Permatex Ultra Black

[Acuratechva]

You know how it says finger tighten and let sit for an hour before torquing?

Or i should say, those are the directions on the tube( i buy the big ones for calk gun)

Yet other directions dont say to do so http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_371.pdf

So i'll be honest, never followed directions. Its so counter productive to wait....that well **** that.

Anyway few months ago i had to remove the oil pan on a build to upgrade pickup. Engine still on the stand. Few days post assembly. Well the damn thing was still wet on the little valley indentation portions of metal pan. Never had a problem in the 12 years i've been turning wrenches, but this made me think twice. Anyone ever had a problem?

Also, FYI, i have had "bad" ultra black that would not cure before. I would gizz it on the bench and day after it would still be goo. For that reason i always test squirt a dab to make sure its still good prior to use.

 

[jacked_72]

Haven't had that problem with the Permatex Ultra Black. I have repeatedly had the problem where the cap shears off while the tube is in storage so that the whole tube becomes hard as a rock and your large size tube is rendered a single use product. I'd tell you to contact customer service for Permatex, but I think the department is staffed by one old lady who only works the first Tuesday of months that have an R in them between the hours of 9:00 and 9:15. I think I'm going elsewhere until Permatex gets its **** (and caps) in order.

 

[Fcvapor05]

Ultra Black is a moisture cure product- which means it needs exposure to water to cure properly. If you're in a dry area, it may take a long time to cure.

Moisture cure materials also cure outside-in, meaning they take a 'skin' and then the core can remain liquid for a very, very long time.

This is why permatex wants you to dispense the product and then wait before torquing things down- you're basically letting the material cure a little bit before you tighten things so much that the material is fully squeezed out.

 

[LXCam]

That's all I use on my engine builds. Funny I've never once read the instructions and have never had an issue. I intentionally try to torque whatever assembly it is down as quickly as possible only because my experience with other sealants has been that letting them skin over normally led to leaking.

 

[General Geoff]

I always pay the extra for Right Stuff sealant. Cures way faster and does not require any re-torquing or waiting.

 

[MLB0611]

At the shop, we stopped buying permatex and only use toyota FIPG awesome stuff, cures so much better than permatex

 

[MrGiggles]

I only use Ultra Gray.

Used it on cooling systems, oil pans, valve covers, motorcycle cases, and have never had an issue with it.

I don't follow the directions much either, apply it and tighten down. I prefer to wait overnight before filling, but have gone as little as a couple hours before.

I applied some this week and it cured even with high temps in the 30s.

As mentioned, the right stuff will fully cure in much less time.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Ultra gray is rigid... I only use it on machined surfaces or those with no gasket such as timing covers, diffs, and oil pans. Ultra black or "right stuff" on almost everything else.

Never had issues with any of them.

 

[Acuratechva]

Honda and Yota stuff is great but i have never seen them in Calk Gun tubes, and im just over trying to squeez out little ******* by hand haha

That's all I use on my engine builds. Funny I've never once read the instructions and have never had an issue. I intentionally try to torque whatever assembly it is down as quickly as possible only because my experience with other sealants has been that letting them skin over normally led to leaking.

I agree. In case of subaru cases i dont wait to torque as i dont want oil from mains to run down to sealing surfaces.

Fuji Bond is my hands down favorite but some customers dont like bright orange, i guess it looks out of place. So i try to use Ultra black on most builds for a factory subtle look.

I always pay the extra for Right Stuff sealant. Cures way faster and does not require any re-torquing or waiting.

5min is roably too short of a handling time for me in case i forget something but for oil pans and such it sounds awesome!



Oh another thing, anyone ever got "OIL" in their tube? It would only be logical that any oil they do put in would be compatible and not interfere with adhesion but that **** make silicone smear right over. I've had to waste a good quarter tube just to get it all out. Only use the big Calk Gun tubes.

Noticed it only happens when the tube stays up straight. Whenever i let it hang down with gun its not a problem. Which i guess makes sense as oil floats to the top...

 

[Tim C]

I use mostly ultra black now, if I'm setting an intake on a v6 or v8 where I've run rtv instead of the rubber end seals that **** I'll let it skin over for 5-10 minutes. Most things I don't wait for. I don't like any other color except grey or black from permatex and I don't like the other brands that smell like vinegar sort of.

Hands down best sealer I've ever used was Ford grey in caulk tubes when I was at the dealer. I glued a ton of manual transmissions together with that stuff and never had a problem.

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