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Pick ONE Ratchet for Portable 3/8 Intermediate Socket Kit

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oldschoolcraft

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I have a set of craftsman US intermediate length 3/8 sockets that I want to add to my portable car toolkit which has zero sockets currently.

This particular socket set came with a stubby handled non-locking flex head 3/8 drive ratchet. I still have it, but it seems suboptimal as a single do-all ratchet if it’s all you have.

If you had to pick a single ratchet to go with this set, which style do you pick and why?

  • Stubby vs Regular vs Long
  • Fixed versus Flex versus Locking flex head versus roto
  • Metal versus plastic versus rubber handle
Not limited to car repair, just a general purpose portable tool kit. The goal isn’t to make work fast, it’s to make work possible. Goal is smallest possible tool kit that can do anything even if it’s slow and a hassle, but it’s possible and it’s still faster than doing a 30+ minute round trip to get a more appropriate tool.

Cheating possibility: what if you also carried a 1/2” breaker bar or t-handle with lugnut sockets in the car. And you added a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. If you felt the need for the single 3/8 ratchet to be long, do you now feel like regular or stubby is better?
 
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Komet

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Long and fixed is out for access reasons, I can use a flex like a fixed but not vice-versa. Flex bends around obstructions better than roto and locking isn't a need.

Is stubby flex a thing? Might be the best companion to a breaker bar, otherwise if we're talking one tool then regular flex seems like the way to go.

Metal handle is technically slimmest which allows greatest access, but a flex can accommodate extra handle width by flexing more so I'd leave that to preference / availability.
 
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ecotec

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Standard length.

I have done 30 years of electrical work with standard length 3/8” ratchets.
 
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f121

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If you have a breaker bar for lug nuts, then a standard quick release ratchet like in every 3/8 set ever made…maybe it’s just what I’m conditioned to expect, but other ratchet designs feel like a useful addition, not a replacement.

FR80 is my preference.
 
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ecotec

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I would also suggest staying away from lower tooth count ratchets and ratchets with huge heads (like Proto).

Start at 72 teeth… which gives you tons of options.

At bare minimum, an SK roundhead like the 45170. I used one for years before I upgraded to a double pawl Wright.

I think that the three ratchets on the right side of my picture make good standard ratchets.

The Proto’s head is too big, the 36 tooth Armstrong is not great in tight spaces, this style Pittsburgh Pro is also not great in tight spaces because of the handle. Not pictured is the comfort grip Pittsburgh Pro, which I think is too long for a standard ratchet. They are wonderful ratchets for the money, though… especially the composite version.

The Wright is ideal, because of the size, tooth count and the reasonable price point for an American made ratchet.

The Snap-on is also terrific, but I would consider it too expensive for a travel kit.
 

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lardy1

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Standard length/ flex handle. I personally don't mind locking flex but many dislike the locking feature.
 
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Fedwrench

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www.tekton.com

3/8 Inch Drive x 8 Inch Flex Head Ratchet | TEKTON | SRH21108

3/8 inch drive x 8 inch flex head ratchet. 90-tooth, 4-degree swing. 180-degree, 9-position Flex Head. Sleek, comfortable handle. SRH21108.
www.tekton.com www.tekton.com

This Tekton gives you an excellent working length combined with a flex head. If you want longer, Tekton offers a 12 inch long version.
You mentioned a 1/2 inch breaker bar with 1/2 f x 3/8 m adapter. you may want to consider a telescoping breaker bar to save space: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in...bar-58627.html?_br_psugg_q=extendable+ratchet
 
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ecotec

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I am not averse to lowering the outlay of cost for a travel kit.

The socket set you like the least out of your garage or from a garage sale… basically put together a nice set out of your spares (I know not everyone has this option).
 
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qqzj

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It’s a pity to use those sockets to begin with. They are pretty rare and almost collectible. I would get some new med length ones
 
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oldschoolcraft

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qqzj said:
It’s a pity to use those sockets to begin with. They are pretty rare and almost collectible. I would get some new med length ones
Click to expand...
Yeah I thought about that too. But to be honest I’ll very rarely use them in my car kit anyway. The reason I never had them in my car kit is in the last decade, they’d have come in handy for me maybe once ever 2 to 3 years and wasn’t a show stopper.

My bigger concern is my car or trunk contents getting stolen. I do have sentimental value in this socket set. It was my first socket set! Got her in the mid 90s. But what good are they if I never get to see or use them?
 
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oldschoolcraft

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assassin10000 said:
I keep a 12" matco 3/8 locking flex in my go bag kit.

If I need longer, I can use an extension in a socket over the handle. Metal handle, no soft handle for this reason.
Click to expand...

3/8" DRIVE 11-1/2" EIGHTY8 TOOTH LOCKING FLEX HEAD RATCHET BFR128LF | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com www.matcotools.com

is this the one you have? Looks ****! I love that it does not have a quick release button. For a portable seldom-used car kit, the convenience of QD the sockets is not outweighed by potential for losing them.
 
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tamaraw

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This thread is going to be not so useful without a clear cut usage scenario; everyone will just pick whatever they like. You also won't be able to do "everything" with a small mobile kit, you will just have to settle for "most things you could reasonably run into".
oldschoolcraft said:
Not limited to car repair, just a general purpose portable tool kit.
Click to expand...
That's an extremely broad scope. Vehicle related things? Industrial machinery? Plumbing? Carpentry? Electrical? lol

But anyway, if I had to carry a ratchet in my car kit, I would go with:

Standard length, non-flex because...
- too long of a handle won't fit in a lot of places
- flex not required on shorter lengths
- flex joints can be awkward with a cheater bar

And a knurled metal handle because...
- straight round knurled handle fits a cheater bar easily and securely
- holds up well when set down on rough concrete, gravel, dirt, etc. or accidentally stepped on
- maintains decent grip in rain outdoors or in case of fluid leaks


Personally, I just carry a few things tailored specifically for my car:

- Ko-ken 450mm 1/2" L-handle and plastic covered lug nut socket
- Asahi lighttool 10x12 and 14x17 offset box end wrenches
- Wiha 10mm T-handle
- Vessel +2 and -6 screwdriver (tang-through, but the cheap B-370 models)
- Some ancient Sears Japan pliers
- The factory scissor jack
- The factory sunroof crank

I feel like if I really need fancier stuff, then I would probably just take the 30 minutes or whatever to go do it right instead of struggling with a stripped down kit.

If you want to tackle a crazy variety of stuff, I guess you could carry some adjustable wrenches, pliers wrench, shears/knives, a hacksaw, maybe a pruning saw, some files/rasps, etc. YMMV
 
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assassin10000

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Etchase

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I find the Proto round head 5257F very versatile. Those extendable Facoms ( or USAG if it’s cheaper) are probably the way to go. Several distributers (firstinfo being one) offer Taiwan locking flex head extendable 72 tooth units that are good and under $30 if you like the locking type. It’s not junk.

FIRSTINFO 3/8-Inch Drive Locking & Flexible Extendable Ratchet Wrench Reversible, Soft-Grip with 72-Tooth Geared Action (Length: 10.2 to 14.1 inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R46Y2GR/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 
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Hannahranga

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tamaraw said:
I feel like if I really need fancier stuff, then I would probably just take the 30 minutes or whatever to go do it right instead of struggling with a stripped down kit.
Click to expand...

There's also the argument of what exactly are you fixing without spares. Or alternatively what tools do you need to install what ever spares you carry.

All that said I've got a 30kg tool bag in the back of my 4x4 mostly cos I end up doing most of my mechanical work at someone else's workshops so I'm not sure if I can talk.
 
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CS454

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KnurledNut said:
I used one of those itinerantly for years as my go-to. Still doing the same but with the locking version (FX80a). I use it and a standard handle flex 1/4 (TF72) primarily.
I personally wouldn’t want anything shorter if it was my only ratchet.
Click to expand...
FBF80 and FLL80 have been my daily users for a decade, 12" flex with bent handle and 18" fixed. I've honestly only discovered the want for a plain old F80 quite recently.
 
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seber

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Deep East Tx.
In spite of having around twenty 3/8 ratchets, I rarely ever pick up anything but a long flex. It does everything but the extremely rare hard to fit into spaces. The long handle eliminates the need for a breaker bar and the flex head takes care of virtually all access problems. In my case it is a Snap-on pear head but lots of choices.
 
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Dave455

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Long Flex - no doubt about it!

I’ve got three vehicles that I leave tools in. One is newer so I haven’t included sockets, the other two both include a standard ratchet, and I’ve come to realise they are totally inadequate.

If I’m doing a job at home, with all my tools, it’s usually my long / flex 3/8 ratchet I’m reaching for first, and it’s the tool I miss if I’m doing anything with my vehicle kit.

I’ve amended some of the other tools in my vehicle kits to reflect reality a bit more. Regular length wrenches have been replaced by long ones. Ditto the hex keys. Over time I’ll probably upgrade the ratchet’s too!

Only reason not to is if you’re physically constrained by a particular box you like. I’m in that situation as I like ammo boxes for durability / low cost - I was already considering the Facom extendable before shibertus posted his!
 
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Firebrick43

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I would use a long handle, if nothing else because many tensioner pulleys can be Un tensioned for fan belt replacement by one on many cars if they are thin. The extendable handle facoms look interesting but there are several cars that I have worked on that the handle is to fat to replace a fan belt with.
 
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qqzj

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I think a medium length locking flex head is the best. Too long, too short, too flexy, and no flex are more likely to get stuck.
 
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