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Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Can I bring the wire through the meter box and into the panel on the backside?

That's a big no-no.

Don't know about that meter box but some are rated for a pass through. I's sure look into it before crossing that off from the list of possibilities.

Another way might be to set an exterior surface mounted j-box next to the meter and work into the breaker panel from there. Going up and through wall just seems like a lot of work given that there is equipment there already. Ain't no showcase.
 
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alfredeneuman

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2011
Messages
4,580
Location
Fullerton, CA
There's no NEC rule against it, but it's up to the POCO to decide whether they'll allow it.
Call them and check before you do it.
 
OP
G

grizzlebar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
93
Call is in to the POCO - awaiting a call back.

Have a few questions for the group, since searching doesn’t return much:

Because the price of 3-3-3-5 CU is absurd, I’m going with 2-2-2-4 AL. I had an electrician tell me to get SEU, but everything else I’ve read says get SER. Which do I need?

With AL, I’ll be limited to a 90 amp panel, which is fine. I’m only running 30-35 feet of service line to the new garage.

With regards to the panel, do I:
-Need a panel where the main breaker separated from the rest of the breakers (I’ll call this a standard type panel since it looks like the panel in the garage currently)
-Get a Main Lug Only panel where the input wires just connect right to the busses?
-Get a matching breaker (90 amp) connect the input wires to that and connect to the panel?

Too much searching makes it look like everyone recommends everything. Which is less than helpful.

Finally, the plan is to dig the trench this weekend. For the rough in inspection, what exactly do I show the inspector? I know the trench can’t be filled. From the looks of things I have to have the breaker and wire attached to the main panel with the breaker off. And the wire in the sub panel but not connected?

TIA
 
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terabitdan

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
152
Grizzlebar,

For ground rods you should spec a ufer ground in the building foundation. Essentially a minimum of 20’ of 1/2” or larger rebar in the concrete then another piece of rebar bent up through the wall tied together. There are other ways to construct one, see here: https://www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/what-ufer-ground

For the garage panel you can have a panel rated greater than 90 amps, but the breaker in the main panel must be 90 amps or less. For example a 30 space 200 amp panel with 200 amp main breaker is fine. It’s better to have more capacity than you expect for future growth.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Terry D

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
2,202
Location
St. Louis, MO.
Do not try to put a service entrance cable in that conduit. Run individual wires, could be copper or aluminum. As far as size, If it was here in St. Louis, It would be #4 CU or #2 AL. But I understand that most other places don't allow this, It then would be#3 CU or #1 AL. that would be for the (2) hots and neutral. The equipment ground would be a #6 CU or a #4 AL. I don't really know your codes there, But the sub panel, since it is in a detached building from the main service would need its own main breaker and a ground rod installed. Main thing is to keep your neutrals and grounds isolated from each other in the sub panel and don't install the bounding screw or strap. The only place your neutrals and grounds can be connected on the same bar is in your main panel or first means of disconnect.
 
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