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Performax table saw need some advise

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mncountrydoc

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Hello all. I am far from being a woodworker but have been elected by the wife to bud a few things. So listened to a local call in classifieds radio show today and ended up with a 10 inch performax table saw like new for 2
$25. I know I get way I pay for buy it had the fence and miter and turns on. I am not doing precision cabinets or anything just making a chicken coop and some wishing wells and fish benches out of pallets. So basically I want to rip 2x4s in half and cut some lumber to lenght. What would be a decent blade to buy to get going and any idea how to get the fence a little bit more solid has some play any other tips for improving a cheap saw besides buying new thanks


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theoldwizard1

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Get a blade with carbide tipped teeth. It will make a WORLD of difference. Freud is one of the top brands, but any name brand will probably be adequate. High tooth count blades give smoother cuts but are not required for rough carpentry. (I was given an inexpensive 8" table saw with a carbide blade that I wanted for jobs like yours. Works better than I expected.)

If you don't have some push sticks and hand held work piece hold downs, BUY THEM .... NOW ! LEARN HOW TO USE THEM !! It only takes a split second to loose a digit.

Good fence systems have an adjustment underneath. Make certain the base is well secured before trying to cut anything.

There are several good YouTube Channels on budget/beginner wood working. I like this guy : Izzy Swan, You best first add on is a cross cut sled.

Cut 4x8 sheet goods is very difficult. You are better off having the lumber yard cut them down to a more easily handled size. Or get a circular saw with a high tooth count blade and some kind of a guide. A circular saw is also better for cross cuts.

If you own any battery operated tools, check to see if the manufacturer sells a small diameter "panel" circular saw. These are frequently for sale on CL because people think they are ot a "real" tool. They are light weight easy to handle and with a decent carbide tip blade they can make dozens of cross cuts or even 8' panel rips.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Stay away from "thin rim" blades. You don't need them for what you are doing and they can easily overheat.

This is a pretty good "general purpose" blade: Freud LU72M010

While the maximum recommended thickness for rips is only 1", I'm sure it will handle 2x4s if you take it slow. (BTW, you are smart ripping your owb 2x2 ! Also, longer boards have fewer knots. I buy 2 - 12' 2x4s when I need 4 - 6' 2x4s. I have even cut them in half in the parking lot !)

If you want to splurge get this blade for ripping : Freud LM72M010
 
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finn

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For the projects you are describing, get the cheapest carbide blade you can find. My hardware store sometimes has "remanufactured" blades for a few dollars. They work well for rough carpentry.

Menards usually has some on sale, and occasionally has some "free after rebate" I've never had a problem with them.
 
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mncountrydoc

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The model before that came out but yeah there will nothing spectacular made with it but it was better then using my circular saw and CL around here is stupid


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theoldwizard1

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Voi

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If you really need to rip 2x4's your best bet at getting decent results from that saw is with a dedicated ripping blade, meaning a low tooth count. It's your best bet at getting acceptable results from that saw.

If you want to start with just one blade I'd rather cross cut a 2x4 with ripping blade than try to rip a 2x4 with a crosscut blade.

But if ripping a full length 2x4 is something you can avoid then I'd say a combination blade will be fine, especially since it sounds like you're not looking for fine cuts.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Voi said:
If you really need to rip 2x4's your best bet at getting decent results from that saw is with a dedicated ripping blade, meaning a low tooth count. It's your best bet at getting acceptable results from that saw.
Click to expand...

I have an even wimpier (is that a word ?) 8" table saw that I got for free with a no-name combination carbide tipped blade. It did fine ripping a bunch of 6' PT 2x4s down last year. (What a pile of sawdust !)

Would a dedicated rip blade do better ? Sure. But what is the OP building ?
... just making a chicken coop and some wishing wells and fish benches out of pallets ...
Click to expand...
 
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theoldwizard1

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TIP - If you are making 2x2s and the dimensions aren't that critical, start by taking about 1/8-1/4" off of each outer edge so that you now have 4 good square corners.

Now set your cut to the width of the original 2x4 (just stick it between the blade and the fence and clamp down the fence). Your finish product will be a smidge smaller than a 2x2 but it will be uniform and have square corners.
 
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mncountrydoc

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Well went to local hardware and they had a combo pack desalt with a 60t and a 32t blades carbide with thin kerf for 30 so that works


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ez-duzit

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tips

Good. Now you have a functional table saw and a spare blade for only $55. Make sure the stand is up to the type of work you will do.

Adjust the table and blade to 90*. Then adjust the fence to the table @ 90*. Then adjust the fence to the blade (I like it so the back of the fully raised blade leaves a hair's breadth clearance when the fence just touches the front-most tooth. This minimizes the chances for the rear of the blade to pinch the work, and possibly kick it up). I usually set blade height to have about 1/4" of blade showing above the work.

Make yourself some push-sticks for narrow work, and always control both ends of short work. Make a sled for accurate cross-cutting and large pieces. And apply self-stick sandpaper to the miter gauge to keep the work from slipping. Get a zero-clearance blade insert to minimize chipping on the bottom of the work. On wide work, be sure to apply feed pressure near the edge closest to the blade, while keeping pressure against the fence, front and back. On wide, short work, only do so with the miter gauge or sled, or you can use a temporary fence sled (piece of plywood as wide as the cut, but longer, to keep the work @ 90* to the fence).

Use the fence as a safety by wrapping at least 1 or 2 fingers over the edge when using thumb and forefinger+ to push through the last of a narrow work-piece. Use an out-feed table to support long stock. Don't stand behind the work, whenever possible.
 
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Voi

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theoldwizard1 said:
I have an even wimpier (is that a word ?) 8" table saw that I got for free with a no-name combination carbide tipped blade. It did fine ripping a bunch of 6' PT 2x4s down last year. (What a pile of sawdust !)

Would a dedicated rip blade do better ? Sure. But what is the OP building ?
Click to expand...

Exactly, for these types of projects the cut quality isn't likely of upmost importance so if it were me I'd just want to stick one blade on the saw and get all of my rips and cross cuts done and not do blade changes.

And yes, I'd rather use a ripping blade over a cross cut or combination blade, especially if the rips were longer, say 36" or greater.

This would be my approach whether using an off brand jobsite saw or a 3HP Unisaw.
 
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mncountrydoc

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Well I put the 60 tooth in cause my first project is using pallet slats to side my three year olds chicken coop man this is way better then using my circular saw I am cutting next to the staples as I got a pickup load of 1x6 used to make shipping pallets for big signs me and my helper got two walls done this morning already


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