Penetration oil.

[realseriousschitt]

O.k folks. I have a real problem. I have a European market jeep wrangler unlimited with a 2.8 c.r.d V.m diesel with stuck tite diesel injector in head. its resisted a 14 lb slide hammer on my initial attempt to pull.

question I ask is what is the bestest most effectiverest penetrating oil out there that u know off, or any home concoctions that your willing to share?.

cheers Carl.

 

[RocketScott]

Penetration oil: Astroglide

Penetrating oil: Mouse Milk


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[ant.foste]

While I'm not familiar with that engine, does there happen to be a fuel crossover supply tube that comes into the side of the injector body through a bore in the head, and that tube is what's holding your injector in place?

The Cummins 5.9 and 6.7 both carry this trait.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. A distant second would be Kroil.

alias Weasel Piss

 

[d.mcfarland]

Penetration oil: Astroglide

Yes.

 

[isb cornbinder]

penetration oil: Astroglide

penetrating oil: Mouse milk


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[isb cornbinder]

50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. A distant second would be Kroil.

Acetone and ATF do not mix. Therefore the mix cannot make a penetrant.
Google this.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Acetone and ATF do not mix. Therefore the mix cannot make a penetrant.
Google this.

My buddy made me up some for a project. I am positive he said it was one part acetone to one part ATF. He gave it to me in an atomizer and told me to shake it before using. Kind of makes sense the shaking as many aerosols require a good shake before using as well.

 

[MBfreak]

Reality and Google do not mix.
Acetone and ATF do not mix. Therefore the mix cannot make a penetrant.
Google this.
I have used Acetone and ATF mix for 50 years and there is nothing that beats it
If this mix does not help, the next step is BFH and OXY/ACE torch.. Cut off tool last resort.

Ola

 

[jeff lary]

I have a Mason jar in my shop right now with this mixture inside. It will separate in a short time but can be re-blended with a quick shake of the jar not really an issue.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I like Kroil as a penetration oil. I keep other stuff on hand for different types of work.


I also have some Dollar General penetration oil that I keep in my chainsaw box. I noticed the other day it smells like Liquid Wrench. Can anyone else verify the smell test ?

 

[AA7483]

Kroil. It's all I keep on the truck.

 

[firebirdparts]

Saw a study on this years ago. The most effective is ATF mixed 50/50 with a solvent like acetone. 2nd most effective is Kroil. so everybody is correct except obviously cornbinder, who is not gonna get a PHD in solution thermodynamics.

 

[driz]

50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. A distant second would be Kroil.

That’s all I use anymore. Just keep the torch away until the acetone evaporates if it’s in an enclosed area like a wheel well. Try if you can to start a week early giving it a shot a day or so. I sometimes build a small dam around the nasty piece with putty, tape ect if I can to keep the oil there . Also spraying it and then hammering lightly with a socket chucked in the cordless drill helps it sink in. Back n forth tightening loosening helps too. So does an air chisel with a cut off blunt tip ( knocks the loose stuff off shakes the casting to help Oil seep down . When you drive older cars in the Rust Belt you learn all the tricks. [emoji847][emoji16]


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[BillK]

Carl,
I have been using "deep creep" by SeaFoam.

But to be perfectly honest with you I have found after doing this stuff for 30 years if your 13lb slide hammer did not break it loose I doubt that any penetrating product is going to help. Next step is to get the torch out and heat the injector red hot and then let it cool off. That usually will get them loose but I don't think I would want to be doing it on the vehicle.

 

[clubairth]

Try the 50/50 ATF and Acetone.
It's surprising how well it works. Yes you need to shake it
every time before use.
.
.
.

 

[driz]

Carl,

I have been using "deep creep" by SeaFoam.



But to be perfectly honest with you I have found after doing this stuff for 30 years if your 13lb slide hammer did not break it loose I doubt that any penetrating product is going to help. Next step is to get the torch out and heat the injector red hot and then let it cool off. That usually will get them loose but I don't think I would want to be doing it on the vehicle.

Those stuck beasts that you just can’t do the dragons breath on are where the blunted air chisel shine. Just put that blunt end against a flat of the nut and let it wail with your best “ limp wristed style”! The more it bounces around the better.
The first time I saw that was taking a 2” JD axle pivot pin out of a JD backhoe. Huge casting and you couldn’t see the ring around it the thing had been in so long. Torch wouldn’t touch it , too much steel. We did torch pound oil for a couple hours” beers” , mostly just air chisel and Oil. Sure enough later you could see the oil all around the pin circumference then it would move a bit and came right out. Not a fun job but a lot easier better safer than holding a punch while someone hits with a hammer. The best part is that it was only an cheapo HF air chisel.


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[coljar]

I have used this product for over 40 years and haven't found anything better.

http://www.shamrockspecialties.net/SOK.htm

 

[WWShop]

50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid. A distant second would be Kroil.

I was unaware of this. Gonna have to try this in the near distant future.

 

[TractorJeff]

Hobby Machinist (?) magazine ran an article on "Best on the Market" many years ago. Doing Torque Testing the 50/50 Acetone ATF actually beat Kroil by a small margin while both slaughtered the Competition!

 

[czgunner]

I use freeze off. I’ve got no complaints.
Caveat is I’m a mechanic in the pac northwest. Nut a ton of rust here.

 

[Zaxxn]

Always have 50/50 ATF and Acetone in one of those pressurized metal brake clean sprayers on the shelf. Give it a quick shake and it's almost as good as Kroil, which is the other thing I keep on the shelf.

I've been also using a 3M Penetrating and Lubricating oil lately, which while not quite as good of a penetrant as Kroil or 50/50, has a long lasting lubricating effect.

--Zax

 

[fasteddie]

I've seen several "Best Penetrating Oil" tests on Youtube. They all come up with a different winner. One actually got best results with WD40, another I remember it was Liquid Wrench. They all usually include the ATF/acetone. I dunno, I have been using PB Blaster because I have 2 cans on the shelf. I tried the freezing stuff, problem I found with that is you have a ton of oil dripping all over by the time you can get the part chilled down. I didn't do much for me anyway. Best way is heat if circumstances allow.

 

[marineman]

At work we use one of several zep products. Not sure the name but most common is the yellow can. If that doesn't get it then it's time for the blue tip wrench. At home I use whatever is handy. I'm not a spokesman at all but the guy at O'Reilly gave me a can of seafoam deep creep while doing plugs on my Triton 5.4 and I got them all out without breaking any.

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[Jeepster04]

 

[3rdgendslmech]

PB blaster and some stuff called "FREE" thats far from free in cost is what we usually use at work. A few years back I was making my own with a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and old engine oil/hydraulic oil.
As far as getting the injector out....if its a pencil type injector, and you aren't worried about saving the old one for a reusable core, get your torch out and SLOWLY heat up the body of the injector. Dont concentrate a lot of the heat around where the injector meets the head just in case it heats up too fast. Take a good pair of vise grips and try to get it to rotate a little. If it starts to rotate, DONT GET COCKY! Spray it with whatever lube oil you're using and keep working at it. The more you can get it to move the looser it'll get. BE PATIENT! It might take a few times.
Now, if it comes to the point where you're tired of playing games.....you can use an air hammer....but.....same thing DONT GET COCKY.....turn the settings down or regulate your air pressure down if you have to. Small vibrations will do better than just going at it to beat hell and if you snap it off then you're super FK'd and will more than likely have to pull the head.
I work for a company where the majority of the equipment is subject to de-icing salt so I know a thing or two about how to get stuck parts, frozen pins and broken bolts out. Like I said....BE PATIENT and persistent.