Paver driveways?

[JimVonBaden]

A little update!

After a month the grass has come a long way.

Still working on the grass closest to the pavers. I should have seeded it at the same time as the rest of the yard. I also added a fence and a gateway to grow a vine on that I made out of the crushed canopy. Maybe grapes.

Jim

 

[bentwrench54]

that looks really nice jim!

 

[JimVonBaden]

that looks really nice jim!

Thanks! Growing that damn grass is harder than laying pavers (to me)!

Jim

 

[Jimmy_B]

Beautiful. I hope you can spend as much time enjoying it as you have into it.

 

[shannonw]

Thanks! Growing that damn grass is harder than laying pavers (to me)!

Jim

Nice! Looks tons better than before and a lot more useful.

Here's one we just had done before sealing (wide angle lens so things are a bit distorted but you get the picture). It's the first stages of eliminating as much lawn as possible without rocking everything. I hate it. Not lawns in general, just florida st augustine and the cost of water here. Either the grass goes or I move out of state. Here's my 1st stage, 2200 sq feet of pavers, circular drive, driveway and a side drive which will eventually be a carport. I've been planning to do this for like 8 years!

Next plan when funds allow is for a back patio, maybe firepit somewhere, and a path down the sides of the back. The paths will give a nice walkway and a buffer between neighbors lawns. Inside i'll have some token lawn areas. Installing rain barrels and microirrigation next for tropical beds i've been making.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Very nicely done!

Jim

 

[NUTTSGT]

Bringing this back as I getting ready to start a new project. This seems to be the paver/retaining wall thread.

When they built the retaining wall, did they run a tile behind it for drainage ?

Any more pics of the wall as it was going up that you can post up Jim, or anybody else ?

 

[JimVonBaden]

I welcome ideas for it too, no deck, just patios.

Fastest ignore ever!

Jim

 

[JimVonBaden]

Bringing this back as I getting ready to start a new project. This seems to be the paver/retaining wall thread.

When they built the retaining wall, did they run a tile behind it for drainage ?

Any more pics of the wall as it was going up that you can post up Jim, or anybody else ?

Backfilled with gravel to about 10" from the top. There are two drainage holes for the house downspouts with room around them for weep holes, and gaps left between the first above ground row of retaining blocks.

Be sure and post up your progress!

Jim

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks Jim, I will take pics and post them up unless PB pisses me off again. I also picked up a new SD card for the camera, I needed the micro SD for my new phone.

 

[willymakeit]

Bringing this back as I getting ready to start a new project. This seems to be the paver/retaining wall thread.

When they built the retaining wall, did they run a tile behind it for drainage ?

Any more pics of the wall as it was going up that you can post up Jim, or anybody else ?

Put drain tile behind it and a filter fabric around the crushed stone.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Put drain tile behind it and a filter fabric around the crushed stone.

That's kinda what I was thinking, but wanted to see what everybody else had done.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Installing drain tile is never wrong, but may not be required.

If the wall is low (< 3') and the area above does not rise a lot and there are no downspouts aimed at the back of the wall, then you probably don't need it. Make sure you have a proper base and a good footing, at least 1 block below grade.


Best thing about pavers is drainage ! Go extra deep on your base (at least 12") and water will never puddle, even in valleys, for very long.

 

[IONH]

I have a wall about 5 feet high at one point in a water feature I made which I back filled with about 10" of crushed stone for drainage as well. Two winters here in the Northeast later, no shifting.

 

[Turfbassett]

Belgard mega-arbel looks pretty cool. And you can get thick cuts for heavy duty like drives.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Installing drain tile is never wrong, but may not be required.

If the wall is low (< 3') and the area above does not rise a lot and there are no downspouts aimed at the back of the wall, then you probably don't need it. Make sure you have a proper base and a good footing, at least 1 block below grade.


Best thing about pavers is drainage ! Go extra deep on your base (at least 12") and water will never puddle, even in valleys, for very long.

Definitely! I have 16-20" of crush beneith my pavers, and though I have a very established and stable grade, I also have weep holes and crushed stone behind the walls.

Jim

 

[JakeKohl]

Here is a 9500 SQ FT driveway I put in with my Brother... The driveway was different and we ripped a bunch out because the neighbor wanted their own driveway. It is shared. There is 16 inches of base under most of it. We had fully loaded concrete trucks driving on it, etc. A rotating laser with reader is the only way to go.

Any landscaping you see, I did.

...that feeling when you realize your driveway is nicer than your street....

 

[shannonw]

Just a tip for those with pavers, i've had to replace one here and there. i read online about using screw drivers, i tried that 3 minutes and decided that was a great way to chip the paver even more or adjacent ones. Due to my slope and crazy heavy florida rains i have the polymeric so they get set really good. Then i saw the paver extractors and they were pricey.

Anyways i found 2 blunt sawzall blades worked great (i had some dull diablo ones sitting around), they flex without me chipping a paver further. I spray the polymeric joints with a hose, work a bit of sand out of the joint with the blade. Then using the non-cutting edge on opposite sides i just dig them into the sides a bit and/or rock them back and forth till i get them out. I can now pull them pretty quick with no damage to the chipped one or adjacent ones.

 

[Rosco]

Here's one we just had done before sealing (wide angle lens so things are a bit distorted but you get the picture). It's the first stages of eliminating as much lawn as possible without rocking everything. I hate it. Not lawns in general, just florida st augustine and the cost of water here. Either the grass goes or I move out of state. Here's my 1st stage, 2200 sq feet of pavers, circular drive, driveway and a side drive which will eventually be a carport. I've been planning to do this for like 8 years!

That looks awesome! love the edges. Can I ask what is under the pavers?

 

[Jsf721]

I can send you some more if you like. This is off my photobucket account. I did not take it purposly to show the pavers but you get the idea.

Done 3 years ago. Ripped out all front landscaping (bobcat -not me). Level and grade surface. Compact dirt, run electric and sprinkler lines in separate PVC pipes. Sand Several Inches. I am close the water so they needed to use a deeper sand base. Last layer compacted and left to sit week to ten days. Last ince was Porter Cenenticious sand mix. Laid pavers, sweep more porter / sands mix wet and all done.

So far I am very happy. If you go the paver route, get some soft kitty liter for when people drip oil on your pavers . Really grinds my gears but it does come out with some work and time.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Around here we use "slag" for the top bedding layer. I think other areas of the country call it "stone dust". More expensive than sand but it compacts down nice.

 

[shannonw]

That looks awesome! love the edges. Can I ask what is under the pavers?

Honestly i don't recall amounts, in florida they all seem to just put down some crushed concrete and sand and it's not too deep...if that's right or not i have no idea but seems the norm (being florida contractors who knows!...and honestly this was a lowest bidder job , i was planning to sell afterwards but didn't). Drainage isn't really an issue due to the sandy soil. Washout and ants is our biggest problem (extreme rain and it's on a slope) which the polymeric helps with greatly.

One thing with the curves i've discovered is when they cut the pavers to form the curves this cuts off the 'tabs' which space them. I have quite a bit which are butted up next to each other around the curves. This is a prime spot to get a chip as there's not much of a joint. But really you shouldn't be driving up there where the curb restraints are anyways but i think installers should have accounted for that. So far it's been minimal though.

These are sealed i can't remember the product atm it's a 2part , crystal clear something from some company based in lakeland,fl..seems to be a contractor item. Bit expensive but so far looks like it will hold up well from the sun, nothing stains (and i have an oak tree), so I think the price will even out over other stuff in the end.

I do use the heck out of it, trucks, i've pulled my truck and a u-cart with a couple yards of concrete on there. I figure given the number of pavers a few chips don't bother me and after a bit of practice with that technique above i can replace them quick now.

 

[shannonw]

I looked this up this evening. This is the sealer we used based on the contractor recommendation

http://www.innovativeconcrete.com/pdfs/URE-SEAL.pdf

Personally i like the unsealed look, but everyone compliments seeing the sealed look, it really brings out the colors and shines. Slippery as all get out when wet for a few months.

It seems to be the good stuff. No idea if this works up north...pavers here are the norm rather than the exception and only slightly more $ than concrete as they don't have to go deep for frost and most pavers are produced locally here. But where you'll find it i have no idea..they don't sell direct and i had to get it from the contractor.

It's expensive (i recall freaking out about it!), but after a year i can tell i'll get the moneys worth and quite a number of years out of it in the florida heat, sun and rain. Nothing from big stores for sealing outdoor tiles and such i've ever tried here lasted more than 6-12 months, after 12 months this is pretty much just as it was laid down and nothing has stained it...i'm pretty sure it will last at least 4 times longer than big box store water based stuff.

 

[gricegear]

WoW!!!! I just stumbled on this thread and it is great! I am thinking about putting brick pavers or old street brick in part of my driveway for my carport addition. I can't imagine how much labor went into yours, it was definitely worth the price, it looks fantastic. I'm jealous. You can't mimic real brick with concrete stamped and there is something about laying it by hand that makes the quality that much more. I'm impressed to say the least, great job and I'm sure you'll enjoy it for as long as you live there.

 

[JimVonBaden]

It is coming up on a year old, and still looks like it was just put in. We are getting some moss in the cracks, and that really looks cool to me. The grass is growing in nicely giving it a more finished look.

Thanks, and I encourage anyone who likes the look to try it. Lots of work, but will always look better than concrete or asphalt, and easier to repair too.

Jim

 

[JimVonBaden]

Since this was brought back up I thought I would take a photo to show what it looks like today:

Before:

After:

Jim

 

[shannonw]

It's awesome, really goes well with the house and i'm jealous of the patio. To me it's just 100% more useful. Your place to me now looks pretty low maintenance with that patio in back. I do wish my lot was a bit smaller, it's a bit challenging trying to cover lawn areas and still afford it!

My lawn looks like **** right now as it's our dry season for a couple of weeks and i'm still not watering. But what i've saved not watering (or going with a well) i'm getting ready to hit stage 2 which is paver paths on both sides of the house, right curvy path leading from the front drive a small fire pit area in the very back, and patio area on the back left where I have some oak trees that I can't keep clean. Nothing fancy mostly paver areas, some retaining wall block. I've got two huge oaks (the one in back is 2x the size of the front) and with the pavers sealed i pretty much just go out every other day and blow off the drive so i like the hardscape maintenance.

This next stage is going to be DIY likely so i can adjust things as i go since i **** at grand master plans.

After that, i'll probably water some, when all is said and done i will have eliminated probably 70%+ of the lawn areas and the majority of the pavers is long long long ago paid for from a few years of not watering. Have a carport going up on the side paver drive in a few weeks, then i'm working rain barrels in once i install some additional gutters, that's going to feed the beds. THEN i'll actually work on cleaning up the lawn

Here's a few before and after, after isn't recent and before i build a bed on the left of the side drive with granite rocks and palms there (as seen in other pics). I have 2 oaks, the rock beds don't stay clean but easier than mulch...60% of the leaves blow out and low maintenance.

 

[shannonw]

Oh after installing the pavers i did notice one thing lol, man in the summer months in the evenings i go out and frogs are freaking everywhere! There will be 10-15 all around nightly just hanging out...they keep getting in the garage. never had that happen until the pavers...heck until we got the drive i don't recall ever seening more than a frog here and there and not on the drive, i didn't even realize there were so many in hiding!

Only thing i can figure is maybe the pavers hold the heat a bit better or something, or maybe it's the sq footage putting off more heat overall which attracts them.

 

[Jimmy_B]

That's beautiful Shannon!

 

[IONH]

Only thing i can figure is maybe the pavers hold the heat a bit better or something, or maybe it's the sq footage putting off more heat overall which attracts them.

That'd be my guess too.

Looks great.

 

[JimVonBaden]

It's awesome, really goes well with the house and i'm jealous of the patio. To me it's just 100% more useful. Your place to me now looks pretty low maintenance with that patio in back. I do wish my lot was a bit smaller, it's a bit challenging trying to cover lawn areas and still afford it!

My lawn looks like **** right now as it's our dry season for a couple of weeks and i'm still not watering. But what i've saved not watering (or going with a well) i'm getting ready to hit stage 2 which is paver paths on both sides of the house, right curvy path leading from the front drive a small fire pit area in the very back, and patio area on the back left where I have some oak trees that I can't keep clean. Nothing fancy mostly paver areas, some retaining wall block. I've got two huge oaks (the one in back is 2x the size of the front) and with the pavers sealed i pretty much just go out every other day and blow off the drive so i like the hardscape maintenance.

This next stage is going to be DIY likely so i can adjust things as i go since i **** at grand master plans.

After that, i'll probably water some, when all is said and done i will have eliminated probably 70%+ of the lawn areas and the majority of the pavers is long long long ago paid for from a few years of not watering. Have a carport going up on the side paver drive in a few weeks, then i'm working rain barrels in once i install some additional gutters, that's going to feed the beds. THEN i'll actually work on cleaning up the lawn

Here's a few before and after, after isn't recent and before i build a bed on the left of the side drive with granite rocks and palms there (as seen in other pics). I have 2 oaks, the rock beds don't stay clean but easier than mulch...60% of the leaves blow out and low maintenance.

Wow, that is sweet!

Jim

 

[shannonw]

Thanks guys for the props, i admit more than a few sleepless nights over this decision, I had been thinking of this for years but seeing jims and others on this thread really helped push me over the edge. But it came down to hundreds a month to water and still look like **** during the dry watering restriction months or swallow the cost of an irrigation well which has skyrocketed around here, some resodding in areas, and even then a 20 year old irrigation setup from when water was cheap ( beds and lawn on same zones, stuff like that).

Also we've been here 10 years, and it never fails a house sells right before going on the market they put in sod, or right after it's bought. 1st year looks ok, 2nd year they get tired of the 300+ water bills, 3rd year it's 1/2 dead. then rinse and repeat. I've seen houses resodded 5 times in 10 years.

I just couldn't swallow that logic and really don't have the time with kids to maintain large areas.

Probably 75% of the houses around here in my area (non HOA) have lawns similar to my before pic, the ones that don't have wells. And in the watering restriction months they're always out there trying to figure out a way to water around restrictions...i just didn't want to deal with that. My preference would really be move to the country =) but we can't do that for a few years.

So I still have rough visable lawn areas, but once the rest is done, i think (HOPE) it will be manageable, the shady zones typically do well on their own, rain barrels i'm hoping will supplement the beds as well as better plant choices. Then i'm hoping not to have the greenest lawn areas around but reasonably healthy with some watering.

lol and even when the lawn looks like **** no one gets past the driveway, all the comments are about the drive.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Just a little update:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145450

 

[rharman]

I like pavers. They have an old-world feel and to my eyes look great. One can open up sections without having to break up concrete or asphalt. Laid properly, they allow more in-ground drainage and reduce water run-off (and flooding), important considerations here. We replaced the crushed gravel on our parking area with pavers two years ago. The pavers seem to be holding very well.

When we remodeled our house 23 years ago, we did pavers for the driveway, front courtyard, and a back patio in the same herringbone pattern and color you have. City required a concrete apron though.

I love the look of pavers.

 

[JimVonBaden]

More pavers:
The plan:

I am adding 10' to the end of the current pavers, 10' to the side for the hot tub, and water and power for the hot tub, outdoor kitchen and back yard.

Work so far:

I am also adding concrete to under the Hot tub and a side project of extending the garage.

Further, I am adding concrete between the garage and the fence.

Tomorrow I will have the pavers laid, and mybe the steps done:

 

[JimVonBaden]

Progress!

Next week we replace the stairs!

 

[M-technik-3]

Looks good, I like the pavers that are kind of hollow in the middle so you can plant grass in them so your yard remains more of a grass area vs a parking lot of a heat magnet.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Looks good, I like the pavers that are kind of hollow in the middle so you can plant grass in them so your yard remains more of a grass area vs a parking lot of a heat magnet.

Those are cool, though surprisingly expensive and high maintenance.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Those are cool, though surprisingly expensive and high maintenance.

Jim: Could you clarify on the high maintenance aspect? Are you referring to keeping the grass alive or something else?

I have an area next to my garage that leads to the back yard where I want to have a more finished surface. I've been thinking about using something similar to the pictured pavers.

I got a quote for prep and blacktop that I felt was high given I have the ability to do the prep. I haven't priced pavers like yours - but I will do so soon.

Jim

 

[JimVonBaden]

The grass paver concept is good for a low use driveway where you want to keep it green. It does require trimming, watering and weeding. It isn't as simple as mowing for the most part.

Pavers like I have are very low maintenance. Brush a little sand over them once a year, hit a little Roundup on any weeds that manage to pop up (very few) , and that is it. More durable than asphalt, but not all that much more expensive.