Pick a winner- Delta table saw choice

[tarbellb]

Scored a deal on 2 table saws that a cabinet maker didn't want to separate.

1st candidate:
1990 Delta RT31
- 10" right tilt blade
- scoring blade feature
- 15.5 amp / 3hp 1ph motor (USA)
- made in Brazil

2nd candidate
2006 Delta Unisaw
- 10" left tilt blade
- no scoring blade
- 12.5 amp / 3hp 1ph motor (USA)
- made in USA

Both have Biesemeyer fences and cast iron wing. Both in very good shape.

Other notes, RT31 has a larger then std arbor which makes blades a little more difficult. Org owner said the RT32 "felt" more powerful, this could be chalked up to the higher amps?

And I only have ROOM FOR ONE I know how y'all think.

I could sell one and recoup most what I spent for the pair....

Have a vote and note below

 

[tarbellb]

 

[cgrutt]

Are you right handed? Do you keep fence on right side of blade? If so I'd personally prefer the left tilt Unisaw which is very similar to my Powermatic. I've never used a scoring blade but have a friend who has one (his saw is much more expensive than your typical cabinet saws) its a nice feature particularly if you work with alot of expensive sheet goods that are laminated with good veneers on both sides. I don't know anything about that particular saw though or how the scoring blade works (direction of spin, powered by separate motor or belt/gear driven, whether it can be lowered if not needed, etc.). I had a Biesemeyer fence on my old saw it worked great. Good luck.

 

[Yale]

I've never heard of a RT-31 but it appears to be a Delta/Invicta machine. I'm usually a proponent of the 'bigger is better' philosophy when it comes to table saws in terms of not only size but also power and capabilities. That said, the RT-31 does have the major shortcoming of non-standard blades and the questionable ability to run a dado stack. However, it does have the scoring blade (I've never used a saw with one but I can see where it might be handy) and a stronger motor. Research indicates that removing the scoring blade will allow it to use a 12" blade - but it can't be fully retracted below the table. Rumor has it that it can also be fitted with a sliding table.

So, like anything, it comes down to what you want to use it for. If you do a lot of work that would benefit from a scoring blade or are ripping 4" thick material (12" blade), the RT-31 is the winner. If you're doing joinery and/or regular ripping/crosscutting work, the Unisaw is probably the answer.

Another consideration is how much you can get for each. The Unisaw market is pretty well documented but not so much the RT-31. I've seen a posting that described it as too big for a small shop and too small for a large shop so, the market probably isn't as great for that machine.

 

[BTL-A4]

Can you set up each one and make a few cuts and see which ones feels better?

I'd vote for the Unisaw: easier to get blades and seems like it has more readily available accessories. However, like others have stated, you need to decide what your use case is and base your decision on that.

 

[Toolfool]

I'm on my third, and last, Unisaw. Each time I have moved there always seemed to be someone waiting to buy my saw so I didn't have to disassemble, ship, store it. Of course the current model is not the same as my original, but I've never felt any shortcomings in any of them.

 

[Etchase]

The Unisaw ie a good homeowners saw. The RT-31 is industrial.

 

[mhejl]

Unisaw. And get a riving knife: https://www.thesharkguard.com/product/riving-knives-and-splitters/

 

[tarbellb]

Good points and appreciate the feedback and thoughts of consideration.

Scoring blade- can be lowered below table height if desired. It runs off the main motor via a smaller pulley and belt.

Arbor- The PO had some blades modified by the local sharpener, just a larger arbor opening. I may be able to do this in my shop as well.

Size- Ive got the room for the RT31 but dont want to use more space than necessary, I wont have room for a slider attachment tho

 

[cmandp]

The RT31 sounds like a really nice even more accurate machine than a Unisaw.

But I think I'd go Unisaw for ease of getting common size blades, ability to use a dado stack and many accessories.

 

[RTM]

The odd sized arbor is my current problem with my TS, it’s a 12” w an undersized arbor compared to the norm. As a hobbyist, modifying blades was $$$ relative to my budget back then, was easier to run the undersized blade, kept the 12” for big jobs.

 

[johnre]

Go for the Unisaw. It's a matter of parts availability, serviceability, and just plain commonality with many, many others like it out there

 

[Yale]

The odd sized arbor is my current problem with my TS, it’s a 12” w an undersized arbor compared to the norm. As a hobbyist, modifying blades was $$$ relative to my budget back then, was easier to run the undersized blade, kept the 12” for big jobs.

In that case, you should be able to use a bushing center the blade. The arbor nut and washer does all of the work to keep the blade clamped. The hole is just there to keep the blade centered.

 

[dnschmidt]

What's the blade hole like on the industrial machine. Felder, and many Euro machines particularly sliders, use a three hole arrangement with a center hole and two smaller holes that go on pins. These blades are relatively common but pricey since Guido, Leitz, and people like them are makers. These are used in industrial processing settings.

 

[seber]

Unless you intend to set up a professional cabinet operation, the Unisaw is more useful. It is easier to set up for various cuts. Parts are easy to get. Standard blades are way cheaper so you can have a variety. Accessories are readily available both OEM and aftermarket. It will also be easier to sell when you get done with it. Or your heirs. The RT31 should sell for more but you may have to sit on it for a while before that happens.

 

[jar944]

I'd take the invicta over the delta.

It's a 12" saw. (1" arbor) without the scoring blade installed.

 

[Cruzan80]

Is the arbor a 1" opening? If so, blades are available. It almost looks like it was modeled off the 12/14 cabinet saw. Have you seen if a bigger blade will fit in it?

Also looks like the Invicta is missing some of its wings? If so, that again makes me think it was modeled off the 12/14

 

[RTM]

In that case, you should be able to use a bushing center the blade. The arbor nut and washer does all of the work to keep the blade clamped. The hole is just there to keep the blade centered.

Yeah, that should work. Have not used it in a few years, so didn't think of it when I bought bushings for a grinding wheel. Thanks

 

[tarbellb]

RT31 info

Yes- 12" blade will fit without the scoring blade (wont typically need the scoring blade so this is a bonus)

Arbor dim- 1" confirmed
I'm starting to think I can drill this out with a step bit. I'm going to give it a test run on a old blade

Selling the RT31 in central Oregon will prove to be tuff I think. I've got a buyer for the Unisaw tho....

 

[jar944]

RT31 info

Yes- 12" blade will fit without the scoring blade (wont typically need the scoring blade so this is a bonus)

Arbor dim- 1" confirmed
I'm starting to think I can drill this out with a step bit. I'm going to give it a test run on a old blade

Selling the RT31 in central Oregon will prove to be tuff I think. I've got a buyer for the Unisaw tho....

I wouldn't bore it with a step bit, you have no way of ensuring it stays concentric.

 

[BTL-A4]

RT31 info

Yes- 12" blade will fit without the scoring blade (wont typically need the scoring blade so this is a bonus)

Arbor dim- 1" confirmed
I'm starting to think I can drill this out with a step bit. I'm going to give it a test run on a old blade

Selling the RT31 in central Oregon will prove to be tuff I think. I've got a buyer for the Unisaw tho....

You got a buyer for the Unisaw because he knows the issues with the other one! Ha! If you are patient, I think the other saw will sell. Let us know how it goes.

I'm hoping the step bit will keep the hole centered. Ask yourself; do you want to do this every time you get a blade?

 

[MongoTA]

Unisaw will be kinder to you over the years regarding modifications and "making do".
If you tilt the blade often, go Unisaw. Left tilt has advantages in accuracy and safety.
Easier to move? Unisaw.
I love big ole cast iron, I even owned a 2300lb Oliver table saw. But here, I'd pick the Unisaw. I think mainly because I'm older, I'm smarter, and now being a hobbyist (although a very busy one) I know that the Unisaw would do what is needed of it quite nicely, and it will do it with less fuss, less bother, and with less aggravation.
And if the day ever came, it'd be easier to sell.
Regardless, nice score!

 

[Cruzan80]

You got a buyer for the Unisaw because he knows the issues with the other one! Ha! If you are patient, I think the other saw will sell. Let us know how it goes.

I'm hoping the step bit will keep the hole centered. Ask yourself; do you want to do this every time you get a blade?

Or you just buy blades that already come with a 1" arbor. They make several options. They are readily available (just may not be at HD/Lowes).

 

[MongoTA]

Agree, 10" and 12" saw blades with a 1" arbor hole are easily accessible. I prefer Forest and Amana, but there are others.

 

[rsanter]

Most of the time I go with bigger is better. But this is not always the case.

If you need a table saw for very serious work or commercial I say go with the RT.
If you are a hobbiest then the unisaw will do everything u ever need and more

 

[ez-duzit]

I have (2) Unisaws and a contractors saw; Unisaws with crosscut and rip blades--contractors with dado stack. Don't need the scoring feature, as it is so easy to score before cutting through anyway. But the bigger saw should be heavier duty. I'd marry them, in lieu of an extension table.

Here's where I combined the Unisaw and contractors saw.

 

[jar944]

Most of the time I go with bigger is better. But this is not always the case.

I'll agree with the first sentence, and disagree with the second.


I've never wished I had a smaller peice of equipment.

 

[subroc]

Keep the Unisaw

 

[Git]

Do you have the ability to check the blade/arbor runout and how parallel the slots in the table are to the blade?

 

[tarbellb]

I havent had a chance to really go over them, but the seller is a high-end cabinet and trim carpenter and I suspect he had these dialed in.

Im still waffling over the two, leaning towards the bigger capacity (if I ditch the scoring blade) RT31.

Plus I have a buyer for the Uni right now and its taking up critical shop space

 

[Cruzan80]

Plus I have a buyer for the Uni right now and its taking up critical shop space

This is the biggest deciding factor, IMO. Knowing one can leave ASAP would heavily tilt it for me.

 

[tak1313]

Unisaw. Parts and accessories are more readily available - new, used, and aftermarket. Parts are cheaper because of previous statement.

A new 12 inch blade is more than "a little more" expensive most of the time. If you plan to curry multiple blades for different uses (rip, crosscut, etc.) it will add up REALLY fast.

Unless for some quirky homeowner reason that you NEED a 12 inch blade, that extra 2 inches is pretty useless. I can't even think of a time when I thought "gee, I wish I had 12 inches of blade instead of 10" when using my table saw - caveat being it makes a big difference when talking about miter saws for stuff like cutting moulding vertically (which I've never had any need to do on a table saw).