Pegboard?

[Talisheek]

I am thinking about putting up a few sheets of 4X8 pegboard in an unfinished garage. Lowes seems to have a decent price with mixed reviews.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_15497-46498...rentURL=?Ntt=pegboard&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID

I am wondering if anyone has used this stuff before. If so, how much weight can they support. I also live in the Louisiana where the humidity is sky high.

I know the wife would not appreciated getting the expensive stuff, so it is this or nothing. i am thinking about painting it with blue hammertone.

Any comments?



JD

 

[Steevo]

Well, it is only 3/16" thick (.187"), so rather flexy and won't lay flat unless supported at regular intervals. If you are running it horizontally (4' vertical and 8' horizontal) you'll probably need to run horizontal 1x2 furring strips at top, bottom and two in between to fasten it to so it will lay flat and stay semi-true.

If you aren't hanging heavy stuff, just hand tools and such, it should hold up ok.
Just be careful about long hangers that support enough weight to pull out on the pegboard.

 

[Jazz]

I'm using it. I have strips behind it on 18" centers. I'm not hanging heavy stuff and it works okay. I did use the gray kind though rather than the natural.

 

[aka Larry]

I've got the white version and used 1"x2" furring strips like Steevo mentioned.

 

[luvmyglockfou]

I also have this same pegboard from Lowes, and I live in the panhandle of FL where the humidity is also very high. I also support my pegboard at regular intervals, and have had no issues hanging even moderately heavy things like large extension cords from the hooks. Hope that helps.

 

[66HertzClone]

I think you would be better off getting the white version, you said you are going to paint it, the pre-coated version will give you a much better finish. Look for the 1/4 thick, it will hold up much better as mentioned.

 

[SpatialStage]

I had the white one up at my last house in the garage. We attached it to 1x2s on the top, bottom, and center going across the entire way. I had a pegboard tool rack which held over a dozen big items on it on one side of the pegboard. Beyond that it was used for little stuff. Never had an issue with it.

 

[Talisheek]

Thanks for the input. I hope to get going on this in the next few days.

 

[BFBOB]

You need VERTICAL supports. Studs spaced 16" are ok; 24" is too wide. Look at how the hooks will stress the board when loaded - down, not sideways, so you need your support going down.
I once mounted pegboard with screws through 1/2' X 3/4" diameter spacers on the theory that the hooks could then go through even over the studs for greater flexibility in placement. Bad idea. Those long flat vertical faces are needed to prevent big waves from forming.
One more thing: if you paint it, paint both sides. If only one, it will absorb moisture more on the unpainted side, swell on that side and warp.

 

[nolimits76]

One more thing: if you paint it, paint both sides. If only one, it will absorb moisture more on the unpainted side, swell on that side and warp.

I've had this happen to me. Until I read this, I wasn't aware that was the reason. I just presumed the board soaked up the moisture from the paint. Definitely go with the pre-finish.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think mine is supported every 24". Buy atleast the 3/16" stuff if not, the thicker 1/4" board.

Stay away from the 1/8" ****. The only thing that stuff is good from IMHO, is as a back of cabinets or potato bin type of stuff.

 

[Nowater]

I have the white and supported it vertically at 16" oc, and wish I had cut a small 3/4 " board to put every 12 " in between the holes to make it just a little stronger. The white brightens the shop much more.

 

[ajkr711]

This thread is a little old, but I have a question. I have a 4' x 7' piece of pegboard where I can tap into 5 studs. Issue is i'll have about 10 inches on each side (want it centered over the bench and there are other obstructions) that will not have any support from the studs.

My thought is to drill pilot holes in the 1" x 2" furring strips that I'm going to have around the perimeter and put in some anchors or toggle bolts for the sides, just to keep them from truly floating. My plan is to have vertical supports on all 5 studs (16" oc).

Also, i'd like to be able to structure this in a way where if I ever had to replace the pegboard, I could do that fairly easily and keep the supports, but want to have the pegboard supported by the screws into the studs, not the furring strips.

Any thoughts on how to accomplish?

 

[AnEv942]

Though I think you should have started a new thread...
7'-0" Long leaves 10" of over hang each end if centered, studs are 16" oc.
easiest would be to get an 8' sheet? Or add 2 studs or block horizontally and add verticals. But I don't think I'm seeing this clearly.
Sounds like where planned attachment to studs is directly? Could build a full frame of 1x2s on edge-attach it to wall then the pegboard. If you have full 1x2s horizontally top & bottom and at least 1 or 2 horizontal stiffeners on floating ends, it could overhang-Im not seeing the issue. hence I think im not understanding the question.

 

[rice rocket]

They make metal pegboard panels for about triple the price. But maybe just buy once and be done?

i.e. http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/s...ck-2-panels-galvanized-metallic-32-x-32-x-3-4


I like the versatility of pegboard, but personally can't stand having exposed tools that collect dust. I'm waiting for my Beta cabinet to arrive from Trident-Supply:

 

[ajkr711]

Though I think you should have started a new thread...

7'-0" Long leaves 10" of over hang each end if centered, studs are 16" oc.

easiest would be to get an 8' sheet? Or add 2 studs or block horizontally and add verticals. But I don't think I'm seeing this clearly.

Sounds like where planned attachment to studs is directly? Could build a full frame of 1x2s on edge-attach it to wall then the pegboard. If you have full 1x2s horizontally top & bottom and at least 1 or 2 horizontal stiffeners on floating ends, it could overhang-Im not seeing the issue. hence I think im not understanding the question.

I guess my biggest question is that if I have the 10 inches on each side with no studs, is this solid enough? I'll have the entire sheet framed and will have vertical supports running almost the full length of the 4' pegboard.

 

[AnEv942]

Assuming your frame is full width- yes, sufficient, thats where its strength would be. Even if you didnt have frame, a 48" length cantilevered 9 1/4" would be hard to snap, though might wiggle, warp , otherwise unless your really pulling or pushing on it. If your hanging stuff off the unsupported ends, is it going to break?, probably not, really depends on your frame. Which if Im seeing correctly was why using 1x2s mounting edge wise. flat not much strength. Could use 2x2 for the top bottom of frame if no center rail.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

When I first started setting up my garage, I thought pegboard would be the way to go, and it has been handy behind benches, but as time goes on, I realize I prefer having things hidden away in cabinets for a cleaner look. I also have little wall space due to shelving and storage.

Would I put up pegboard if starting over? Probably not. But if I did, I think I'd make them 4x4 or 2x4 panels that are framed that I could then mount where I wanted them over the existing walls, or move them accordingly.

 

[Nowater]

I guess my biggest question is that if I have the 10 inches on each side with no studs, is this solid enough? I'll have the entire sheet framed and will have vertical supports running almost the full length of the 4' pegboard.

No, not in my opinion. Run your furring strips and attach them to the wall, either with studs or anchors. Use exposed washer head screws to attach the peg board to the furring strips.

Or, you could do what I did. I took a wider (3/4 " x 4") board and ploughed a 1/2" by 1/4 " deep groove in it on one side and made a 45 degree bevel on the other. The bevel goes up and serves as a long French cleat along the top. The pegboard sits flush in the groove. Intermediate supports were planed down to 1/2" to match the upper groove on the long horizontal board. Really thin intermediate supports can go between the pegboard holes if you like, so no functionality is lost.

I used white pegboard. I like things bright, so I can see.

 

[santagary]

I love the 1/4" white prefinished installed over blown in insulation...nailed or screwed to the vertical studs above OSB installed horizontally with the white pegboard also installed horizontally, using the OSB as a "ledge" to support the pegboard initially. I broke a big toe trying to do this alone...the bottom edge of the pegboard acting like a guilotine from 4'. It's one of those 3 handed jobs. The OSB then supports any heavy duty shelves you might like to install and the pegboard the lighter, often used tools and in my case, older stuff. My motto is if it's on the floor, it shouldn't be...so find a way to shelve it or hang it.