Firebrick43
Well-known member
Ground spike thru Xps foam would work but why? Concrete is probably 1/2 the cost per cubic foot than the foam.
Permit approved!
- Thread starter no704
- Start date
Very good point! Guess we have a winner!
First congrats you’re finally moving forward with it. As for the footer, you’re only talking a tick over one yard of concrete. I sure wouldn’t **** with it for a couple hundy. But don’t let them pass the buck into you and watch out for any bs short load costs if they try.
In my world the drawings are minimum sizing for concrete. It is nearly impossible to size a trench footing exactly, dirt is not a precision material. I'd expect 2" to be really good. And, the customer pays for the concrete to fill the hole, not the prints.
Agree 100%. I was also thinking the outer form boards were filling that space. (And that would be tight!!)
larry4406
Well-known member
Not sure what the OP is doing but we do both at the job depending on what the pour is. Not an appropriate technique if weep holes and perimeter system is needed.
A good hoe operator can make a near perfect trench. Then pound in grade pins using a laser, prepare rebar per plan along with the UFER, inspect, and fill the trench and screed to the grade pin. This is an example of the trench method for a detached garage. The conduit is for the electric service that goes up the concrete wall and the adjacent piece of rebar painted white is the UFER. Grade pins are visible.
For a footing with weep hole and perimeter drainage, we cut the pad 8" below top of slab. This allows 4" of gravel, then an additional 4" for the slab. The footing forms are then "railed up" with 2x forms and we then dig downwards an additional 4" within the interior of the form boards. We call this "dig 4 rail 4" and is used when we have good soils for 8" tall footings. Here is a progress pic of dig 4 rail 4 and the grade pins are visible.
Only forming the top 6”’slab. Footings are just crete in a trench with some rebar.
Getting ready for the slab pour! 6-7” thick. Rebar every 2’. 3500ksi. Phx az. Buddy that used to be a builder is telling me I don’t “need” control joints, and I would prefer to not. What do you experts think? I would need to exclude in the area of the future 2 post lift at a minimum. Thanks!
Lift and very real possibility of machine tools in the future. I wanted 6” for the 2 post.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
6" is very overkill for all of that.
Well that’s what it’s getting! I thought we liked overkill here!
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I did 6" for my shop. Figured I would be sure to get at least 5" everywhere by calling out 6". Actually ended up more like 6-7" everywhere. And wasn't exactly sure where I was putting a lift so wanted to be safe. Don't know why anyone would ever do less, especially after reading lots of posts on here about people cutting out sections of their crappy 3.75" floors to add concrete for lifts.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This goofy thing called "money"
Tracs
Well-known member
Is that Ford ever going to leave the yard again? Looks like you sealed it in.
They have been sitting on that 2 months to pour ?
Plenty of room behind it (other than a couple other cars). 10’ clearance between the slab and the wall.
Seems like that took forever! But this whole thing has! Had to get a couple inspections and make the inspector happy. Had to get stamped plans from the city and no one knew how, including the inspector. Turned out the architect had the only access to them.
Tracs
Well-known member
You must have patience. I couldn't have waited years for this to happen like you did.
Ya, starting planning before covid, another week or 2 will not matter!
Tracs
Well-known member
Any updates?
Poured Monday morning. Had a 20% chance of rain and unfortunately got it at the worst time. Finish job looks like ****, but they are working on it. Worst case scenario I have a friend that does epoxy coating and has a couple grinders. 
been keeping a sprinkler on it that is on a timer for 15min every hour 
been keeping a sprinkler on it that is on a timer for 15min every hour Yes it does!!
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Rain should actually have been your friend during finishing. That is terrible finish work. I'm sorry you have experienced this.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Feel bad for you.
Tracs
Well-known member
Glad to hear they are attempting a solution.
racecougar
Well-known member
Hopefully they'll do what is necessary to make you at least somewhat whole (like pay for the grinding and epoxy). That *****!
racecougar
Well-known member
They're cutting control joints six days after the pour?
I'd push them VERY hard for a solution that you can live with. This is a really big eff up on their part. If it were mine, it would be getting entirely redone.
I'd push them VERY hard for a solution that you can live with. This is a really big eff up on their part. If it were mine, it would be getting entirely redone.