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Paver driveways?

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JimVonBaden

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Some work on the steps today:
All out of order, but I am too tired to care!

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padroo

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I did a large raised patio back in 2009 and a 6 X 6 stoop with pavers. I ended up doing a basket weave on a 45 degree angle. It totally changes the way the basket weave looks. The thin sand base that has been recommended is right, better thin than thick. I bought 2 , 1 1/4 pieces of black pipe 10 feet long, laid them down on a very compacted base and filled the area in with sand. You screed off the top of the two parallel pipes to level the sand. I think you get the picture. I used a 4 lb. Dead blow hammer to initially seat the pavers. Like was mentioned when done put sand on top of your new pavers and broom it into the cracks.
Using a flat plate compactor to do its magic of seating and leveling the pavers. You will need a wet brick saw, I bought one from Harbor Freight.
 
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JimVonBaden

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padroo said:
I did a large raised patio back in 2009 and a 6 X 6 stoop with pavers. I ended up doing a basket weave on a 45 degree angle. It totally changes the way the basket weave looks. The thin sand base that has been recommended is right, better thin than thick. I bought 2 , 1 1/4 pieces of black pipe 10 feet long, laid them down on a very compacted base and filled the area in with sand. You screed off the top of the two parallel pipes to level the sand. I think you get the picture. I used a 4 lb. Dead blow hammer to initially seat the pavers. Like was mentioned when done put sand on top of your new pavers and broom it into the cracks.
Using a flat plate compactor to do its magic of seating and leveling the pavers. You will need a wet brick saw, I bought one from Harbor Freight.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:
 
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JimVonBaden

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vettex2 said:
Any reason you couldn't use cinder blocks?
Click to expand...

You probably could ghetto it like that, but it would not be cheaper, would not last as long (cinder blocks are not designed for it) and the holes are pretty large, so you would be driving on the grass more, so the grass would likely not hold up as well. Oh, and it would not be as attractive.
 
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vettex2

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I have an area where "ghetto" would be ok. Light traffic too.
As far as percentage of grass goes,
it looks like a push from a casual observation
and they are 7.625" thick.
I have access to some freebies.
ae65c7d3-3968-4d3f-a016-3ba9fec08257_1000.jpg
 
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1LargeDog

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This was a paver project that I had done about 5 years ago and has held up well with daily traffic with my cars. 1200 sq ft up front and another 825 in the back. Best investment I have ever made.
 

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1LargeDog

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Yes, yours is a three pattern while mine is a two brick pattern. I am having them professionally sealed next week. Yours looks great. Love the pavers!
 
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PassnThru

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Jim - a question if you don't mind. Pavers are concrete - concrete needs to be pressure washed on occasion - usually once or twice a year if you're 'particular' about it. How does the filler in the joints hold up to to pressure washing? Is pressure washing a non-starter? Do you have to use other cleaning methods?
 
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JimVonBaden

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PassnThru said:
Jim - a question if you don't mind. Pavers are concrete - concrete needs to be pressure washed on occasion - usually once or twice a year if you're 'particular' about it. How does the filler in the joints hold up to to pressure washing? Is pressure washing a non-starter? Do you have to use other cleaning methods?
Click to expand...

Pavers are concrete, and though you can pressure wash it, you generally do not need to. Mine looked great for 4 years so far. The sand filler will get partly washed out with a pressure wash, but you need to resand at least once a year anyhow. Rain and wind will remove some of the filler sand anyhow.
 
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MikeF2316

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PassnThru said:
Jim - a question if you don't mind. Pavers are concrete - concrete needs to be pressure washed on occasion - usually once or twice a year if you're 'particular' about it. How does the filler in the joints hold up to to pressure washing? Is pressure washing a non-starter? Do you have to use other cleaning methods?
Click to expand...

I have a paver patio, it's been at least 15 years. Some areas are dirtier than others. Last year I started to get a lot a weeds in some areas. Where I hit them with Path Clear (a vinegar based vegetation remover), the pavers are much cleaner too!
 
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wilkrod

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Hi all,
How I did mine with the advice I picked up on this thread.
Many thanks.
Not as nice as others, but it was my night job for about 3 months.
Each one laid by my hands.
Had left over material so ran a walk way around the side of the garage out to the garden shed, and an apron around the front of that.
Regards
Jeff
 

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JimVonBaden

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wilkrod said:
Hi all,
How I did mine with the advice I picked up on this thread.
Many thanks.
Not as nice as others, but it was my night job for about 3 months.
Each one laid by my hands.
attachment.php

Had left over material so ran a walk way around the side of the garage out to the garden shed, and an apron around the front of that.
Regards
Jeff
Click to expand...

Hi Jeff,

That is a nice job you did. Looks great!
 
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wilkrod

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Re: Paver driveways-Edging?

All,
I had used P/T 4X4 for the edging on my paver driveway.
Just yesterday I noticed that ants had attacked a few of the 4X4, and they are rotting.
Any sugestions as to what/how to replace them?
Thanks
Jeff
 
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66Caprice

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Stanwood, Washington
Do yourself a favor and kill the Ants before you start to do any removal of the old timbers. Because once you move thos timbers them Ants are gonna be looking for a new home!
 
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CNGsaves

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That looks great JVB :thumbup: . . . I hadn't seen this thread until now.

Another benefit of pavers (for KS real estate taxes anyways) is that they are "Not Permanent" so not added as improvement to Real Estate subject to real estate taxes on the property.

Absolute key to good paver job is all the preparation . . . sub base, compaction, more sub base, more compaction, final base, MORE compaction !!
 
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Retlaw 66

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CNGsaves said:
Absolute key to good paver job is all the preparation . . . sub base, compaction, more sub base, more compaction, final base, MORE compaction !!
Click to expand...

x2!
I did about a 800 sq ft driveway pad.... one of the best improvements I did to my home.
Initially planned on renting a compactor for $90 a day, but eventually bought a HF compactor ..... it was well worth it since it took me DAYS of compacting to finish the job. The HF Tile/brick saw was the other tool that was a great purchase for the job.
 

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JimVonBaden

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CNGsaves said:
That looks great JVB :thumbup: . . . I hadn't seen this thread until now.

Another benefit of pavers (for KS real estate taxes anyways) is that they are "Not Permanent" so not added as improvement to Real Estate subject to real estate taxes on the property.

Absolute key to good paver job is all the preparation . . . sub base, compaction, more sub base, more compaction, final base, MORE compaction !!
Click to expand...

Yeah, the base is very thick, and compacted nicely.

Thanks,
 
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JimVonBaden

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Retlaw 66 said:
x2!
I did about a 800 sq ft driveway pad.... one of the best improvements I did to my home.
Initially planned on renting a compactor for $90 a day, but eventually bought a HF compactor ..... it was well worth it since it took me DAYS of compacting to finish the job. The HF Tile/brick saw was the other tool that was a great purchase for the job.
Click to expand...

Thanks looks great! :thumbup:
 
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DCarr2

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From some who works on homes, with a truck that can weigh 10-12K pounds during the summer, I would feel uncomfortable parking in such a driveway. this in turn drives up my cost and your price.
 
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Git

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DCarr2 said:
From some who works on homes, with a truck that can weigh 10-12K pounds during the summer, I would feel uncomfortable parking in such a driveway. this in turn drives up my cost and your price.
Click to expand...

Why would I want or let a contractor park in my driveway?
 
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