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Pegboard support

The Frisco Kid

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Apr 20, 2012
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645
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Central Texas
I am about halfway through with my workbench, and I have decided to put pegboard up on the wall above it. How did you guys rig your pegboard supports? 4x8 sheet, turned horizontal. I was thinking about a 1x4 frame with 1x3 in the middle for supports.... any thoughts or experience?
 
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srmofo

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Oct 15, 2009
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SW ohio
if you have drywall or similar wall material they now make wall anchors with standoffs built into them. I saw them at lowes last week ...looks like they can go into any material so you could even put them into studs
http://www.toggler.com/products/pegboard/overview.php
they were similar to this

Edit I built a frame for mine but only because I wanted the board further from the wall. If you build a frame, you do not need any supports in the middle. All the does is severally limit where you can place items.
 
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Tim The Tool Man

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Mar 1, 2012
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Lehigh Valley, PA
I usually just rip a piece of shelving pine to 1 x 1 on my table saw and then glue and brad nail a strip vertically every 4' to my wall then glue and brad nail (or screw) my pegboard to that. I use the thicker pegboard usually found at store closings. Never have any issues with torn or sagging board and I really overload some of my hooks...
 

Mickey O

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Oct 25, 2009
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Chicago, IL
1x2 around the perimeter and a 1x2 in the center of the 8" side, the bigger the wood you use the more holes you lose. There are several thicknesses of pegboard, the real thin stuff needs more support.
 

Steevo

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I like the new plastic pegboards, that have cast-in webbing that stands it off the wall and stiffens it. Comes in black, white and some colors, too.
 

CT2012

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Oct 11, 2012
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Northeast
Is that at Lowes or HD by chance? I haven't seen it there, but I might be looking in wrong aisle.

Timely thread, I'm going to put up pegboard this weekend.

I like the new plastic pegboards, that have cast-in webbing that stands it off the wall and stiffens it. Comes in black, white and some colors, too.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
This uses a 1x2 perimeter and one down the middle. It doesn't flex and leaves enough space for the hooks to go in and turn.
PegBoard.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Speaking of pegboard, why do they make the holes too big....or maybe the hooks are too small these days?....The suckers wont stay tight in them

Are you using hooks for 1/4" pegboard but have 1/8" pegboard ? I had that problem at one time. Also the cheaper hooks appear to be made from smaller guage rod. I just bought some hooks at Menard's and they fit nice and tight.

My pegboard is hung on a 2x2 frame, with supports every two feet.
 
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ksj9393

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Jul 5, 2011
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Minnesota
1x2 around the perimeter and a 1x2 in the center of the 8" side, the bigger the wood you use the more holes you lose. There are several thicknesses of pegboard, the real thin stuff needs more support.

Like others, I ran 1x2" furring strips around perimeter with long deck screws to secure to wall. One section I did put a middle support in where I planned to hang heavy items, but find that I am constantly bumping into the support with the hooks. It's not just the holes overlying the support pieces that are unusable; the row below also was lost as the prongs on my sturdier pegboard hooks lacked sufficient clearance, I found.

As an aside, for my new garage I am planning to use the slatwall product on the side walls, with pegboard for the space above tool bench only. Anyone with opinions on slatwall?
 

hifi_hokie

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Scoutman

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Mar 3, 2010
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Huntsville, AL
I did 1x2 on the top, bottom, edges, joints, and at every stud. I ended up taking a 2x6 and ripping 3/4" strips cause it was cheaper and I had some extras. Since I was using white pegboard I painted the strips before the pegboard went up so you couldn't see the raw wood through the holes. I attached the board with white pan headed square drive screws.

Support it well, especially if you plan on hanging some weight on there. Using the correct hooks will help too.

When I first hung pegboard in my garage 10 years ago I didn't frame the perimeter and I had sections that would sag out because of it. I did the above on my makeover and wouldn't do it any other way now. Worked great.
 

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bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I hung a HD piece of 1/4" (Holes) pegboard and used the right size hardware for those holes. Used lead anchor fasteners into my brick wall and put a lot of heavy stuff on it. The anchors weren't good enough or I didn't use enough of them and it came down. Next time I'm going to use aluminum pegboard and epoxy the anchors in place and use more of them.

http://diamondlifegear.com/pegboard.htm?chs=25#stp2

Pegboard.jpg


I will use aluminum standoffs for a clean look and to avoid blocking holes. Might use a small aluminum trim to finish off the edges.

It will go well with the grey painted steel wall panels I have for hanging Acro bins.

Or I might mount both types of panels in cabinets with glass doors to keep dust off things but still have them visible.
 

Nowater

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Nov 29, 2011
Messages
744
Location
Southwest Florida
I ripped some 3/4" boards down to about 3/4" square and put them on the wall in between where I expected the holes to be, only in the field. The perimeter is supported by 1 x 2. The center boards keep the pegboard from bowing in at the center, and I'll use a few screws to keep it from bending out.
 

66HertzClone

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Dec 6, 2006
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Long Valley, NJ
I ripped some 3/4" boards down to about 3/4" square and put them on the wall in between where I expected the holes to be, only in the field. The perimeter is supported by 1 x 2. The center boards keep the pegboard from bowing in at the center, and I'll use a few screws to keep it from bending out.


This is what I did as well, it's been up for several years in my shed, Some heavy things on it without sagging.
 

rharman

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Apr 22, 2012
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Location
SoCal
1x2 frame and center support. I dado'd a groove the length (or width) in the center supports so I could still get hooks into that row of holes.
 
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