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Phillips #2 Screwdriver Shootout

Bolster

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In a previous thread I stated I was "done" with P#2 screwdrivers. Clearly the evidence does not support my claim. It's a shame the Phillips #2 came into such widespread use. It was designed to cam out. Sort of like how the qwerty keyboards we all use were designed to slow the typist down, back in the days that typists got their mechanical keys tangled if they went too fast.

So I've been looking for better P#2s than the Cmas I've used (and disliked) for years. I can't think of a way of testing these screwdrivers without risking cam-out and destroying them...maybe someone here has a good idea on how to conduct a non-destructive head-to-head test.

For the time being I will have to confine myself to subjective opinions, which, as we all know, "everybody has one" and mine are no more or less valid than anyone else's. So here goes.

Screwdriver%20Star%201.jpg


Let's start with the Snap-on. I've had it the longest (vintage 1990s), so its tip shows the most wear (sadly) as it's the most expensive of the bunch. Not sure how much more use I can get from it. Handle's good for cranking hard, but not so good for spinning, which I often need. Also the handle is blockier than I'd prefer.

Clockwise to the Williams. Same as Snap-on? Well if you look at the tip (see below), the Williams has anti-cam-out grips on the tip (maybe the modern SO do, too?). Same issues with handle as the SO. You do get the feeling that the SO and the Williams do a good job of "filling up the screw," ie, are sufficiently large to make good contact.

Felo is a new acquisition. My first set were their black soft-grip handles which I disliked so much (too soft and squishy, was afraid the handles would tear) I returned them for the wood-handled versions. I like these, although the grip is overly chunky for my preference and doesn't feel quite as ergo as it looks. Haven't got much use on these but the tips are good so far.

Wiha. Also a "globular" hand-filling grip, more rounded for a bit less grip when cranking hard, a relatively firm handle which I like with a nice almost "tacky" feel, but a little easier to spin quickly than the blocky handles because there are narrow portions of the handle fore and aft. Wish they had made the yellow end of the handle hard smooth plastic so you could "palm" the driver (let the handle end slip beneath your palm when spinning rapidly). Recently posted about my disappointment of these camming out, and learned that they're not the ideal driver for what I was driving, which were the terminal screws on outlets. Still, the tips of the Wihas have an odd shape, with the tip more pointed, and overall a smaller tip (see below). They're not the drivers I reach for if I'm trying to avoid camout. I know many people disagree with me, and perhaps my set is just worn enough I should replace them. But the tips seem smaller than ideal and don't give me the sense they're "filling" the slot as others are.

Cman. Seems mine are soft. Not investing in any more Cman. Although I DO like that knob on the end, makes it easy to palm.

PB Swiss Driver + Bit. This is currently my go-to setup. I own both magnetic and clip versions, and prefer non-magnetized bits so the clip is preferred. The PB Swiss bit fits the driver like hand-in-glove, no slop. The thin shaft and chamfered areas near the bit's hole work well and don't snag. I like the idea that when the bit gets dull, pitch it and get another, but I've also heard these PB Swiss bits are exceptionally hard and durable, so only time will tell, but I'm hoping I really don't need to change bits all that often. I really like the trim handle which spins easily and quickly. Trade-off here is a little less ability to "crank down" hard...which has the unintended consequence of limiting cam-out a bit more.

PB Swiss 193. (at the 12 o'clock position.) This is a heavy duty, confidence-inspiring driver. It has the most "overbuilt" feel to it, and notice the remarkably large shaft and tip. Bolster for extra grip. The handle is trim enough to be able to spin, but is large enough for a secure grip. So despite all the attempts at "ergo" by other manufacturers, I think this is my favorite grip for sheer usability and ease of cleaning. Also I am expecting the tightest "lockup" with the screw on this one, given the robustness of the tip. This beast is new, so I'll have to report back after usage.

PB Swiss 8190. New, so I don't have usage data yet. A delight to touch. Of all the drivers this is the one I'd most like a complete set of. The handle is just barely soft enough to have a pleasant feel, but still very firm. The finish is a little "tacky" for lack of a better word, and you get the feeling you could pull hard on it without your hand slipping. Yet it avoids feeling blocky; it feels right. The yellow end is hard plastic so you can "palm" it, which is a thoughtful touch. IMO all soft-grip drivers should have hard ends that slip under your palm. Looking forward to using this one, and will post impressions after use.

Screwdriver%20Star%202.jpg


Wish I knew more about the various tip treatments. Those of you who know, please chime in.
 
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DARKSCOPE001

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no craftsman pro? personaly i dont think its verry fair pitting those screwdrivers up against the craftsman hard handles. IMO the hard handles are garbage just my $0.02

THANKS
Sean Scott
 
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Bolster

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After posting I noticed I didn't align the tips so you could easily compare "girth," so here's another photo where it's easier to compare apples-to-apples, regarding which tips are more likely to fill up the space in a screw head.

Screwdriver%20Star%203.jpg
 
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Bolster

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no craftsman pro? personaly i dont think its verry fair pitting those screwdrivers up against the craftsman hard handles. IMO the hard handles are garbage just my $0.02

I'm not trying to be comprehensive (can't afford that), I'm just posting every P#2 that I own. Send me yours and I'll photograph it for comparison.
 

mrholeshot

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The way I test phillips #2 is I drive a 3 inch deckscrew in and out by hand. If I don't have a problem they pass. You can toss that Craftsman to begin with. The Craftsman Pro may make the cut. My Fav #2s as of right now are Snap-On (like shown), Klein and Husky Pro. Not super but really good are Craftsman Pro(Composite handle),Morris and Pittsburg Composite handle. The ones I hate are Regular craftsman, Greenlee, Kobalt, and all those other cheap *** phillips.
 

blarf

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Yah. The SwissGrip handles are a really nice shape. If you're spinning more than applying a lot of torque, have you looked at the 198 series cross handles? They're tiny (~45mm), but the little knob on top lets you spin them quite easily.
 

Robertob

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Craftsman Pro P2s are pretty decent. The regular craftsman P2 is a waste of money at any price.

So far I like the Weras I just bought.
 

wafrederick

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I know someone that would test them very well,my neighbor Ken and you will find out why.Get them handed back with the tips broken,does this to the good and cheap #2 phillips screwdrivers.My father watched him do this to 6 of them.Has not done this to my #2 phillips screwdrivers yet.
 

Major Ramifications

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I thought the qwerty key arrangment was not specifically intended to slow the typist down, but to seperate the keys most frequently used in succesion. In other words, to reduce the number of hang-ups, not specifically to slow things down to the point where there would be less hang-ups.
I vote that we get rid of it. That and phillips screws. And ESPECIALLY slotted screws.
 
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Bolster

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...I vote that we get rid of it. That and phillips screws. And ESPECIALLY slotted screws.

Hell, with a platform like that, you'd get my vote for president!

Yah. The SwissGrip handles are a really nice shape. If you're spinning more than applying a lot of torque, have you looked at the 198 series cross handles? They're tiny (~45mm), but the little knob on top lets you spin them quite easily.

No, haven't tried those yet! But those look like torque, not spin, unless you grab the shaft.

41SvB7M9fEL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
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blarf

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Hell, with a platform like that, you'd get my vote for president!



No, haven't tried those yet! But those look like torque, not spin, unless you grab the shaft.

41SvB7M9fEL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Here is my 407 which PB Swiss shows has the same handle as the 198 (their site shows the picture above):

attachment.php


The wide part for torque, and the nubby end of the shaft for spinning.
 

loj

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My P2 Wiha (from the blue-handled 3k series) seems to have a soft tip too. I love the handle though. Maybe it appears to be worn because of the shape of the tip. It's interesting to see that it's smaller than the other P2s. I'll look more closely.

I use a P2 Phillips screwdriver more than any other tool around the house. I very rarely come upon the occasion need a slotted screwdriver.

Great test! I love this site!
 

Cumminst100

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For me nothing seems to do better than my green handle sk suregrip it takes screws out that others won't and its older. The only reason I bought it was I ran across it and remember my uncle saying he had seen sk screwdrivers take screws out others wouldn't, and that stuck with me. From my experience he's right
 
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Bolster

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For me nothing seems to do better than my green handle sk suregrip it takes screws out that others won't and its older. The only reason I bought it was I ran across it and remember my uncle saying he had seen sk screwdrivers take screws out others wouldn't, and that stuck with me. From my experience he's right

Wow, news to me! I had previously heard people here on GJ complaining that SK drivers were soft in the tips.
 

lauver

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Wow, news to me! I had previously heard people here on GJ complaining that SK drivers were soft in the tips.

Bolster,

I hate to add to the confusion, but I have about 8 P#2's, all different but quality brands, and the two drivers that standout are a 20 year old Klein and a 20 year old S-K (green comfort grip). These two drivers are clear standouts when compared to the others. Not only do they grip well but they resist wear exceptionally. And neither of these drivers have any special anti-cam features that I can detect. They appear to be made of exceptional steel and are ground to perfection.

One of my newest drivers, a Wiha, has turned out to be a great disappointment. After 3 screws, the tip is showing significant wear.

I'll leave it at that. Your thread.
 

bchee

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Sort of like how the qwerty keyboards we all use were designed to slow the typist down, back in the days that typists got their mechanical keys tangled if they went too fast.

I thought the qwerty key arrangment was not specifically intended to slow the typist down, but to seperate the keys most frequently used in succesion. In other words, to reduce the number of hang-ups, not specifically to slow things down to the point where there would be less hang-ups.


whoa what is this about? I thought QWERTY was supposed to make things faster?
 
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Bolster

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I hate to add to the confusion, but I have about 8 P#2's, all different but quality brands, and the two drivers that standout are a 20 year old Klein and a 20 year old S-K (green comfort grip). These two drivers are clear standouts when compared to the others. Not only do they grip well but they resist wear exceptionally. And neither of these drivers have any special anti-cam features that I can detect. They appear to be made of exceptional steel and are ground to perfection.

So this has me hypothesizing that a quality P#2 must:

1. Have high quality steel
2. Be hardened significantly... especially when driving hardened screws such as drywall screws
3. Ground as thick as would be able to fit into a screw's slot, with sharp edges and sufficient thickness in the webs of the tip.
 

Indy_500

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I hope you don't mind me posting, i figured i'd add a few of the screwdrivers i have.
Grading Scale:
10- Awesome
1- Bad

Starting with the wood handle screwdriver going clockwise:
Lutz- 7
Stanley Ratcheting- 6
Pittsburgh- 7
made in usa (brand wore off, realized it wasn't a P2 so it was taken out in the 2nd pic)
Thorsen- 4
C-man- 8
Tool Shop- 5
Stanley Multi-bit- 6
Stanley- 9
Pittsburgh Pro- 10
Old C-man- 3
C-man magnetic bit holder w/p2 bit- 8
IIT multi-bit- 4

p2screwdrivers001.jpg
p2screwdrivers002.jpg
 
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Bolster

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I hope you don't mind me posting, i figured i'd add a few of the screwdrivers i have.

Much appreciated! I would not have guessed your favorites by examining the tips. You've got a couple of old soldiers there that should be retired, I think!
 

Indy_500

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Much appreciated! I would not have guessed your favorites by examining the tips. You've got a couple of old soldiers there that should be retired, I think!

Only 6 of these stay in my good toolbox, the others rest in piece in a lil "hand-box"
 

lauver

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So Bolster, what have you concluded from this here P#2 exercise?

Here's what I have concluded:

1) Phillips screw fasteners are pervasive across the trades (construction, electrical, electronics, automotive, motorcycle, etc), and like them or not, they will probably be around for a long time to come.

2) Phillips #'s 1 & 2 are the most common fastener sizes, and the #2 size is especially problematic because of the larger fastener sizes and greater torque capacity of these fasteners.

3) A good high quality Phillips #2 screwdriver (or bit driver) is good too have. It also helps to have an assortment (magnetic, non-magnetic, long, intermediate, stubby, and different handle styles) of #2 drivers to accomidate different situations/applications.

4) There is no clear concensus on the best, or even acceptable, brands and models of Phillips #2 drivers. Most folks who have posted on this and similar threads, have formed opinions regarding the best Phillips drivers within their own personal fleet of Phillips screwdrivers. But there is a wide range of opinions between these individual folks. The jury is still out on this issue.

Your conclusions?
 
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z28snksknr

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I'm really interested in how my Wera's would hold up to testing. Just got them and really love the handles, feel, and build of them. Certainly makes me wonder how I managed to extract a screw with my inferior craftsmans
 

blarf

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Your conclusions?

It's time to come up with some standardized testing methodology and start testing the screwdrivers to see which ones do best. The trick seems to be in applying consistent rotational and lateral torque.
 

JayL

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Looks like not all Philips # 2 drivers are created equal so are the screws most probably. If one has enough selection # 2 drivers then the best fitting one can be chosen specially for repetitive work on identical screws.

Will the Wera Lasertip present a distinct advantage?
 

z28snksknr

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Looks like not all Philips # 2 drivers are created equal so are the screws most probably. If one has enough selection # 2 drivers then the best fitting one can be chosen specially for repetitive work on identical screws.

Will the Wera Lasertip present a distinct advantage?

That's my prediction!! :thumbup:
 
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Bolster

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Your conclusions?

Mine are inline with yours, I think. Hopefully this thread will continue to get posts of users' favorite brands and models, and hopefully readers will try some of the brands/models that seem to be working well.

Overall generalizations I'm making at this point:
1. A top quality P#2 driver can make a BIG difference, and is probably worth the extra cash, but not every high quality P#2 driver is a winner.
2. A very hard tip (on steel that can handle the hardness), with a tip that fits well, seems to be paramount (reference my disappointment with the insulated Wera, and satisfaction with the PB Swiss).
3. I'm confused about the number of reports that yesteryear's drivers are outperforming modern ones.
4. Fit > Tip Treads. I'm not seeing a strong consensus that fancy tip treatments (such as adding diamonds, or cam-out patterns on the tip) are being referenced as making a better P#2 driver. Which makes me wonder if it doesn't all come down to hardness (and a quality steel that can handle the hardness) and tight fit of the tip?
5. Tips > Handles. Handles are for marketing & arguing preferences. Tips are vital to getting the job done without camout.
 
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MrMark

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Looks like not all Philips # 2 drivers are created equal so are the screws most probably. If one has enough selection # 2 drivers then the best fitting one can be chosen specially for repetitive work on identical screws.

Will the Wera Lasertip present a distinct advantage?

Bite wise, perhaps when new. It bites as well as anything I've seen and is the equal of the SO ACR bit. However, it is horrible durability wise. I've gone through two of them now, so I feel qualified to make a judgment, and they both have been trashed with very little use. They are soft.

Also, I can't remember the last time I saw a P1 screw.

Bolster, I did some more checking and I do have a good assortment of the Wiha's. The tip on the Wiha is smaller than some of the others and they do have the slight concavity which you noted. I have found them to be the most durable, however. And, I find the bite to be just short of the SO ACR bit (not screwdriver), which I think is the standard.

My favorite is the SO ratcheting screwdriver with the SO bit followed closely by the Wiha heavy duty model.

I do have the Wera Chiseldrivers too, but I have not tested them yet. They seem to be well regarded and they do not have the lasertip that I find to be weak.
 
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lauver

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MrMark,

Regarding the Wera lasertip: How long are we talking to go from excellent bite and no cam out to not so much bite and cam out? Are we talking 3 screws, 30 screws, 300 screws?
 
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MrMark

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MrMark,

Regarding the Wera lazer tip: How long are we talking to go from excellent bite and no cam out to not so much bite and cam out? Are we talking 3 screws, 30 screws, 300 screws?

Good question, and one that is hard to do more than guess at. When I say "little use" I am thinking way less than 100 screws. Probably less than 50 screws.

All I know is that I rarely used the laser tip and I looked at it under a loupe the other day when Bolster brought this up and it was just trashed. Just like the other one I had. I was and am very disappointed. I won't be buying Wera anymore. Their bits do seem better, however.
 
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Bolster

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Bolster, I did some more checking and I do have a good assortment of the Wiha's. The tip on the Wiha is smaller than some of the others and they do have the slight concavity which you noted. I have found them to be the most durable, however.

Interesting. I would say that verifies my experience. Because I've noticed that my Wihas have very little deformation to them, even though they seem to cam out more than I'd like, so I don't think they are soft tips. If anything they are for a slightly smaller P#2 screw than I normally encounter.
 
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Bolster

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How about this Wera Stainless Lasertip Driver?

I don't know about this particular driver, but in general, steel makers have to work extra hard to get stainless steel to be as hard and tough as carbon steel. In other words, "stainless" does not imply hard or tough (although really high grades of SS can do pretty well).
 

JayL

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Based on the above comments looks like the Wera Lasertip is not a good go to driver but rather a good reserve when encountering " difficult " situations such as a stripped head.

@ Bolster

Do you use the JH Williams often? How would you rate the tip?

tks
 
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MBeaty

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Here is a picture I snapped of a few different but similar tips.

Screwdriver%20Tip%20Pic.jpg


All of the ones I took pictures of are ACR styled tips. I was under the impression that any bit that was listed as ACR was licensed through The Phillips Screw Company, but based off what I saw, I am thinking this is not true. The three bits in the picture are (From right to left) Snap On Instinct Driver, Snap on Bit, and a no name screwdriver that is a licensed ACR design. Remarkably the Snap On tips are different on their drop in bits, vs their actual screwdrivers. The drop in bit reminds me more of the profile of a Wiha screwdriver where it seems to be narrower.
 

strnjss

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I've never met a Phillips driver that didn't wear out after some moderate usage. No matter how careful I am, it'll cam out a time or two every few screws, which eventually just destroys them.

I mean there's got to me some way of making an incredibly strong tip that won't wear like that.
 
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