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Parts washer question

NSXTACY

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Dec 20, 2007
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I have a 20 gallon parts washer from northern tool and i filled it with 5 gallons of parts wash i bought from northern as well. I diluted it with a little bit of water like your supposed to. Now whenever i wash any of my parts in it, there leaves a light brownish(almost red) dirt like residue on the parts after it dries. Im really pissed too cause i had parts washer solvent in there beforehand and i started noticing it so i cleaned my washer and spent 50 bucks to change the solvent with new stuff of the same brand and it still makes the brown residue. I'm cleaning internal engine parts so thats why im making it into a big deal. What is this residue? Should i be worried? How can i fix it? I really need help BAD!
Thankyou
 
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safetyfast

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I wouldn't use a water based cleaner on engine parts. Is the residue from where your parts washer is rusting? I use mineral spirits in my parts washer. There are commercial solvent based cleaners as well. Some people use kerosene. Some of the water based cleaners have lye in them which will make aluminum parts look awful.
 

Lloydthumper

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+1 on mineral sprits I did maintenance for 12yrs still do some and we tried several water based eco freindly solvents and they all did the same thing to any ferrous metal parts and left a whitish residue on other metals we all ways went back to mineral sprits.
 

alkemyst

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yeah, no water for this kind of parts washing. It works for some things but flash rust is a big problem with many auto parts.
 

Vicegrip

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yeah, no water for this kind of parts washing. It works for some things but flash rust is a big problem with many auto parts.
Some water based solutions have rust inhibitors in them. The stuff I use does not leave any flash rust at all and the parts don't rust when left out ether. The parts come out piping hot at 150+ deg and dry while you are looking at them.
 

goodfellow

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I have the 20 gal. washer as well. The water based stuff (although recommended by HF) will leave a residue unless you rinse the part immediately with clean water after you get it out of the washer. In fact many water based cleaning solutions will specifically state that the parts need to be rinsed separately.

Just today I picked up a 5 gal. container of commercial parts cleaner for $43.00 at Advance Auto. It's mostly Mineral Spirits and a few other additives. I went that route because my local Home Desperate was charging almost $14.00/gal. for plain Mineral Spirits. A little over a year ago I paid $7.50/gal at the same HD. I guess the price of oil has finally caught up with the solvent market.

Anyone know of a national/regional chain that has the best prices on these solvents?
 

timgr

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Yeah - I was shocked at the price of mineral spirits last time I looked at the Home Depot. I'd expect your local house painter would know where to get mineral spirits in bulk for the best price.
 

goodfellow

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Some water based solutions have rust inhibitors in them. The stuff I use does not leave any flash rust at all and the parts don't rust when left out ether. The parts come out piping hot at 150+ deg and dry while you are looking at them.

Good to know -- what brand/manufacturer are you using?
 

Lloydthumper

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Some water based solutions have rust inhibitors in them. The stuff I use does not leave any flash rust at all and the parts don't rust when left out ether. The parts come out piping hot at 150+ deg and dry while you are looking at them.

we tried a couple of those at work as well they were alkaline cleaners THey just didn't work on caked on gunk like mineral spirts.
 

ar2stp48

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Do you have a bulk fuel supplier near you? I bought mineral spirit from the local Exxon bulk supplier last week for under $5 a gal. I went to Exxon as it was closer; we have two bulk plants in town. I had priced solvent everywhere I could think of and the cheapest was about $37 plus tax for 5 gal at Tractor Supply.

Have been reading the forum for a month or so and finally joined tonight.
 
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NSXTACY

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What about diesel? Is that a good solvent? Does it leave residue? Gasoline?
So what do you guys think is the best for cleaning engine parts and just regular external parts. I don't mind the solvent being flammable or very stinky.... just w.e works the best. I would love to just get 5 gallons of carb cleaner(i love the stuff) but it is way to expensive. By the way what is Mineral Spirits? And is it as strong as carb cleaner? I appreciate the help, this info really helps.
 

alkemyst

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I'd avoid diesel and fuel for parts washing....kerosene if you had to have a fuel. Diesel would leave a residue, I haven't tried it though.

Here is mineral spirits:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits

Carb Cleaner is a lot different and a blend of stuff but mostly toluene, tetrachloroethylene and xylene. I don't know if you can buy tetrachloroethylene, but toluene is used as an octane booster and xylene I know was at Home Depot last I checked.

Carb Cleaner will eat carbon as well as your skin.

I use low odor mineral spirits as it's a little oily and doesn't evaporate. I will use Xylene, lacquer thinner and Acetone at times but this evaporate fast and can be harmful to things mineral spirits doesn't bother.

When doing light duty I will start with simple green and the like and move up to 70-97% isopropyl alcohol.

The best for engine parts though is a professional cooker...stuff comes out clean, but they cook it to a high temp with chemicals that probably require a license.

It really depends what you are trying to clean. If you are trying to remove carbon off pistons, most will say avoid doing this at home and take it to a pro.
 
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NSXTACY

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Does mineral spirits eat rubber? If mineral doesnt evaporate how do you dry parts? Just spray it off or dry with a towel. Yea and how many thousands of dollars are cookers... I don' care if carb eats skin i wear gloves anyway. i just need to know the best choice.
 

MDH9252

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NSXTACY, I learned my lesson about water based cleaning solutions....they will destroy your parts washer eventually. I bought a nice 20 gal parts washer from Clark equipment, filled it with cleaner/water as directed, and it corroded the pan and pump to the point I threw them away in about a year. Go with the mineral spirits or the 5 gal parts cleaner solutions from the auto supply store. :mad:
 

goodfellow

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What about diesel? Is that a good solvent? Does it leave residue? Gasoline?
So what do you guys think is the best for cleaning engine parts and just regular external parts. I don't mind the solvent being flammable or very stinky.... just w.e works the best. I would love to just get 5 gallons of carb cleaner(i love the stuff) but it is way to expensive. By the way what is Mineral Spirits? And is it as strong as carb cleaner? I appreciate the help, this info really helps.

Diesel is a fuel and thus has additives to help combustion and detection. It will smell up your whole shop (even with the lid on the washer closed). I'm not absolutely certain, but the refiners make it smell a certain way, so they add special chemicals to make the fuel give off a certain odor (as is also the case with natural gas -- it's odorless but the gas company adds the raunchy smell so that you can detect its presence).

Stay away from carb cleaner. The solvents in this stuff are hazardous, very volitile and extremely flammable.

Special purpose washer solvent and some mineral spirits are labeled "low odor" and you will be much better off in a closed workspace with low odor solutions.
 
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safetyfast

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When you drain out that water based cleaner, do yourself a favor and tap the train plug to accept a ball valve. It will make future fluid drains much easier.
 

Flatmotor

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I have had very good results for the past 20 years with Graymills Super Agitene water soluable cleaner in a Graymills cold parts washer with no rust corrosion problems. I always rinse and immediately dry. I previously used pc naptha that worked very good as well but not quite as safe to use. Bill

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2W352
 
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NSXTACY

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What about kerosene? ITs 35 bucks at Home depot for 5 gallon? Does anybody make their own concoctions? I was thinking of making my own by mixing 5 gallons of turpentine, mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, and acetone.
 

RPH

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Kerosene is about $3.00 a gallon at the gas station here in Michigan. I use and it works well, rinse with brake cleaner if you want dry to the touch quickly. Toulene and Xylene are octane boosters. These products are very flammable and toxic. The can be absorbed through the skin. Also the price is about $10.00 per gallon. Great as octane boosters and I have used them for that but with special handling precautions. Gasoline never, unless you want to become the human bbq. If you use highly flammable fluid for cleaning make sure all your insurance is fully paid. Work safe, work long.
 
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NSXTACY

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Does kerosene leave residue on engine parts? What about Mineral spirits? Thats my major concern, I want something good at dissolving grime and at the same time leaves no residue or film of any kind. What solvent fits my wants?
 

Vicegrip

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None. Wash the part clean in the parts washer then spray down with a 100% evaporating solvent like Brake-Kleen. The 100% evaporating solvent will displace the slow evap cleaning solvent. The solvent in the parts washer will take up oils and become tramp oil contaminated the first time you use it. This is OK and expected. Just rinse with a pure solvent after getting the part 99% clean in the washer.
 

larry4406

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Back in the 80's, my shop class parts cleaner used product called Varsol which was low oder, was slippery like diesel fuel, and did a great job cleaning parts without a residue problem. Not sure if it is still around.
 

ar2stp48

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Isnt Varsol basically the same as mineral spirits? I've got a vintage Varsol gallon can that is 3/4 full; considered dumping that into parts washer. Can is probably from the mid or late 70's; solvent should still be good.

I checked a two more bulk fuel suppliers and they all have mineral spirits by the gal for between $4.50 and $5.00 per gallon.
 

kwb210

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I just got a parts washer. Do people leave the cleaning solution in the washer for long periods of time? Months? I assume I'll use it extensively for brief periods of time, then it will sit un-opened for a while. I like the comment to use the solvent in the unit for a general cleaning, then spray a brake-kleen product to displace the dirty solvent for a perfectly clean finished product.
Kurt
 

89lesabre

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I used parts solvent from Menard's and got along just fine with it. Didn't have to add water either. I agree with "safetyfast" on the water-based cleaner issue.
 

jay50

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I just got a parts washer. Do people leave the cleaning solution in the washer for long periods of time? Months? I assume I'll use it extensively for brief periods of time, then it will sit un-opened for a while. I like the comment to use the solvent in the unit for a general cleaning, then spray a brake-kleen product to displace the dirty solvent for a perfectly clean finished product.
Kurt

Well, you don't have to worry about spoilage....:lol_hitti
 
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NSXTACY

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Well i bought some parts wash solvent from advanced and it was the mineral spirits based. I tried it out and of course it left the same brownish residue on the sides in the inside of my oil pan. I even sprayed it with brake cleaner and i still can't get it to dry without leaving that brown residue... Is there any help for me? Ive wasted enough of my money already buying different solvents. Any help at all? :lol_hitti

I also just tried cleaning it in my sink with detergent for old times sake, and it left the same brown residue after drying, it's getting weird. And im scared my cylinder head will do the same thing, and if i don' get that clean i will go crazy. Im starting to think its dirt that wont come off, but that makes no sense. Does anybody have any idea what this is?
 
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dropride

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Any oil pan i've ever cleaned had the same thing happen, no big deal.
 

jimvannoy

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Muratic Acid will clean it to bare shinny metal just make sure you rinse it with water very good to get rid of the acid.
 

alkemyst

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Any oil pan i've ever cleaned had the same thing happen, no big deal.

Same here, I think the hot oil 'stains' the metal...more than likely some reaction occurs.

Engine internals are usually not brought back to showroom new...you want them clean and without carbon. Trying to overclean them is where a lot of problems occur.

Cleaning pistons is usually best left to pros, too many people screw up the landings.
 
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NSXTACY

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The ironic thing is i found using the Mr. Clean magic eraser got it clean, that thing cleans anything and everything. It got all the stuff off and gave it a nice scent.:lol_hitti

I guess im gonna have to clean oil pans with magic erasers for now on.
My Question is if you don't get that residue off before you put the oil pan back on will it do anything to the engine, or get the oil dirty? Thanks for the help.:thumbup:
 
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NSXTACY

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Oh and i use a soft brass brush on cylinder heads sealing surface... is that bad? I also use a brass brush on piston tops and valve seats.... I was taught brass will not hurt aluminum, or any other harder metal. Is this totally true?
 
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