match but I might need to leave it.

I'm thinking: Clean it up, replace the cord, pick up a key and maybe replace the belt. Then I'll use it to finish my car-related project and then maybe do a more proper teardown.

 

[exmaxima1]

Not sure but I always thought the Dunlop version of that King-Seeley drill press used sleeve bearings instead of the ball bearings found in Craftsman models. I would think it would be difficult to rebuild the spindle. I would check that out before investing in a new chuck.

 

[FrankLee]

Not sure but I always thought the Dunlop version of that King-Seeley drill press used sleeve bearings instead of the ball bearings found in Craftsman models.

That is correct for the most part.
Very early versions of the 12-1/4" drill press were Craftsman branded. Dunlap branded 12-1/4" drill presses were produced from 1950 to 1963. Then, in 1964, the 12-1/4" drill press was revived with a Craftsman badge very similar to the Craftsman 150 badge, but smaller. That model was a very short run; maybe one or two years.

I would think it would be difficult to rebuild the spindle. I would check that out before investing in a new chuck.

Replacement Oilite bushings are available. I'm working on getting a set.

 

[FrankLee]

D@MN! Wow. I just spent way too long looking at those pictures

Many of those photos require explanations. Feel free to ask.

 

[CoconutPete]

I replaced the cord and took'er apart and did a decent cleaning. Just to get an idea of what I'm working with I wanted to run it a few times. She wobbles. Could that be the belt or shoud I start looking at mount of the motor or the bearings?

This is the belt -anyone know how to interpret the numbers to find a size?

 

[FrankLee]

I replaced the cord and took'er apart and did a decent cleaning. Just to get an idea of what I'm working with I wanted to run it a few times. She wobbles. Could that be the belt or shoud I start looking at mount of the motor or the bearings?

If you're referring to the chuck wobbling, it's likely a bent spindle. Can you measure runout?
How much play is there with the spindle in the quill? Grab the chuck and try to move it back and forth. If there's any movement, you may consider new bushings. I believe these are the correct sizes.

Quill:


Pulley shaft:

This is the belt -anyone know how to interpret the numbers to find a size?

I ordered this 38" cogged belt for mine. A 39" belt would work well too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SQCCQ4N/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The manuals refer to a catalog number 9-1637, which is a 37" belt. IMO, that is too small and I believe that is an error in the manual.

 

[CoconutPete]

If you're referring to the chuck wobbling, it's likely a bent spindle. Can you measure runout?
How much play is there with the spindle in the quill? Grab the chuck and try to move it back and forth. If there's any movement, you may consider new bushings. I believe these are the correct sizes.

Chuck actually spins steady.
The motor is what likes to "hop" when turned on.

Speaking of the motor. Any benefit in adding a grounded plug to this? I had a non-grounded one lying around so that's what I have on there now. There are those 2 big mounting bolts - those could potentially be a good place for the ground wire - maybe?

 

[FrankLee]

Any benefit in adding a grounded plug to this?

I always replace the original cord with a grounded cord. I like these from HD.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8...l-Replacement-Cord-Black-HD-165-018/303679847

I generally drill and tap for the ground wire. Others have used the base bolt or the bottom cover screw (green arrow below).

There are several styles of bases. This one was a little different and I had to drill from the top.


On style like yours, I drill near the cord inlet as indicated with the yellow arrow.

 

[CoconutPete]

Ah, so you drill-n-tap a fresh hole. Got it.

I had her fired up last night and she did great. Almost done w/ my car related project and the workbench will be empty again. May have to do a more thorough resto. After a wash, there's not much rust but the paint is very faded and worn.

I'll need to find out how to replace those rivets holding the serial number tags in. They look like they are just hammered in.

 

[FrankLee]

Ah, so you drill-n-tap a fresh hole. Got it.

I had her fired up last night and she did great. Almost done w/ my car related project and the workbench will be empty again. May have to do a more thorough resto. After a wash, there's not much rust but the paint is very faded and worn.

Some paste wax will revive faded paint nicely. This machine is another keeper of mine. It has plenty of worn paint, but I like it.

I'll need to find out how to replace those rivets holding the serial number tags in. They look like they are just hammered in.

You can easily remove all those panel screws on these machines from the back side of the badge. Their holes go through.


I always drill and tap (6-32) the holes for the model information tags and the head trim panels, if equipped. It's so much easier.


The only panel screws I reuse are for the Craftsman or Dunlap head badge.

 

[CoconutPete]

Well believe it or not I finally had time to work on this.
Overall she's in great shape.
One of the simpler problems seems to be that one of the "pins" holding the motor level just comes out freely. It's knurled so it appears the one that's "stuck" is the correct one, so I'll need to figure that out.
On the top I think I found the issue. The bearing in the top pulley was bad enough that the copper sleeve started spinning in the housing (see all the coper dust).
On the bottom there appears to be only one true "bearing" the others are copper sleeves.
Now onto actually finding a place where I can order parts.
Any recommendations?

 

[FrankLee]

Well believe it or not I finally had time to work on this.
Overall she's in great shape.
One of the simpler problems seems to be that one of the "pins" holding the motor level just comes out freely. It's knurled so it appears the one that's "stuck" is the correct one, so I'll need to figure that out.

A retaining compound will work to secure that rod into the motor mount. I used a high-strength red thread locker once to address that problem.

On the top I think I found the issue. The bearing in the top pulley was bad enough that the copper sleeve started spinning in the housing (see all the coper dust).
On the bottom there appears to be only one true "bearing" the others are copper sleeves.
Now onto actually finding a place where I can order parts.
Any recommendations?

There is no bearing in the top pulley. That is a hardened washer that rides on top of the porous bronze bearing/bushing. That washer was originally peened into the pulley. They often come loose like yours. Once you clean the pulley and washer, use a center punch to re-peen the washer.



Your bearing/bushing needs to be replaced. The chart in post #10 shows possible options. The problem will be choosing the correct one. That bushing must be a tight pressed fit. When pressed into the head casting the ID will also compress slightly. So, it has to be tight, but not too tight. Length is also important. The bushing should protrude above and below the head casting. You should be able to find those Oilite sleeve bearings at the usual places... McMaster, Grainger, Motion and maybe Amazon or eBay.

Yes, there is only one thrust ball bearing on this machine.

It looks like you're missing a couple red fiber washers.


I suggest reviewing my photo album again (link in post #3) and also posts #5235 and #5236 here:

Craftsman Drill Press

@Outlawmws I'll let Frank speak for himself, I know he's had a couple vari-slo's as I have had, both solid bar and I-beam type models. The kindest word I can come up with for the vari-slo is finicky. Others may have better experiences, but the MSA is so much more practical and low maintenance. I...

www.garagejournal.com

 

[CoconutPete]

Thanks Frank! That makes it pretty simple.

The only thing I'm not 100% on yet is how to determine the exact bearing size for item # 18221. I'll see if there is anything on eBay that mentions the model number.

The same "4-pack" sems to be for sale everywhere. I may just have to roll the dice on one of those and see if one fits.

I cant' access your photos anymore. Do I have to be signed into "regular" amazon to view Amazon photos?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks Frank! That makes it pretty simple.

The only thing I'm not 100% on yet is how to determine the exact bearing size for item # 18221. I'll see if there is anything on eBay that mentions the model number.

Your bearing is very likely NICE branded with the number. It's going to be 5/8" bore. I'm pretty sure it's a 605.

Amazon.com

However, these usually clean up beautifully.

The same "4-pack" sems to be for sale everywhere. I may just have to roll the dice on one of those and see if one fits.

The sleeve bearings? Yeah, I've never replaced those, so I can't help much with the precise size. What does the bore in your head casting measure?

I cant' access your photos anymore. Do I have to be signed into "regular" amazon to view Amazon photos?

I'm not sure, but try again. I tweaked a setting.
I use four different platforms for photo storage and I'm really not fond of any.

 

[FrankLee]

Your bearing is very likely NICE branded with the number. It's going to be 5/8" bore. I'm pretty sure it's a 605.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrust-Bearing-Complement-Hardened-Carbon/dp/B07MQG4297?tag=atomicindus08-20
However, these usually clean up beautifully.

Yep, 605.

 

[CoconutPete]

Thanks for all the pointers. I soaked everything (that needed it) in CLR and everything looks much better now. I washed everything w/ degreaser and dunked it in oil so it wouldn't flash rust. Need to upload pics.

The castings cleaned up great, but some paint came off. I'm considering painting it now.

That bearing - you were spot on. I cleaned it and I think it might actually be solid and I think I might just pack it w/ grease.

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks for all the pointers. I soaked everything (that needed it) in CLR and everything looks much better now. I washed everything w/ degreaser and dunked it in oil so it wouldn't flash rust. Need to upload pics.

The castings cleaned up great, but some paint came off. I'm considering painting it now.

That bearing - you were spot on. I cleaned it and I think it might actually be solid and I think I might just pack it w/ grease.

Were you able to view my photos?

 

[CoconutPete]

Were you able to view my photos?

When I click the link now I see "you have been invited to view these photos" but when I click "accept" it gives me the same sign-in prompt I was getting before.

Back when you first posted these, clicking the link just took me right to your album.

 

[CoconutPete]

is 26617 supposed to spin freely inside 18217(copper bushing)?

Because if that's the case then we have found the root of the problem I think.

26617 is pretty "scarred" from ... something. I cleaned it up (a lot) but it's still a "rough spin" inside the copper bearing.

 

[FrankLee]

 

[FrankLee]

is 26617 supposed to spin freely inside 18217(copper bushing)?

Because if that's the case then we have found the root of the problem I think.

Yes.

26617 is pretty "scarred" from ... something. I cleaned it up (a lot) but it's still a "rough spin" inside the copper bearing.

Please post photos of the cleaned scarred shaft.

Part number 18217 is a sintered bronze sleeve bearing. It is porous so the oil can penetrate and lubricate the pulley shaft. The cavity in the head casting around the sleeve bearing is an oil reservoir. The small hole in the head casting and pulley is the access to add oil to the reservoir.

 

[CoconutPete]

Here is what part # 26617 looks like.

I can ... somewhat freely slide the copper bushing onto it now, but it still needs work to spin freely.

 

[FrankLee]

Here is what part # 26617 looks like

I can ... somewhat freely slide the copper bushing onto it now, but it still needs work to spin freely.

Thanks.

Is that dried grease or corrosion along the shaft?

The damage near the top from the set screws is quite common. The scarring from the set screws can damage the sleeve bearing when pushing out the shaft. Any radial burrs created by the set screws should be filed off.

The damage can also hollow out the inside of the pulley. How snug or loose is the shaft when you install it in the pulley (without the set screws)?

 

[CoconutPete]

What's left is corrosion. I think between the CLR bath, the degreaser bath and the wire brush it's almost bare.

I need to hit it with some more brush or a fine grit sandpaper I think.

Very interesting about the copper ring and the oil reservoir, looking at it that make so much sense!

 

[CoconutPete]

So ... fun fact. The largest Torx bit in a standard set is perfect size for slipping right into the end of that troubled piece, allowing me to spin it on the drill and sand it smooth. No issues not, brass bushing slides right on and spins.

Which brings us to the bushing ... once it comes time for assembly - that bushing just taps into place down into that cavity?

 

[FrankLee]

How snug or loose is the shaft when you install it in the pulley (without the set screws)?

Test fit the shaft into the pulley to check fit.

You'll want to mark the top of the shaft where the flats are. This helps align the set screws during installation.


The set screws should be tightened only on the flats. USE A THREAD LOCKER on the set screws, but don't tighten them too hard. The pulley will likely wobble a bit either way.

So ... fun fact. The largest Torx bit in a standard set is perfect size for slipping right into the end of that troubled piece, allowing me to spin it on the drill and sand it smooth. No issues not, brass bushing slides right on and spins.

Hopefully you didn't take off too much.

Which brings us to the bushing ... once it comes time for assembly - that bushing just taps into place down into that cavity?

Yes, and it should be a rather tight fit. If not, it's time for a new bushing.
The top of the bushing should sit proud of the head about 1/8".

 

[CoconutPete]

Hopefully you didn't take off too much.

Thanks for all the pointers.

I used 400 and 800, so I hope so as well. I honestly am not sure how I would have made this work otherwise, that sucker was NOT spinning freely.

Interesting to think about how the machine ended up in the state it's in. I suspect it ran for years without oil in that reservoir and eventually the shaft seized to the bushing strongly enough that it spun that copper bearing right out.

Anyway, degreaser worked really well but the paint is not as good as I thought it would be.

I did my old Wilton vise in a Farm-implement blue. I am really tempted to do this in the same paint.

 

[Cruzan80]

Thanks for all the pointers.

I used 400 and 800, so I hope so as well. I honestly am not sure how I would have made this work otherwise, that sucker was NOT spinning freely.

Interesting to think about how the machine ended up in the state it's in. I suspect it ran for years without oil in that reservoir and eventually the shaft seized to the bushing strongly enough that it spun that copper bearing right out.

Anyway, degreaser worked really well but the paint is not as good as I thought it would be.

I did my old Wilton vise in a Farm-implement blue. I am really tempted to do this in the same paint.

Just to be clear, you sanded the shaft, not the bushing, correct? Oilite bushings are not designed to be cut down or sanded, as it closes the "pores" that oil seeps thru. Polishing/sanding the actual shaft (steel) would be ok.

 

[CoconutPete]

Just to be clear, you sanded the shaft, not the bushing, correct? Oilite bushings are not designed to be cut down or sanded, as it closes the "pores" that oil seeps thru. Polishing/sanding the actual shaft (steel) would be ok.

Yes. I sanded the shaft, not the bushing.

 

[CoconutPete]

Does anyone know how this guy is attached? Threaded? Just pressed in?
I'm pretty close to being committed to painting this thing and this is the only thing i have not removed.

 

[FrankLee]

Does anyone know how this guy is attached? Threaded? Just pressed in?
I'm pretty close to being committed to painting this thing and this is the only thing i have not removed.

I've had ten of this model and repainted two(?). I've never tried too hard to remove that stud and suspect it's pressed in. I just mask it.

 

[CoconutPete]

I've had ten of this model and repainted two(?). I've never tried too hard to remove that stud and suspect it's pressed in. I just mask it.

I like this answer. If you're not taking it out, I'm sure as heck not going to try!
Just looking for a local guy who sandblasts on the side. The texture of this thing makes me not want to sand or steel-brush it.

 

[CoconutPete]

Decided to take the motor apart also since I committed to paint.
Need to find a good shop that can sandblast.

Bearings from the motor look and feel shot, I wonder if these eBay kits are any good.
Cant make up my mind about the plaque on the middle cover of the motor. Those do not look like standard rivets.

 

[FrankLee]

Bearings from the motor look and feel shot,

I can't recall the last time I bought new extended inner race bearings for a motor. They always clean up beautifully for me. That dent in the shield should not be a problem... there's a felt washer under there.

 

[CoconutPete]

Wow, those bearings did clean up nice. That thing that looks like black plastic on one of them in my picture ... that was just ancient grease.

I do wonder if it is possible to get the cover off, seems like it would help w/ cleaning.

I found a place to sandblast, now I just have to drop off.

 

[CoconutPete]

Fun fact. If you don't have a lathe and you are looking to clean up the ... what's it called? The pillar?

Some duct tape, a 36mm socket, a drill and some super fine sandpaper works wonders.