GeorgiaHybrid
Well-known member
That floor came out looking very nice. I wasn't sure about the stripe when you first talked about it but I do like the look.
Great Job.
Great Job.
Performance Epoxy -Epoxy coat project!
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
Thanks Georgia Hybrid,
I was in the same boat about the stripe. After a few days looking at how bright the floor was and a little plain, decided to go for it. Already bought the black epoxy so thought what the heck. I think it looks sharp and added something to mix up the floor.
I was in the same boat about the stripe. After a few days looking at how bright the floor was and a little plain, decided to go for it. Already bought the black epoxy so thought what the heck. I think it looks sharp and added something to mix up the floor.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
The floor looks slightly textured. Did you add texture or did the application give you an orange peel effect?
Did you urethane clear coat it or is it just an epoxy top coat?
Did you urethane clear coat it or is it just an epoxy top coat?
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
It looks like that cause I did a light sand of the whole floor before applying the stripe. The urethane has not been applied in those pics yet.
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
I looked back at those pics and yes that is where the epoxy started to setup a little faster than the first time. I guess due to temp and smaller squeegee etc. Hopefully the urethane will help a little bit.
thegarageguy
Well-known member
If you passed your recoat window, typically 48 to 72 hrs, then you will have to re sand and solvent wipe the whole floor before applying the urethane. I would suggest adding a light resin sand blended into your urethane. Shark Grip from Sherwin Williams works great. I would recommend 4 to 8 ounces per gallon. It will help hide the imperfections and add good non slip. Good luck
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
The grey was put down last weekend so I decided to go ahead and sand the floor before adding the stripe or the urethane.
Hmmm...I might do that. There is a SW down the street from work. I read up on the shark grip. Seems that it is not to aggressive.
Hmmm...I might do that. There is a SW down the street from work. I read up on the shark grip. Seems that it is not to aggressive.
houstonhusker
Well-known member
Bean, what grit sandpaper did you use prior to the black stripe. Looks awesome by the way!
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
I started out using the 80 grit but it wore really quick. Got the 40 grit peel and stick cause it was cheap. I put NO pressure on the sander at first. Then a little more pressure etc as the grit wore off. The first sanding I used almost 10 pads. This time only 3 pads using the 40 grit. Thanks for the comments!
nathank
Well-known member
Get the urethane down?
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
Just picked up the shark grip @ lunch today. Kept debating on using this stuff, but I figured what the heck. Been bush hogging my parents land trying to get it ready to sell the last two nights. I am hoping Saturday morning to do the floor with the urethane cause I need everyone out of the house because of odor.
How is your floor doing? Open the doors yet? lol
How is your floor doing? Open the doors yet? lol
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
Hey garage guy,
I just bought the large 16 oz can of shark grip. Do you happen to have any pics of a floor using this stuff? I know you can not see the sharkgrip itself but curious about the finish- gloss versus semi gloos satin type finish. Says to use 3.2 oz per gallon. I have two gallons urethane. Looking to help the orange peel effects in the floor as you suggested but equally concerned about sweeping and mopping with ease. Thanks
I just bought the large 16 oz can of shark grip. Do you happen to have any pics of a floor using this stuff? I know you can not see the sharkgrip itself but curious about the finish- gloss versus semi gloos satin type finish. Says to use 3.2 oz per gallon. I have two gallons urethane. Looking to help the orange peel effects in the floor as you suggested but equally concerned about sweeping and mopping with ease. Thanks
thegarageguy
Well-known member
It'll still be gloss, maybe know the shine a tad but barely significant. We usually add 2 to 3 ounces on a solid colored floor and 4 to 6 on a chip floor. Just do it, you wont regret it.
I just finished putting down half of my performanceepoxy 15 gallon kit about a week ago than stumbled upon this thread after wondering why the sun was already turning my top clear coat yellow.. Anyways, epoxy coat adequately resolved my issue (although I wish I was warned once the problem unearthed) by sending another base coat which I can apply on top of the one side cured after sanding, and than add to the other side after applying the two original coats in succession.
Just want to make sure I do this right.
40grit sand paper, than wipe down with denatured alcohol. and it should look like the gloss is removed
It seems the consensus here was that adding some type of urethane clear coat on top was the best idea? Even if its not required.. I am wondering is this for aesthetics or does it need to be done to protect the epoxy, because there will be three layers on when all is said and done so it should be adequately thick.
I will be reading through this thread again before I start to apply the new stuff so any updates are appreciated.
Here is a picture of what happened with my floor. it is outside the garage door which may not have been a wise idea, but it happened in 2-3 days, and it also was starting to yellow inside the garage door. Also, those are not flakes, but dirt that blew in from the driveway so hopefully I can cover them up with coat three.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2hwjlv5.jpg
Just want to make sure I do this right.
40grit sand paper, than wipe down with denatured alcohol. and it should look like the gloss is removed
It seems the consensus here was that adding some type of urethane clear coat on top was the best idea? Even if its not required.. I am wondering is this for aesthetics or does it need to be done to protect the epoxy, because there will be three layers on when all is said and done so it should be adequately thick.
I will be reading through this thread again before I start to apply the new stuff so any updates are appreciated.
Here is a picture of what happened with my floor. it is outside the garage door which may not have been a wise idea, but it happened in 2-3 days, and it also was starting to yellow inside the garage door. Also, those are not flakes, but dirt that blew in from the driveway so hopefully I can cover them up with coat three.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2hwjlv5.jpg
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
Got the urethane down with the shark grip added. I really think it turned out well. I am so glad to get to use my garage again. Everything is now ready to move back. The urethane (norkan hpu 747) went down really easy. Stuff is very easy to move and gave plenty of working time. Not sure how well it will hold up, but my first toughts is this is some good stuff. The urethane does not come with the mask shown in the picture, but the $30 mask worked out really well. I placed a fan in one window and open windows on the other end of the basement. This worked great. Pulled all the fumes out. No garage door open or anything. No fumes made it up stairs liked I was worried about.
The shark grip comes in small 3.2 ounce containers. Each small container mixes in one gallon. I was all against using grit but garage guy was right. I like the floor.
Take a look!
The shark grip comes in small 3.2 ounce containers. Each small container mixes in one gallon. I was all against using grit but garage guy was right. I like the floor.
Take a look!
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
nokkieny,
Sorry to hear about your floor. Not sure I completly understand about what is applied and what has not been applied. Looks like you got clear over the edge of the driverway?
Yes, you can use 40 grit paper with light pressure and then a little more pressure as the paper wears down. This helps get any bumps or rough spots and preps the floor for re-coat. It will not take the shine completly off but it will looks something like the pictures attached.
You need to top coat with a good quality urethane. I used the Norkan hpu 747.
Sorry to hear about your floor. Not sure I completly understand about what is applied and what has not been applied. Looks like you got clear over the edge of the driverway?
Yes, you can use 40 grit paper with light pressure and then a little more pressure as the paper wears down. This helps get any bumps or rough spots and preps the floor for re-coat. It will not take the shine completly off but it will looks something like the pictures attached.
You need to top coat with a good quality urethane. I used the Norkan hpu 747.
Attachments
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
If you apply the urethane within the recoat window then - no prep. If you wait mroe than 24 hours then a lighter sanding maybe 60-80 grit, wipe and top coat
I found the norkan stuff and its ~$100 per 500sqft, now I see why you guys were more upset when epoxy coat was only replacing the base, I have 1200sqft so I would have to spend 200-300 more for this, plus a mask, plus possibly some grip. Any cheaper alternatives, what happens if you don't top coat?
Ruddy
Well-known member
Mr. Bean!
Big sigh of relief to be done with this???
It seems to have a semi-gloss look now, which i think will be a lot better for hiding dirt, dust, etc. So, the sculptured texture is from the shark grip? it does not look spikey at all. I threw down a little bit of the grit by my doors that came with my kit and those things are like little sharp mountains!
Great job as usual, looks awesome!
Big sigh of relief to be done with this???
It seems to have a semi-gloss look now, which i think will be a lot better for hiding dirt, dust, etc. So, the sculptured texture is from the shark grip? it does not look spikey at all. I threw down a little bit of the grit by my doors that came with my kit and those things are like little sharp mountains!
Great job as usual, looks awesome!
TheBanker
Well-known member
I miss ole yeller.
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gabeancounter
Well-known member
nokkieny,
I searched high and far for a cheaper alternate. Really no luck. No you don't have to put it down. You can just re-apply the base coat. This stuff protects the epoxy from chemicals and provides UV protection. I don't beleive any of the epoxy products will not yellow at some point. This will delay it for years from my understanding.
Ruddy,
I am really glad to be done. This floor could turn pink with poky dots and I would not do another thing. I was a true anti-grit guy but this stuff is great. I walked around on my knees and hands with no problems. Very smooth texure. The wife was walking around barefoot and said the floor felt "cool". Whatever that is suppose to mean.
Banker,
Don't worry wait a year and you will have an old yeller!
I searched high and far for a cheaper alternate. Really no luck. No you don't have to put it down. You can just re-apply the base coat. This stuff protects the epoxy from chemicals and provides UV protection. I don't beleive any of the epoxy products will not yellow at some point. This will delay it for years from my understanding.
Ruddy,
I am really glad to be done. This floor could turn pink with poky dots and I would not do another thing. I was a true anti-grit guy but this stuff is great. I walked around on my knees and hands with no problems. Very smooth texure. The wife was walking around barefoot and said the floor felt "cool". Whatever that is suppose to mean.
Banker,
Don't worry wait a year and you will have an old yeller!
thegarageguy
Well-known member
I guess after about 1000 floors I may have learned something along the way. Your floor looks great! Enjoy your garage. Good luck!
Ruddy
Well-known member
You funny guy!
Ruddy
Well-known member
I hear ya Brutha, I hear ya!
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