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Perfect Wall Covering (Drywall, osb, etc)

gumbudah

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Jul 20, 2009
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290
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Northern Wisconsin
Hi there!
Looks like this subject has been discussed rather thoroughly on this board, but I think I have a new angle on it. After reading a ton of posts on OSB and Drywall, and trying to decide what to do for wall coverings in a new garage I'm planning, I came across another product that many may have overlooked. I'll get to that later.
For the purpose of this email, I'm considering only OSB and Drywall. CDX or BCX plywood can be thrown in the same pile as OSB other than surface finish really...
So, as many indicate OSB is good because you can screw into it anywhere, and it is stronger than drywall. I reallllly like this about OSB. However, I really like the idea of taping seaming and painting drywall with a smooth finish and high gloss white paint. What I really don't like is seeing fastners and seams. After doing a bunch of brainstorming, I've only come up with two systems to get the best of both worlds.
1. Placing 1/2" (or 5/8") drywall over 1/2" OSB. This could then be finished and have all the benefits of drywall and the strength of osb. The problems are then you have a thickness of 1" on the wall, which means custom jamb widths. To rectify this problem (which maybe isn't a bad idea) A person could go with 2x4 walls, 1/2" osb interior, covered by 1/2" drywall, then 1/2" exterior osb covered by 1-1/2" rigid pink insulation. This would then give you 5.5" wall thickness, allowing one to order standard 2x6 jambs. The downfalls to this would be cost, also, I have no idea how drywall would perform over OSB, for example will they shrink/grow at different rates developing cracking? will the osb expand, possibly popping drywall screws? having insulation on the outside seems like a good idea, but will it create condensation somewhere in the wall?
2. The second solution, which I happily discovered today is using a product by USG called Fiberock VHI. I've not used this stuff before, so I don't know if it's what I'm thinking it is, but it really just looks like high high strength drywall. The cutsheet for the stuff is here: http://www.usg.com/USG_Marketing_Content/usg.com/web_files/Documents/Prod_Data_and_Submittal_Sheets/FbrkARVHIInterior_Panels-Submittal_Sheet_F218.pdf .
By doing a look around their website at impact testing, it appears to be able to typicall take twice the impact load as standard drywall, with the same joint treatment!
All this being said, I've not even touched this stuff and I could be missing something huge here... That's why I'm posting. Has anyone used this stuff or an equivalent by another vendor?
On the note of cost, I havn't found a local vendor yet, but I did come across a rate sheet on the web which had this stuff listed as about 3 times the cost of standard drywall. Might be sticker shock, but with the low prices right now, it might only be the same cost as what the jobwould have been last august!!!

It really looks to me like a person could use either the 1/2" or 5/8" fiberock VHI please let me know what you think.

The other thing about rock vs osb is anchoring to it. I like the EZ Anchor. These work well even for rather heavy loads. In this VHI stuff, I'd think they'd be gorilla tough (Assuming these work on this VHI stuff). I'm going to be working on finding some other drywall anchor solutions. Maybe i'll post when I find something better.
 
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gumbudah

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Jul 20, 2009
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Northern Wisconsin
Well that didn't take long... I just found an anchor that I was looking for. I found Wall-Dog anchors. Here's the cut sheet http://www.powers.com/pdfs/plastic/2314.pdf

Looks like the rated capacit of these things is about 20 lb in drywall with an ultimate capacity of 85 lb.

Has anyone used these?
The outfit that makes wall-dogs also makes an screw in anchor like the EZ Anchor, which is the zip-it anchor. Here's the cutsheet. http://www.powers.com/product_02345.html

Looks to me for light loads a person could use wall dogs, medium and heavier loads use zip its, and for big loads use screws/lagbolts into studs. Between all of these, it really seems USG's Fiberock VHI is a great solution. :bounce:
 

back2class

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Jan 7, 2009
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Seems like a silly long way to go for ease of putting random screws in? I do not see how all this is an issue. Both are great with only very monor drawbacks. To do both just makes no sense and the stronger drywall seems like something that would break pretty easy too and my guess is cost alot more. Patching a occasional hole is not much work or expense.
 

rwhite692

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Mar 4, 2008
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Central Valley, CA
Fiberock by USG is pretty common stuff and is sometimes specified in the construction of schools and public buildings, etc. It is really just "tougher drywall", it has a fibrous facing material as opposed to plain paper... It's still drywall though, and if your main objective in all this, is to be able to place mounting screws for various things at random locations on the wall, IMHO, Fiberock is really not going to make enough of a difference vs. standard sheetrock...
 

burger

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Jun 6, 2005
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Erf
Note sure what you plan to do in your garage, but if it's a "working" garage, you may consider putting OSB/plywood/etc up on at least the lower 4 feet. After drywalling my garage a year ago, I wish I had done so. There are already several dents in the drywall from engine hoists, tools, etc.

I guess just ask yourself what you plan to do in the garage. Do you want pretty or do you want rugged?
 

Stargeezer

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Jan 12, 2009
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Central Nevada, USA
I have a divider wall 10 feet high, 30 feet long with double door mid-way that was sheeted with OSB and then covered with 5/8 rock. It was taped and skip-troweled and it has not suffered from expansion differences through a winter and summer season. Nice to be able to hang something anywhere you need to place it.
 

metal1313

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clinton NJ
i dont know about the fiberlock, it really is just drywall with a fiber face, and i dont think it will really hold more weight than regular drywall. if you really want it smooth id go with plywood and you can tape and mud the seams on it
 

Bull

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MA
One ting that needs to be mentioned in this debate is fire resistance. With plywood or OSB, you don't have any, whereas with drywall, especially 5/8", you do. It's a bummer, since I'd really rather not use drywall for a few reasons, but fire protection seems pretty important.
 

unpredictable1

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Jan 1, 2009
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Under a rock on the front lawn
I did this with OSB, painted with exterior primer and covered the joins with strapping stained the same color as my 12" baseboard (2x 6").

P1010055.JPG


P1010056.JPG


I like how it turned out, I too didn't want to see any joins of the OSB, and in the corners I'm using quarter round to smooth it out.
 

jmh21586

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Pine City, MN
CDX plywood can be taped same as sheetrock. Fastener holes as well. I have BC plywood in my 34'x54'.
It's just CDX with no knots on one side. I didn't bother with the seems. The sheete fit together really tight. If you think about it, after not too long you'll have sooooo much stuff on your walls you wont see many seems or screw holes anyway.
 
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usmc_noma

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virginia
CDX plywood can be taped same as sheetrock. Fastener holes as well. I have BC plywood in my 34'x54'.
It's just CDX with no knots on one side. I didn't bother with the seems. The sheete fit together really tight. If you think about it, after not too long you'll have sooooo much stuff on your walls you wont see many seems or screw holes anyway.


what thickness did you use on the bc?
 

metal1313

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clinton NJ
yea but the fiberrock isnt cheap either, and like so many other things you can search around and find good prices on it.
 

jmh21586

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Pine City, MN
what thickness did you use on the bc?

1/2".

Best decision I've made. I can attatch things anywhere. Don't have to find a stud. Seems are suprisingly tight. At first I was planning on using wood putty for the seams and then sanding and painting but they ended up so tight I didn't even bother. Just used an air nailer to put them up and then painted. I didn't even bother to putty the nail holes. I figure by the time I hang up stuff on the walls like shelving and signs and whatever else, there probably wouldn't be much wall still visible. But after I painted the seems and nail holes don't really stand out that much anyway. I was going to use it on the ceiling as well but then ended up using tin.
On my storage side, (shed is 32x54 basicly divided in half) I used 1/2" OSB on the walls and ceiling. Then on the ceiling I used 1x4 on the long seems. just cause some weren't as tight as i would've liked them. Then painted the whole thing a gray color. The painted osb actually looked pretty cool as the different chips take the paint differently so it almost looks textured.
 

jmh21586

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The BC plywood I used was $17 a sheet. I think it was cheaper than sheetrock because no taping. Plus it'll last longer
 

dreamingmuscle

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Dec 4, 2005
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Location
Tryon Oklahoma
1/4 inch plywood covered with 1/4 drywall will solve you jamb problem. It's not going to hold a nail or screw as well as 1/2 plywood. But it will be better then just drywall.

Besides that you can order door jambs to match your opening. They cost a little more. But if you are worried about that cost you can't afford both drywall and 1/2 ply wood in the first place.

Glen
________
hot box vaporizer
 
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dolfans

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Jul 31, 2009
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North Carolina
what i want to do in my garage is put that stuff that is used in bathrooms/restaurants etc.it comes in 4x8 and has bubbles in it,dont know what it is called
 
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