Denwood
Well-known member
This is a cut and paste from my thread, but figured it warranted a thread here in the Electrical side of things. I'd summarize this post by saying that if you are looking for outdoor LED lighting, I'd have a good look at Asahom's S1080 series, at least today. I'd also recommend you check out Chris Maher's YT channel before you do anything related to LED lighting. Other key points are to research ESP32 based controllers, WLED software, and LEDs with individually addressable modules if you're doing any custom work with LED lighting. It's a rabbit hole!!
I bought the Govee Pro lights on a Black Friday deal a few weeks back. You can cut and splice, remove lights, etc anywhere with these “pro” lights, but there a few gotchas, particularly if you want to branch off or “T” to a different roof section. Essentially you cannot, as each light is addressable by the controller and communication is one way only. The only way to branch off would be to use extension cables at both ends of a “split” which may mean running a lot of extra wire, and potentially exceeding max length rules for the system.
Now, ASAHOM S108C is a similar LED product but with a far more versatile controller, much longer total string capacity, with dual outputs, brighter LEDs (70lm vs Govee at 50lm), power injection, and a comprehensive installation package that should almost eliminate any need for cuts/splices, and yes..the ability to T split. Not sure how they figured that out, but lo and behold, their T device ($22) also works with Govee Pro lights as long as you configure it with the Asahom app on first use. Oh, and they are about $100 cheaper, particularly the amazon.ca version in white...it's $100 cheaper in white vs black.
If you’re shopping for exterior LEDs, you’ll want to take a good look at the ASAHOM lights. Would have 100% gone that way knowing what I know now. I have gone down the LED rabbit hole a bit so am building out some very inexpensive controllers using ESP32 project boards ($10 each for the boards!) running the workhorse of LED management these days, WLED. Any LED projects going forward will use this setup, including a redo of our fireplace/library room to begin next week.
The Asahom T-Splitter is the little box on the left with 3 leads. It's connected to Govee Pro lights..and it works. You do need to install the Asahom app, connect to the T splitter box via bluetooth, and set it up for Govee Pro Lights...then you can remove the app if you like. The pic below is just a quick test. The T-splitter is now installed at the garage corner behind the shed, so I could T off to the shed. With these Govee Pro lights you can cut anywhere, splice anywhere, and add a few lights if you need to. The Govee app walks you through a basic setup so it knows how many segments (10 lights per segment) you have, and how many you have cut off, if applicable. From then on, the controller can address each LED light to do anything from mood lighting to crazy RGB effects synced to music.
Lights are set up today with a basic Christmas C9 pallete with purple added in as per the Missus' request. For @nicholam77 and assorted automation guys, the Govee integration to the house's Hubitat hub allows me to manage just about anything including loading complex effects, control specific segments, dim, turn them on/off etc. There is an option both in the Govee app and Hubitat integration (which I am using) to manage everything from my local LAN, so I'm only using the Govee app to experiment with effects. This way if the internet is down or Govee servers down, everything still works. After the Hub turns the lights off for the night, they are controlled by a few HUE outdoor motion sensors which will light up the house and garage for a few minutes if any motion is detected. On a new build, I'd seriously consider eliminating convential outdoor lights and just controlling LEDs like this. I'm using a small single IKEA wireless switch inside which the family can use to override the automation for the outside stair, christmas yard decorations, Govee lights and interior christmas lighting. The automation hub manages on/off based on the daily sunset/sunrise times, but the little IKEA switch will turn them all off or on anytime the family wants manual control.
The integrated stair and railing lighting has worked great for the last 10 years using a basic 12Volt transformer and G4 LED bulbs. I'm going to upgrade these soon to RBG lights to integrate with the house lighting.
I bought the Govee Pro lights on a Black Friday deal a few weeks back. You can cut and splice, remove lights, etc anywhere with these “pro” lights, but there a few gotchas, particularly if you want to branch off or “T” to a different roof section. Essentially you cannot, as each light is addressable by the controller and communication is one way only. The only way to branch off would be to use extension cables at both ends of a “split” which may mean running a lot of extra wire, and potentially exceeding max length rules for the system.
Now, ASAHOM S108C is a similar LED product but with a far more versatile controller, much longer total string capacity, with dual outputs, brighter LEDs (70lm vs Govee at 50lm), power injection, and a comprehensive installation package that should almost eliminate any need for cuts/splices, and yes..the ability to T split. Not sure how they figured that out, but lo and behold, their T device ($22) also works with Govee Pro lights as long as you configure it with the Asahom app on first use. Oh, and they are about $100 cheaper, particularly the amazon.ca version in white...it's $100 cheaper in white vs black.
If you’re shopping for exterior LEDs, you’ll want to take a good look at the ASAHOM lights. Would have 100% gone that way knowing what I know now. I have gone down the LED rabbit hole a bit so am building out some very inexpensive controllers using ESP32 project boards ($10 each for the boards!) running the workhorse of LED management these days, WLED. Any LED projects going forward will use this setup, including a redo of our fireplace/library room to begin next week.
The Asahom T-Splitter is the little box on the left with 3 leads. It's connected to Govee Pro lights..and it works. You do need to install the Asahom app, connect to the T splitter box via bluetooth, and set it up for Govee Pro Lights...then you can remove the app if you like. The pic below is just a quick test. The T-splitter is now installed at the garage corner behind the shed, so I could T off to the shed. With these Govee Pro lights you can cut anywhere, splice anywhere, and add a few lights if you need to. The Govee app walks you through a basic setup so it knows how many segments (10 lights per segment) you have, and how many you have cut off, if applicable. From then on, the controller can address each LED light to do anything from mood lighting to crazy RGB effects synced to music.
Lights are set up today with a basic Christmas C9 pallete with purple added in as per the Missus' request. For @nicholam77 and assorted automation guys, the Govee integration to the house's Hubitat hub allows me to manage just about anything including loading complex effects, control specific segments, dim, turn them on/off etc. There is an option both in the Govee app and Hubitat integration (which I am using) to manage everything from my local LAN, so I'm only using the Govee app to experiment with effects. This way if the internet is down or Govee servers down, everything still works. After the Hub turns the lights off for the night, they are controlled by a few HUE outdoor motion sensors which will light up the house and garage for a few minutes if any motion is detected. On a new build, I'd seriously consider eliminating convential outdoor lights and just controlling LEDs like this. I'm using a small single IKEA wireless switch inside which the family can use to override the automation for the outside stair, christmas yard decorations, Govee lights and interior christmas lighting. The automation hub manages on/off based on the daily sunset/sunrise times, but the little IKEA switch will turn them all off or on anytime the family wants manual control.
The integrated stair and railing lighting has worked great for the last 10 years using a basic 12Volt transformer and G4 LED bulbs. I'm going to upgrade these soon to RBG lights to integrate with the house lighting.
