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Paver driveways?

abstamaria

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I like pavers. They have an old-world feel and to my eyes look great. One can open up sections without having to break up concrete or asphalt. Laid properly, they allow more in-ground drainage and reduce water run-off (and flooding), important considerations here. We replaced the crushed gravel on our parking area with pavers two years ago. The pavers seem to be holding very well.

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abstamaria

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We bought an old house with a cement driveway. We covered it initially with crushed gravel, but ultimately bit the bullet and tore up the cement. The previous owners overbuilt the driveway, so it was a tough job!

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abstamaria

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We decided to use grass or turf pavers for aesthetic and environmental reasons. The cement driveway needed a hosing down frequently, a job that the pavers eliminated. A major bonus is that ambient temperature reduced noticeably. I live in the tropics.

Here is the driveway before the grass fully adapted (you can still see the grid pattern in some areas). I recommend pavers on a traditional gravel and sand bed highly.

Good luck.

Andy

PS: Not my cars, unfortunayely. Just some friends visiting to see the driveway.

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csp

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Also, I checked with the manufacturer to see if they were any different between buying at the landscaping place vs. Home Depot, and they are the exact same spec. In fact, these were shipped direct from the manufacturer.

I'm assuming that the manufacturer is Pavestone for yours.

In my area, the pavers that Home Depot gets (Pavestone) are the 1.5" tall versions versus the 2-3/8" that you bought. These are obviously not the same that you can buy from a landscap supplier and are not rated for vehicle traffic.

Just throwing this out there so that someone doesn't assume that all pavers are the same, especially if they are getting them from a big box store, Home Depot in particular. I'm sure that Home Depot can order the thicker ones, but this isn't what they have out on the floor for sale in my area, and I suspect in other areas as well.

We built a paver sidewalk (five pallets of Holland square and rectangle) and bought ours from a retailer that sells factory seconds from Pavestone. I can't tell the difference between firsts and seconds, so I figured why pay full price? Still gorgeous after three winters and no movement whatsoever.
 
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JimVonBaden

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You dot have to be careful to pick the right ones, but HD and Lowes both carry driveway suitable 2 3/8" pavers.

Jim :cool:

PS Great input. Mine is getting closer. The materials are ordered, and the labor lined up.
 

csp

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You do have to be careful to pick the right ones, but HD and Lowes both carry driveway suitable 2 3/8" pavers.

Come to the Denver area and try to find any 2 3/8" pavers in stock at Home Depot.

Regardless of that, the point was that there are different grades and not everyone is aware that there's a difference, especially in areas where both are NOT in stock for all to see the different sizes.
 
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JimVonBaden

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Come to the Denver area and try to find any 2 3/8" pavers in stock at Home Depot.

Regardless of that, the point was that there are different grades and not everyone is aware that there's a difference, especially in areas where both are NOT in stock for all to see the different sizes.

No doubt you need to know what you are getting. I am sure you could order the thicker ones at any Home Depot.

Jim :cool:
 

thejudges69

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one time I hauled some sandstone to a house in a ritzy area and the guy doing the job told me it was a huge waste of money and he suggested pouring concrete and putting a design on the concrete. of course this is a permanent deal just my .02
 
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JimVonBaden

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one time I hauled some sandstone to a house in a ritzy area and the guy doing the job told me it was a huge waste of money and he suggested pouring concrete and putting a design on the concrete. of course this is a permanent deal just my .02

He would be right, if the owner was installing sandstone as a driveway paver.

Jim :cool:
 
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JimVonBaden

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It has begun!

Started like this:
frontyard2.jpg

PaverProject1.jpg


Then added this:
RetainingWallBlock.jpg


Then brought in these guys:
PaverProject11.jpg


And this happened:
PaverProject12.jpg

PaverProject19.jpg


I went for these for the drainage:
PaverProject14.jpg


They moved on and did this:
PaverProject44.jpg

PaverProject29.jpg


In the back they are filling in the swamp with the excess:
PaverProject16.jpg


After 9 hours we had this:
PaverProject50.jpg


There were two issues, a really poorly laid cable by Comcast, and very crappy asphaut over concrete:
PaverProject33.jpg


Tomorrow they install the retaining wall and dig up the back yard for the patio.

Morte to come.

Jim :cool:
 
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bigdav160

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I love the look of pavers but my current experience with Pavestone hasn't been good. :mad:

I'll probably have to get my $5000 back from the retailer and do concrete instead. :( :mad:
 

PassnThru

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Bowling Green KY
So I skimmed through but didn't see anything about cleaning the pavers. I have extended my back patio some with pavers. Problem is, when I pressure wash them, it pulls out all the material in between. Did I do something wrong to begin with or is it just accepted that you can't pressure wash a brick patio/driveway?
 
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JimVonBaden

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I don't think most power wash their pavers very often. The aged patina is a nice look. If, however, you need to, you will likely have to add more sand and sweep it in.

Jim :cool:
 

PittsS1

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Minnesota
Looks great Jim! Keep the pics coming... I have some walls coming up to do as well for a raised paver patio in back. Yours look great so far! What is the square footage of that drive going to be- it looks quite long.

Also, why the concrete block? I've done a number of segmental retaining walls and in all cases they don't need a traditional footing below frost line, but I've seen guys build walls with block below frostline if veneering with stone. It looks like you have a mix of CMU and SRW units? Not saying it's wrong as things are done differently everywhere depending on conditions, just curious is all...

...Problem is, when I pressure wash them, it pulls out all the material in between. Did I do something wrong to begin with or is it just accepted that you can't pressure wash a brick patio/driveway?

Polymeric sand. Get the good stuff (I used Techniseal, but there are a few out there). When dry it is super hard- can't leave an impression with a fingernail. When wet, it gets a bit softer, but won't wash out. I think a pressure washer might still dislodge it if you were agressive, but just to clean them it would probably be OK. One word of caution though- follow the instructions verbatim. If you wet it with some still on the surface you get a nice haze that is horrible to remove... but as Jim said- the patina is part of the character of pavers IMHO.

Also, no weeds and no ants moving around your sand. I pay about $22/bag for it with a commercial acct at a local supplier.
 
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jhelrey

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When we built walls, the rule is to bury a block. They buried a block but it was a concrete block instead of expensive wall block. We always buried natural colored gray block instead of the more expensive colored block.
 
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JimVonBaden

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When we built walls, the rule is to bury a block. They buried a block but it was a concrete block instead of expensive wall block. We always buried natural colored gray block instead of the more expensive colored block.

Exactly. Using a row of concrete block over 8" of 21A, then filling them makes for a strong base. It is only 28" tall, but it will never move now. Since the original was 3 feet away, and the ground hasn't been disturbed for 75 years, it shouldn't move anyhow, but why take chances?

Jim :cool:
 
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JimVonBaden

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Oh, and a completed shot:

paverproject240.jpg


And the back yard patio:

paverproject237.jpg


Plumbing for the gutter downspouts.

8: of 21A:
paverproject238.jpg


They used the excess dirt to level off the back yard, hopefully firming it up and eliminating standing water.

Jim :cool:
 
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NUTTSGT

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Exactly. Using a row of concrete block over 8" of 21A, then filling them makes for a strong base. It is only 28" tall, but it will never move now. Since the original was 3 feet away, and the ground hasn't been disturbed for 75 years, it shouldn't move anyhow, but why take chances?

Jim :cool:

Did they fill your block ? If so, regular quickrete bag mix or just stone ?

The project is looking good. :beer:
 
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JimVonBaden

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Did they fill your block ? If so, regular quickrete bag mix or just stone ?

The project is looking good. :beer:

Filled with stone. I would have gone with concrete if I had a taller wall, but at about 2' it doesn't require anything more, and it is even a little overbuilt.

Thanks,

Jim :cool:
 

NUTTSGT

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Filled with stone. I would have gone with concrete if I had a taller wall, but at about 2' it doesn't require anything more, and it is even a little overbuilt.

Thanks,

Jim :cool:

I guess that makes sense, how far down is the frost level where you're at ? Any worry of it heaving at all ?
 
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JimVonBaden

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I guess that makes sense, how far down is the frost level where you're at ? Any worry of it heaving at all ?

Northern VA get's very little freezing, so not really an issue. The old one was at least 40 years old, and no real issues with no footer at all.

My footer is, in effect 16" deep, 8" of 21A, and 8" of block filled with 21A.

Jim :cool:
 

blkhonda1991

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looking good, the town didnt have an issue with you basically paving your entire front yard? they freak out around here when you cover too much of your lot with impervious surfaces
 
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JimVonBaden

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looking good, the town didnt have an issue with you basically paving your entire front yard? they freak out around here when you cover too much of your lot with impervious surfaces

The inspector came by and only said I needed to move the retaining wall back 3'8" for the city right of way. Nothing about the paving. On the other hand, my back yard will still help yield about 65% total green space for my lot, even with a 27X35" paver patio and 17X34 front paver pad.

Oh yeah, no need for a permit either.:rocker:

Jim :cool:
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern VA get's very little freezing, so not really an issue. The old one was at least 40 years old, and no real issues with no footer at all.

My footer is, in effect 16" deep, 8" of 21A, and 8" of block filled with 21A.

Jim :cool:

Thank you :beer:

The inspector came by and only said I needed to move the retaining wall back 3'8" for the city right of way. Nothing about the paving. On the other hand, my back yard will still help yield about 65% total green space for my lot, even with a 27X35" paver patio and 17X34 front paver pad.

Oh yeah, no need for a permit either.:rocker:

Jim :cool:

Move it back ? That was before you had it built I'd guess looking at the pictures.
 
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JimVonBaden

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Yeah, you can see in this photo where we first intended to put the retaining wall.
PaverProject19.jpg


It was right where the original one was, and we had already dug the foundation, filled and compacted it, and were laying the first concrete blocks when the inspector came by.

So, you can see here where we ended up having to put it to be safe:
wall01.jpg


In the end I think it will look pretty decent like it is.

Bricks will be delivered on Thursday. Appian Prest Random in Salmon/Charcoal Blend with Charcoal 6" square borders.

http://www.hanoverpavers.com/b_app_nat.asp

IMG_20110308_102213.jpg


BURKE+PATIO.JPG


Jim :cool:
 
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JimVonBaden

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Actually, I do have to pay, but not much comparred to full price. The job was estimated at nearly $28K, I'mm paying less than half, materials included.

Jim :cool:
 
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JimVonBaden

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Back at it:

PaverProject46-1.jpg

13 pallets of brick and one of Cement.

PaverProject45.jpg

The pattern, for now.

PaverProject43-1.jpg

Prep.

PaverProject41.jpg

More prep. Prep is everything.

PaverProject42-1.jpg

The back yard drains getting done.

More to come.

Jim :cool:
 

csp

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Wow, that's a lot of pavers. You must really hate your lawn mower. Can't say that I'd care to have my entire front yard paved. Oh well, can't see it from my house. :D
 
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JimVonBaden

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My entire front yard borders a 4 lane high traffic road, and is 50' by 20' with a driveway taking up 15' and the only way to turn around is to pull into the front "yard". That is why it had a "parking" pad in the first place. It was just very small, so I am expanding it. Plus, the retaining wall had to be moved back 3'. Not really much of a front "yard". So, in order to make it more functional, we are making the "parking pad" larger and nicer.

frontyard2.jpg

Old.

FrontYardPlan.jpg

Plan.

That said, more than half the pavers are going to the back yard to become the patio, 780 square feet.

Jim :cool:
 

Mmfh

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I have a similar area where we turn around so we can be going the right way when we get to the busy street. I'm watching to see how you finish this and I'm going to show my wife and see what she thinks.

Looks great so far!

Mm
 
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