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pex type and layout

nemise

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Dec 12, 2014
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Massachusetts
I've read many different websites that each say a different kind of pex is best for radiant. Can anyone give me a definitive answer? Is it Pex-Al?

Also, what about design? 300ft seems to be the largest run I should go, but the garage will be all 1 zone and it's 26x32. Just do 3 separate loops? How should they be laid out? Pictures would be great :)
 
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dfiler2

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First let's talk a little about the three types Crosslinking is a chemical reaction that occurs between polyethylene polymer chains. Crosslinking causes the HDPE to become stronger and resistant to cold temperature cracking or brittleness on impact while retaining its flexibility. The three methods of crosslinking HDPE are the Engels method (PEX-a), the Silane Method (PEX-b), and the Radiation method (PEX-c). Several industry participants claim that the PEX-a method yield more flexible tubing than the other methods. All three types of PEX tubing meet the ASTM, NSF and CSA standards.

I think the type a is a little more flexible than type b, but I like the type b with a Mylar coating. The company I have worked for the past 20 years has sold millions of feet of it for radiant floor systems. 300 ft loops are the max because otherwise the fluid will cool down too much by the time it reaches the end of the loop. Layout should be on 1' centers, assuming 1/2" PEX. Because you are only having one zone the layout is pretty easy. Just start from the area where your manifolds will be located, roll it out along the outside wall to the furthest area then back and forth on 1' centers, as you get towards the end of the roll just leave enough to get back to the manifold. You may end up part way down a run needing to head back but that's OK. Just cover that area with next run, in other words your runs will not be just straight lines back and forth but I would rather have all the loops fairly close to the same length. It makes balancing the system a lot easier later on.
 

anthony666

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kirkfield ontario
pex a is all i use .. i really like the wirsbo/uponor stuff and their connection system

pex al is horrible stuff .. google 'kitec law suit'

dfiler .. who do you work for ??
 

dfiler2

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Got it, I have had no problems going back and forth, however I do make sure the supply lines are on the outside and the loops are kept to that 300' max. The first diagram shows, in my opinion, a loop that is connected backwards. I believe if you were to reverse the flow in that loop it would work fine. I live in NW MN and have been involved in many radiant systems and they all work. The diagrams are a little misleading because it shows that halfway through the loop the water is cold. In reality PEX tubing with water flowing at temps between 85-120 at a couple of gallons a min will radiate about 35 BTU's per foot for the entire 300' length. The temp and flow can be adjusted if you need to. I personally wouldn't attempt the second layout unless I was heavily sedated.

I work for an outdoor wood boiler manufacturer, the tubing is an accessory we sell to our dealers. Wirsbo is a great product and a very good company IMO.
 
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dfiler2

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I did edit the original post to read "outdoor wood boiler" and I work for the best, Central Boiler.
 
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dfiler2

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Thanks, there is a lot of great info on this site and I hope I can make a few contributions as well.
 

brewchief

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I wouldn't bother with the spiral layout in a garage, the added effort might be worth it in an area that you are constantly barefoot such as a master bath or kitchen.

Any pex tubing used for radiant should be oxygen barrier, even if the currant heat source would be fine with non-barrier use a barrier tubing as replacing it really isn't a option.
 

anthony666

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those spiral pattern layouts are meant for when all the walls are exterior walls, that way you can pipe the hottest water around all the edges to make up for heat loss
 
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LennyTheLizard

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Southeast MO
Well, I feel a little unqualified to make an answer after seeing dfiler2 works for Central Boiler, but I was going to make the suggestion to take a look at their website. They have some pretty good diagrams and information on their website that are easy to read for the average handyman.

Also, if I can manage to make the attachment work, I will post the layout I used in my 40X60 shop. My lines are spaced a little farther apart than recommended due to "I'm cheap" and it's "only a shop".
 

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  • PEX Layout.zip
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BadgerBoilerMN

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Most US and European barrier PEX is more than adequate for a slab-on-ground shop. We have used 13 different PEX manufacturers over the past 25 years without failure or serious problem.

There are many makers of PEX-AL-PEX on the market today. We use it regularly for above-ground work especially for high temperatures as it does not sag as much as standard PEX.

It is certainly over-kill for and radiant residential/light commercial radiant slab.
 

Qualitytools

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Not to steal away from OP about his layout and original ? but I am in the process of changing out some Galvanized pipe with PEX, is there a brand of PEX that I should look for that is head and shoulders above the rest along with fittings that you can recommend? this will be to replace aging H and C lines.
Thanks :)
You can PM me if you don't want to post to everyone but I figure someone else maybe needing to know
 
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