Parts Washer Safety

[cory58]

I have a common parts washer dilemma and hope to tap the collective GJ wisdom. I bought the Harbor Freight free-standing parts washer and have been using a water-based degreaser as recommended (Oil Eater). After less than 3 years it's rusted so bad that the spring mechanism on the cover failed.

Whether I figure out some rig for the cover or just get a new washer, I would like to switch to a solution of kerosene and Gunk SC3 degreaser. I've spent a lot of time researching this online here and elsewhere and the opinions seem to be all over the place regarding whether a solvent-based solution can safely be used in a parts washer rated for water-based. FYI - the pump is not an issue because I've already replaced it with a solvent-rated pump.

Many seem to think there is no safety issue, and others seem to think it's a recipe for certain death, but I can't find an explanation of what would be dangerous. What is the real safety issue? I understand that the fumes created by using mineral spirits (or similar) would be highly flammable, but what would ignite them, a spark from opening/closing the cover? All help is appreciated!

Thanks, Cory

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Wow never seen a parts washer rust that’s interesting. I don’t see any problems with using that solution you mentioned I mean yeah the fumes but maybe have a door or windows open while you are using it. I have heard of a lot of people using it without issues and it works is the good part. Yes a spark would light it but shouldn’t be any spark if you aren’t using anything that could spark around it.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[jimindm]

Most solvent based units have a fuse link to hold the lid open. If a fire happens it melts and shuts the lid.

I guess I have no idea if water based units have this or not. May not have one if the recommended solution is not flammable.

 

[BillK]

Cory,
How much do you use it ? My water based Safety Kleen sink type washer is stainless but I have never seen any rust on anything we have cleaned in it. I wonder if your water based solvent does not have any rust inhibitors in it ?

As far as the oil based solvent being a fire hazard I am not real sure if the newer stuff would burn even if you tried it ? We also have a regular petroleum based Safety Kleen washer and the newer solvent is almost like diesel fuel. Takes forever to dry.

Personally I have never heard of a parts washer catching on fire. Not saying it hasnt happened but dont think it is very common.

 

[sberry]

Get a new one. Save your solvent one for spare parts. Oil it.

 

[nadogail]

During the late '50's I washed tons of parts in a parts washer using Stoddard Solvent. That was 60 plus years ago and I still have all my fingers and toes, plus eyes and ears.

 

[matt_i]

Being such a low vapor pressure solvent, imo it would be tough to get an air-fuel ratio that's combustible.

Either have to have a big fan blowing across the lake so to speak or get an open flame right down in there, maybe molten metal globs from welding. Many things are possible and its of course been an issue at some point in history.

You might be able to buy a replacement fusible link from another brand and cobble it to yours. Or something like this.

https://www.zoro.com/dayton-fusible...6vIFvsCL3vxVpX6ZHspXKfoiFHH5_KkxoCemwQAvD_BwE

 

[Dragfluid]

Cory,
How much do you use it ? My water based Safety Kleen sink type washer is stainless but I have never seen any rust on anything we have cleaned in it. I wonder if your water based solvent does not have any rust inhibitors in it ?

As far as the oil based solvent being a fire hazard I am not real sure if the newer stuff would burn even if you tried it ? We also have a regular petroleum based Safety Kleen washer and the newer solvent is almost like diesel fuel. Takes forever to dry.

Personally I have never heard of a parts washer catching on fire. Not saying it hasnt happened but dont think it is very common.

Bill, what do you think about that water based stuff? How does it compare in cleaning heavy varnished parts? Back in the 90's at the dealer I was at, they brought one in to demo. I tried it in earnest on my transmission parts and after a few day, told them to get it out of here. Have never tried one since, so perhaps it has changed significantly?

OP, real mechanics have been using stoddard solvent for many many years. As previously stated, a quality washer tank will have a safety lead pellet that melts during a fire. When my place went up, the safety device did its job, the lid closed and it was fine. I'm still using the washer currently, after 35 years.

 

[jimindm]

Dragfluid I am sort of using the water based stuff now, by default. I have a landa parts washer that is sort of like a big dishwasher. It is water based.

The unit has a basket, parts sit in and a arm with jets sort of rotate around the basket. It is also heated. A moth or so ago I had a magnetic switch go bad that powers the large pump, that pumps the soap through the rotating arm. I do still have a pump, that goes to a brush and can use that.

Most of the soaps I have tried have worked great at just over all cleaning up. Being heated I think helps a lot.

Soap is the key, at least for me. You need enough to keep the suds down. When I could just shut the lid and let it clean with the rotating jet arm, there was sort of a fine line. To much soap, parts sort of had a sheen of soap left. Not enough soap and it took longer to clean, and suds up.

I do have and use the oil strainer. Just a disc that rotates around and dips down in the solution. Some wipers sort of squeegee the sides of the disc, and drop it down into a bucket.

The water based solutions have come a long way.

 

[oldmachinenut]

Bill, what do you think about that water based stuff? How does it compare in cleaning heavy varnished parts? Back in the 90's at the dealer I was at, they brought one in to demo. I tried it in earnest on my transmission parts and after a few day, told them to get it out of here. Have never tried one since, so perhaps it has changed significantly?

OP, real mechanics have been using stoddard solvent for many many years. As previously stated, a quality washer tank will have a safety lead pellet that melts during a fire. When my place went up, the safety device did its job, the lid closed and it was fine. I'm still using the washer currently, after 35 years.

We had a demo water based parts washer at the dealership in the 80’s. It was only there a month. When I rebuilt a 125 it took 3-4 cans of Brakleen to get the slimy film off of the parts for reassembly.

 

[Dragfluid]

Dragfluid I am sort of using the water based stuff now, by default. I have a landa parts washer that is sort of like a big dishwasher. It is water based.

The unit has a basket, parts sit in and a arm with jets sort of rotate around the basket. It is also heated. A moth or so ago I had a magnetic switch go bad that powers the large pump, that pumps the soap through the rotating arm. I do still have a pump, that goes to a brush and can use that.

Most of the soaps I have tried have worked great at just over all cleaning up. Being heated I think helps a lot.

Soap is the key, at least for me. You need enough to keep the suds down. When I could just shut the lid and let it clean with the rotating jet arm, there was sort of a fine line. To much soap, parts sort of had a sheen of soap left. Not enough soap and it took longer to clean, and suds up.

I do have and use the oil strainer. Just a disc that rotates around and dips down in the solution. Some wipers sort of squeegee the sides of the disc, and drop it down into a bucket.

The water based solutions have come a long way.

Jim yes, I've used a "cooker", heated water and detergent sprayed at parts on a turntable or parts tree (your Landa, Cuda, Better Engineering, etc, etc fall into that catagory) all of my career for cleaning transmission hard parts and cases. What I was talking about though is the water based solvent tank type of washer.

 

[cory58]

Thanks for all the helpful responses! To answer some of the questions and comments:

This is just my hobby garage, so I may use the parts washer 1-2 times per week.

I seriously doubt that the Oil Eater I've been using has any rust inhibitor.

Since the HF parts washer is not rated for solvents, I'm guessing there is no fusible link in the top mechanism. I always keep the top closed when not using the washer. If I switch to the Kerosene/Gunk SC3 solution mentioned in the OP, would keeping the lid closed 99% of the time create any problems?

The responses seem to confirm that there is no serious danger in getting a new HF parts washer and using the Kerosene/Gunk SC3 solution, beyond the obvious danger of 6 gallons of flammable liquid in the event of a fire in the garage. Is my assumption correct that the lack of a fusible link in the cover is not an issue if I keep the lid closed when not in use?

Thanks, Cory

 

[sberry]

You would be correct that a closed door is the objective of the link. Like closing a razor knife its a habit for me to close the washer lid. Not everyone does it though.
Now,,, having said that and this is something I didnt always do when I was younger as I usually knew more about such things than the people that designed or certified things I tend to keep pretty close to design as intended.
I bout burned the shack down a couple times with **** like that, it took me a long time to figure out a lot of stff while super simple was highly engineered and tested. Lots of stuff we dont even think about and consider been engineered in or out of a lot of stuff. , Air comps, furnaces, heaters,,,, Joe public fixes them or adds on and and gonna make it better and violates a fundamental principle that was making it safe. Happens all the time.
Many of the fix it better additions not really needed and if they were or thought it would have been a good idea they would do it at the factory or add it as an option.
Lots of it sold "after" market,,, not cause its good but because people want it,,, doesnt make it a great idea. To some extent this reminds me of hour meters and auto drains for comps,,, if its such a great idea and this market very competitive for features why do they not openly offer or tout these ideas?
Not saying this is true in every case obviously and some do but they often expensive options and most of the time the gain is small. So back to the washer,,, personally would get a new one, one with a listing on it, not that it makes it perfect but it does indicate some type of engineer has looked at the design.

 

[Dragfluid]

You should keep the lid shut anyway when not used, to slow down evaporation.

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

I use kerosene and mineral spirits my whole life and no fumes when its closed. You can smell it when it’s open but for me I can’t smell it across a 24x24 garage unless im right by it. I leave mine closed bucase im always running out of room on my work bench and I want it closed anytime im welding or grinding

 

[csp]

Many of the water based degreasers are a basic pH, opposite of an acid. It's the same chemical reaction with oils that allow over cleaner and lye to work on grease. Basic solutions will remove paint (and skin).

 

[cory58]

Thanks again for the responses. I did some additional research.

1. Many places sell versions of the same $100 HF parts washer. Interesting that they all have fusible links on the lid but are only rated for non-solvent cleaners. Why would they have fusible links? Makes me wonder if it's just the pump that can't handle solvents. On the Jegs site, their tech support even incorrectly answered a question about using a solvent degreaser in their version of the $100 washer.

2. Solvent rated parts washers are 4-5x the cost of non-solvent rated washers.

Cory

 

[csp]

There's nothing in these $100 parts washers that would be affected by solvents other than the pump. IMO, the "compatibility" beyond the pump life is all about liability and EPA regulation.

I'd guess that the fusible link is a carryover from manufacturing the same parts washers for solvent use before the EPA cracked down on solvent use for parts washing.

 

[Jagmandave]

My HF parts washer has the fusible link, and I've used solvent in it for more than 30 years with no adverse effects, with the original HF pump no less! I buy a 25 gal barrel of solvent from Crystal Clean, attached the pump on a shaft so it hangs down inside the barrel, set the tank on top and wash away. The solvent returns thru the drain plug hole. Works perfectly....

 

[DFB]

Ya my only problem with using HF parts washer/pump along with Crown PCS solvent was with the press fit of the parts on the cheap plastic pump. I found the the filter housing loose and then a little later on pipe connection to pump was loose too. Adding two SS hose clamps has to those two points has resolved any future issues there.

Like some others that have already posted on this, I also close the lid when not using it...evaporation being the major issue and course there are just simply less odors around the garage too

 

[Sureshot]

I built my own solvent tank and used fishing line as the fusible link.

 

[Jagmandave]

Yeah, I close the lid too, keeps the smell down a bit.....