Pavers for garage steps?

[kTHREE]

We are in the planning stages of building a better stair for our garage.
Our initial plan was to extend all the way to the bump out on the right and create a "landing" of sorts the same height of the door jam but only the depth of a common stair then go down from there.

While we were deciding on wood, the wife asks why don't we do some nice big pavers instead of wood...
Huh never thought of that.
Cost aside, anyone think of the downsides to making garage stairs out of pavers with large ones as the tread?

Stairs in question.

 

[Justind97]

I don't see an issue. Glue them together to make sure nothing moves. I'd go with a tumbled edge/rounded edges just in case you fall. Nothing worse than taking out chunks of skin from stones... ask me how I know...

The height isn't too crazy either, so you can either go with stair treads or make steps using step/wall stones.

Only trouble you may have is matching the height properly.

Check your local code requirements, I believe most are the same, 8" riser max, no more than 1/4" variance between step heights.

 

[rzims]

So, I'm assuming you would join them using construction adhesive? Or are you thinking of using mortar?
The other option is to do Keystone block (like retaining wall material) with a paver top for the step...

 

[kTHREE]

Only trouble you may have is matching the height properly.

Check your local code requirements, I believe most are the same, 8" riser max, no more than 1/4" variance between step heights.

I'm running the numbers trying to see what we can do for blocks to get the right height.
7.5 max rise and 10 min depth IIRC, which isn't remotely close to what we have now.

So, I'm assuming you would join them using construction adhesive? Or are you thinking of using mortar?
The other option is to do Keystone block (like retaining wall material) with a paver top for the step...

Yep just construction adhesive. I mean the slab is level there and assuming the blocks don't ****...

 

[Stuart in MN]

You have to make sure the heights of the paver blocks match up to the rise of your stairs - if they don't, you'll end up with an uneven tread height at the top which would be a tripping hazard.


I agree that a landing of some sort would be good, so you aren't teetering on that single top step when opening the door.

 

[James-W]

You may be better off using landscape block rather than pavers. As has been mentioned, getting the right height for the steps may be an issue you will need to overcome. It's not impossible to do, but it could be a challenge.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Pavers can make great steps.

 

[kTHREE]

Nice! How detrimental is salt on pavers?

 

[chaosracing]

Just like any concrete product, they can be affected by salt. But being that they would be inside, I would not worry about the salt issue to much, as it would basically just be residue from your shoes.

One thing though, make sure your pavers will give proper tread width and height. If not, when you go to sell your house, you may be forced to remove and replace. If you go the paver route, I would not glue to then to the floor, or just use tiny blobs for easy removal. You also may find that it might not be worth it to go the paver route due to sizes of pavers/blocks. I install pavers and wall block, we wind up burying the next course of block behind the lower course of stair block for height reasons and for strength (you will not need to worry about the strength)

 

[tomroblee]

There is a lot to be said for precast concrete steps. They are available in a variety of widths with or without landings.

 

[77Birdman]

Pavers or landscape blocks would be fine. I would add a landing at the top though. That wouldn't pass code in my county the way it currently is built.

 

[Kaizen]

pavers will be great but you need to have good concrete below them imo. you could try the landscape block but I don't think they will give the finished look we are used to seeing inside. i'd try for the prefab steps like mentioned above. One and done. Or build wood again but better.

 

[brycez28]

Unilock has a new product they release this year, UCara. It is a modular block solution that can be used for retaining walls, seating areas and steps. At the moment, they have, I believe, 6 different "face" panels that can be attached to the blocks. https://contractor.unilock.com/u-cara/

 

[brycez28]

Attached are some pictures of the product from a training seminar I was at a couple weeks ago.

 

[TRWham]

Nice! How detrimental is salt on pavers?

They taste better with, but still really hard on the teeth.

 

[JimVonBaden]

The genius' that did mine screwed up the run/rise, so I had to add another step and rework it.

 

[captain14]

There’s a YouTube video with someone building one for his rear garage man with pavers.
Door

I’ll post a link when I get to a desktop . I can’t get it
To work from my phone.

 

[6768rogues]

I don’t like steps without an inch of tread nosing. They are uncomfortable to use, look amateurish, and don’t comply with code.

 

[JimVonBaden]

I don’t like steps without an inch of tread nosing. They are uncomfortable to use, look amateurish, and don’t comply with code.

I don't know about code, but you do what you have to do.

 

[6768rogues]

I don't know about code, but you do what you have to do.[/QUOTE
I simply point out that to someone who is educated and trained in construction standards and codes, they look like a job well done by a do it yourselfer who does not have knowledge of building standards or codes. I see it all the time. I hope a mailman, UPS delivery person or the girl next door selling Girl Scout cookies doesn't fall and blame your noncompliant steps for the accident.

 

[Bluedodge]

The genius' that did mine screwed up the run/rise, so I had to add another step and rework it.

Looks very good Sir!

 

[Bruce 993 SEA]

I always use the "Rule of 25" for stairs.

The rule is this: 2x Rise subtracted from 25 = Run.

Therefore the real common 7 - 11 stairs. 2 x 7 subtracted from 25 is 11. Basic math.

You can use any rise for the individual stair based on the total amount of rise of the staircase.

The reason that the ratio works is the natural human gait comes into play. I have done 5 1/2 x 14 on an extensive deck and it was real nice...never spilled my drink!

Most cement guys only know 7 x 11...I have seen many stairs where 7 x 11 is not right. Of course asking a cement guy to do math is asking for trouble...! No offence to good cement guys....!

On our old house, the cement sloped downhill from the driveway because they just had to use 7 x 11. Not only did runoff drain in there but as you walked up to the porch, you had to slow down to take 2 short steps. shorter and longer steps were much nicer.

Cheers!

 

[6768rogues]

The code used to say that the rise times the tread exclusive of nosing had to be 70 to 77 1/2. Now it is more complicated but usually comes out the same.

 

[James-W]

I am pretty sure there is a code for the risers on steps. For some reason 7 and a quarter inches comes to mind, I probably heard or read that somewhere. It only takes a couple minutes to inquire at your local building department and it may save you some difficulty later on.

 

[machsnell]

I think it's max 8 min 4? 7.5 pretty standard.

You can get many pavers in bullnose finish for a more "professional" look. But it really doesn't matter.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[JimVonBaden]

I don't know about code, but you do what you have to do.

I simply point out that to someone who is educated and trained in construction standards and codes, they look like a job well done by a do it yourselfer who does not have knowledge of building standards or codes. I see it all the time. I hope a mailman, UPS delivery person or the girl next door selling Girl Scout cookies doesn't fall and blame your noncompliant steps for the accident.

I'll take my chances. I have a lot of insurance. My rise and run are within .5 inch of spec.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Looks very good Sir!

Thanks!