Perfect slab needs 'fall' - solutions

[joefarrell]

Hi folks, new here. Searched but not clear, please forgive if addressed elsewhere.

I have a 45'x25' ranch house on slab - we have decided to gut it and redo with 1/2 guest suite, 1/2 garage - this is a secondary building on a prop. where we have built a new home and will connect to this structure with a breezeway to new garage.

Problem: existing slab has no fall toward what will be new garage doors to satisfy building code. Concrete guy says slab is in perfect condition (app. 40 yrs. old, very well built structure) Building inspector says we must break out the half of slab and repour to create fall. This makes no sense to me - common sense tells me I can pour something on top and bond or pour and grind or just grind or SOMETHING rather than ripping it out!

All suggestions/replies greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[JamieK]

There are companies that can pump a concrete solution under foundations, slabs, driveways, etc. to raise them after they settle over the years. Would it be possible to cut the slab, and then pump concrete under one side to get the "fall"?

 

[PurdueSD]

Hi folks, new here. Searched but not clear, please forgive if addressed elsewhere.

I have a 45'x25' ranch house on slab - we have decided to gut it and redo with 1/2 guest suite, 1/2 garage - this is a secondary building on a prop. where we have built a new home and will connect to this structure with a breezeway to new garage.

Problem: existing slab has no fall toward what will be new garage doors to satisfy building code. Concrete guy says slab is in perfect condition (app. 40 yrs. old, very well built structure) Building inspector says we must break out the half of slab and repour to create fall. This makes no sense to me - common sense tells me I can pour something on top and bond or pour and grind or just grind or SOMETHING rather than ripping it out!

All suggestions/replies greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

It's an existing part of the house... how can they make you tear it out and repour. I would expect the new addition has to be built to current code but not the existing. That would be like saying if you remodel a bathroom, you have to bring the rest of the house up to current code....

 

[Daniel Dudley]

I recently had to ask a building inspector to show me the code on certain requirements. i told him I would be happy to comply, but that I needed to see it in writing, on the books.

It turned out that he was wrong, and i was nice about it, but I could have filed a complaint. He should allow you to grandfather this in, but if there is no way around it, I would find a concrete company that would grind it down.

 

[OccupantRJ]

If you don't put the garage doors in till later, it won't be a garage, now will it?

 

[joefarrell]

Thanks for the ideas - I haven't heard about the idea of pumping concrete under to bring it up, I will investigate.

I don't really want to go head to head with the inspector - the architect agrees that the code exists so I feel like I'm stuck there. I suppose I could simply call it a workshop and put the doors on later - of course I'm sure he'll find a reason to stop by and visit down the road!!

Thanks again.
Joe

 

[bazzateer]

What's wrong with having big doors on your workshop? It just means you can build big stuff and get it out in one piece.

 

[Identaltech]

check out mud jacking.
the downside they bore a bunch of 2" hole in the slab to pump the mud(concrete) in.

 

[Ironcrow]

My architect said the same thing. I poured it level because that's what I wanted. The inspector signed-off without looking too hard. He retired and now we have a new inspector. The new guy is not looking at it, but if he says anything, my answer is that it is signed-off, take it up with the last inspector.

 

[Snap50]

There are companies that can pump a concrete solution under foundations, slabs, driveways, etc. to raise them after they settle over the years. Would it be possible to cut the slab, and then pump concrete under one side to get the "fall"?

This is not an exact science and the slab ends up with many cracks and will not have a uniformly level surface. I wouldn't do it in my house.
And as someone else said, you end up with a bunch of patched cored holes.

Perhaps the key is your description "existing" slab.
Building codes change every 3 years or so, so all existing structures don't conform sooner or later. They are not required to be upgraded in most instances. Investigate that aspect if it becomes an issue. If it gets to it apply for an "exception" or "variance" from the code, taking it to the state building inspector if necessary.
There is allot to try before giving up.

 

[Rudyjr]

check out mud jacking.
the downside they bore a bunch of 2" hole in the slab to pump the mud(concrete) in.

My next door neigbors floor was pumped up several years ago. They brought it up to the original chalk line on the block and it has not moved in the slightest even though he has two full size cars on it all the time. The holes they "cored" were actually drilled and less than 1 inch dia, when filled you can hardly find them. They told him that if it settled any it would happen within the first year and if it did they would level it again for free. Not a single crack anywhere before or after they started other than the control joint cracks that were there when they started.

 

[larry4406]

You can top coat your slab with a thin layer of concete - 2 to 3 inches. The existing concrete gets scarified (roughed up), a white bonding agent is applied, and then new concrete is applied on top and troweled. When building houses we had to do this to correct an elevation bust on a house (slab was lower than the street, so water drainage was wrong).

I have no experience with the mud jacking that is discussed. However, I would be leary on applying it to a slab that does not have any demonstrated settling. Also, depending on how the slab was poured, it may be pocketed and re-barred into the foundation (i.e., structural slab) which would resist the mud jacking efforts.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Do I understand that you are taking a 25x45 ranch house and turning it into a garage? and have built a new house that will connect to it?

I would think alot of the interior walls in the house were structural, to support roof structure, either trusses or built up. I doubt that clear span trusses were used.

I think the international building codes allow for either a sloped floor, or a floor with drains (which I suppose would have to be have the floor sloped to them) but I am not familiar with those codes, so I'm not sure of the current alternatives.

Charles

 

[joefarrell]

Re: Perfect slab needs 'fall' - solutions UPDATE

We have completed demo of interior and siding, replaced the roof, completed rough framing which raised ceiling in garage section, erected interior walls, removed all windows and prepped for new + french door (into residential 'half') and double doors to workshop area. And my beautiful, existing floor sits there - we are bringing the inspector out for a framing inspection and hope to appeal to his, yet undiscovered, 'common sense approach' to let the floor remain. We may offer to sprinkler the garage if that will appease him.

Charles, you have it correct, new home has been built and is connected via breezeway to this structure that we are changing.

Updates soon.

Thanks for the ideas.
Joe

 

[joefarrell]

Victory!

Hi everyone:

I know you've been waiting anxiously for an update...visited with building inspector this AM - the on-site visit convinced him it was insane to rip out floor - leave it alone and pour a 4" curb on to top at back of garage and add a saw cut - his primary concern was fuel on floor.

I estimate that I saved 5-6k this morning...one for the good guys!

Thanks again for all of your responses and ideas - I have certainly become an avid reader and I hope I get the chance to help someone out down the road.

Joe