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Picked Up a New Saw

Rinspeed

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I haven't fired it up yet but I'm pretty excited. It has over 1 HP more than my MS441 but weights .7 pounds less. So I guess I will probably sell the 441 to get some of the money back. We had three or four large trees go down out back in a wind storm a couple weeks ago. Anyone have one and what are your thoughts.




500I.jpg
 
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cgrutt

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Nice saw. I had two Stihls (362 and 440 IIRC) but had to sell both of them due to financial issues. Had two Huskys before that and Stihls are hands down a better saw IMO. Can't wait to get another one. Good luck with it.
 

MongoTA

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It's always good to have a large saw for those special occasions.

I'm in the Husky line, I love my 395XP, but not the weight, especially with my wrecked shoulder. Need rotator cuff surgery. I look forward to fuel refills so I can give my arms a rest!

I hope your new saw serves you well.
 

Pinemarten

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Jan 23, 2023
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Washington
Nice saw! British Columbia timber faller Buckin' Billy Ray got one and wasn't too impressed. He has come around since then. The saw wasn't old school like his McCulloch or Husky saws. Now he is stoked about it.

 
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Rinspeed

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I'm in the Husky line, I love my 395XP, but not the weight, especially with my wrecked shoulder. Need rotator cuff surgery. I look forward to fuel refills so I can give my arms a rest!

I hope your new saw serves you well.





Thank you Sir, my brother cuts for a living and he runs a Husky. Now he runs a 372XP but his previous one was a 395XP and it ripped very well. Reason I went with the 500i is because the power to weight is off the charts. Next saw will be a MS261 just because I'm getting a little older and not nowhere near as strong as I used to be.
 

Kurt4440

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I used a friends MS 500i shortly after they first came out. I was impressed with it and thought about selling my 084 and getting one, but, they were difficult to obtain.
 
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Rinspeed

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I used a friends MS 500i shortly after they first came out. I was impressed with it and thought about selling my 084 and getting one, but, they were difficult to obtain.




They still are, I just happened to be in Runnings and they had one on the shelf. Both the other local Stihl dealers said they had no idea when they would get one in and they both had a list of people interested. I'm sure being made in Germany doesn't help and they seem to be quite popular. Mine has a 25" bar and if I didn't already have four chains I might have swapped it out for the 32". I bet that 084 is a handful to lug around, I had an 056 Magnum and that was a heavy saw.
 

Snapped-off

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My local dealer has one. It's kinda tempting but I just don't need one right now... I'm going to pick up a 261c next.

I did just pick up a 180 last week.
 

stihlcollector

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I retired from STIHL Inc in Virginia Beach Jan 2021. I bought one when I retired for my collection because it is a great saw. My job was to take the shop manual Germany created and then make a service training module that covered what the shop manual didn't so American tech's could do service and troubleshooting accurately and quickly, and then teach hands on schools to those techs who had a boss willing to invest in training for their techs. It was truly designed for ease of service and repair, more so than any other chainsaw I have ever worked on. I got to see the prototype, first field test models, and visit with the folks in Germany that designed that saw. There were some minor things in the first versions but current models to my knowledge have no issues. It is an impressive saw with instant throttle response and good torque through the cut. It will not replace a MS 660 with a long bar for large diameter cuts. It was designed to be used with a 25" or 32" bar and be a saw a tree guy could fell and limb and buck with, using one saw instead of two, and it does that very well. Best advice I can give you is to use an alkylate fuel such as Moto-Mix or Aspen if you can afford it, otherwise use ethanol free 87 or 89 octane and STIHL HP Ultra oil. If you use any kind of pump gas never let it sit for more than a week with fuel in it. Dump it out and let it idle till it dies. The fuel system is vented to atmosphere and any kind of pump gas has a very short shelf life when it sits and oxygen can get to it.
 

Kurt4440

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I bet that 084 is a handful to lug around, I had an 056 Magnum and that was a heavy saw.
When I bought the 084 I was very strong, so it wasn't really an issue. However, I am pushing 60, and still strong, but, I don't know if it is a saw for a 70 year old. Time will tell.
 
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Rinspeed

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I retired from STIHL Inc in Virginia Beach Jan 2021. I bought one when I retired for my collection because it is a great saw. My job was to take the shop manual Germany created and then make a service training module that covered what the shop manual didn't so American tech's could do service and troubleshooting accurately and quickly, and then teach hands on schools to those techs who had a boss willing to invest in training for their techs. It was truly designed for ease of service and repair, more so than any other chainsaw I have ever worked on. I got to see the prototype, first field test models, and visit with the folks in Germany that designed that saw. There were some minor things in the first versions but current models to my knowledge have no issues. It is an impressive saw with instant throttle response and good torque through the cut. It will not replace a MS 660 with a long bar for large diameter cuts. It was designed to be used with a 25" or 32" bar and be a saw a tree guy could fell and limb and buck with, using one saw instead of two, and it does that very well. Best advice I can give you is to use an alkylate fuel such as Moto-Mix or Aspen if you can afford it, otherwise use ethanol free 87 or 89 octane and STIHL HP Ultra oil. If you use any kind of pump gas never let it sit for more than a week with fuel in it. Dump it out and let it idle till it dies. The fuel system is vented to atmosphere and any kind of pump gas has a very short shelf life when it sits and oxygen can get to it.





Ok, thanks for the info.
 
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nafterclifen

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Nov 22, 2014
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525
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Poconos, PA
I retired from STIHL Inc in Virginia Beach Jan 2021. I bought one when I retired for my collection because it is a great saw. My job was to take the shop manual Germany created and then make a service training module that covered what the shop manual didn't so American tech's could do service and troubleshooting accurately and quickly, and then teach hands on schools to those techs who had a boss willing to invest in training for their techs. It was truly designed for ease of service and repair, more so than any other chainsaw I have ever worked on. I got to see the prototype, first field test models, and visit with the folks in Germany that designed that saw. There were some minor things in the first versions but current models to my knowledge have no issues. It is an impressive saw with instant throttle response and good torque through the cut. It will not replace a MS 660 with a long bar for large diameter cuts. It was designed to be used with a 25" or 32" bar and be a saw a tree guy could fell and limb and buck with, using one saw instead of two, and it does that very well. Best advice I can give you is to use an alkylate fuel such as Moto-Mix or Aspen if you can afford it, otherwise use ethanol free 87 or 89 octane and STIHL HP Ultra oil. If you use any kind of pump gas never let it sit for more than a week with fuel in it. Dump it out and let it idle till it dies. The fuel system is vented to atmosphere and any kind of pump gas has a very short shelf life when it sits and oxygen can get to it.

Lots of good info, thanks!
 
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Rinspeed

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I retired from STIHL Inc in Virginia Beach Jan 2021. I bought one when I retired for my collection because it is a great saw. My job was to take the shop manual Germany created and then make a service training module that covered what the shop manual didn't so American tech's could do service and troubleshooting accurately and quickly, and then teach hands on schools to those techs who had a boss willing to invest in training for their techs. It was truly designed for ease of service and repair, more so than any other chainsaw I have ever worked on. I got to see the prototype, first field test models, and visit with the folks in Germany that designed that saw. There were some minor things in the first versions but current models to my knowledge have no issues. It is an impressive saw with instant throttle response and good torque through the cut. It will not replace a MS 660 with a long bar for large diameter cuts. It was designed to be used with a 25" or 32" bar and be a saw a tree guy could fell and limb and buck with, using one saw instead of two, and it does that very well. Best advice I can give you is to use an alkylate fuel such as Moto-Mix or Aspen if you can afford it, otherwise use ethanol free 87 or 89 octane and STIHL HP Ultra oil. If you use any kind of pump gas never let it sit for more than a week with fuel in it. Dump it out and let it idle till it dies. The fuel system is vented to atmosphere and any kind of pump gas has a very short shelf life when it sits and oxygen can get to it.





What can you tell me about letting it idle for a couple minutes so it can calibrate itself. Also, any tips on break in would be helpful. Seems like a lot of people just fire them up and let them rip, thanks again.
 

Davefr

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OR
What can you tell me about letting it idle for a couple minutes so it can calibrate itself. Also, any tips on break in would be helpful. Seems like a lot of people just fire them up and let them rip, thanks again.
For "most" new saw break in:
1. Let them warm up for a minute of two before putting them to work.
2. Never go WOT unless you're in the wood and avoid long WOT cutting sessions.
3. Some guys break saws in by letting them do nothing more then idle for the entire first tank.
4. Use premium 2 cycle oil or quality premix and maybe go 40:1 for the first tank.

Be patient because most saws really wake up after a few tanks.

Let us know how you like your new saw.
 
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stihlcollector

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Oct 3, 2021
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Well Rinspeed, I can see some confusion here in these posts so let's clear it up. Most STIHL chain saws are normally aspirated with a carb. Current MS 170, MS 250, MS 391 for example. Several pro models have the STIHL M-Tronic carb system. Saws with C-M designation: MS 362 C-M, MS 661 C-M etc. A C-M saw has no mixture screws on the carb, fuel is metered electronically by a microprocessor in the ignition module that also controls ignition timing. The carb has a square wave operated solenoid that can open and close 33 times a second to meter fuel at all engine speeds. Main reason for this is that the saw will tune itself as you change altitude (need leaner adjustment as you go up the mountain, richer as you come down), use different brands of fuel, air filter getting dirty (dirty filter causes rich running), better starting in cold weather, even adjusts to the load on a long cut with a long bar in large diameter wood. To re-calibrate the M-Tronic saw you start it with the Master Control Lever in the triangle position (it is not called choke, but it does close a shutter with a big air bleed and a switch that tells the microprocessor the shutter is closed) and leave it idling in that position for 30 to 45 seconds then kill the engine. This puts all the fuel trim settings back to factory default. This should only be done if you install a new clean air filter, or change a worn out spark plug or do any serious service to the fuel system. There is no reason to re-calibrate on some periodic schedule.
Davefr mentioned break in and he is right, with a two ring piston and a chrome plated cylinder it does take a few tanks of fuel to bed in the rings, but STIHL does not require the operator to really do anything different when new compared to later, but you can if you want. The reason is that the manufacturing tolerances and quality control used to make these parts is at the same level as automotive, and the fit and finish of the parts is really phenomenal. And this is true for the MS 170 all the way up to all pro models. There is no field calibration for the MS 500i. I can diagnose and reset it with the MDG1 which is a scan tool I connect to the computer with Bluetooth to interface with the fuel injection system.
So I will go ahead and go deep here on the fuel injection. This is low pressure fuel injection. Fuel pressure is created for starting by pumping the primer 10X, then start it up. Once running an impulse pump driven by the fluctuation in crankcase pressure maintains a regulated 100mbar so when the injector opens fuel flows, but the injector opens into the crankcase when the piston is moving up so negative pressure is present, so high pressure is not needed. You still mix oil with the gas and it needs to wash the crankcase on it's way to the combustion chamber just like any other hand held two-stroke.
There is temp sensor in the crankcase and one in the ECM so the saw knows if it is a warm start or cold start by comparing them. There is a pressure sensor in the crankcase feeding info to the ECM regarding if there is pressure or vacuum, so it can be interpreted as piston position. The RPM is measured by recording how many times a second the flywheel spins around the generator, which powers the ECM and also powers the ignition coil. This is not a magneto. This pic shows what all is happening when you pull the rope.
ECU.jpg
The other thing about starting is to pump the primer 10X even for a warm start to purge any vapor bubbles from the fuel system and insure there is pressure for starting injection. It is an amazing piece of technology designed to work in abusive operating conditions and my personal experience is that it works very well. You will enjoy cutting with it. Get someone to take a pic when you are cutting so we can see the smile on your face. Mine always makes me smile when I use it!
 
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Rinspeed

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So, last night I finally had some time to fill it with gas and oil to fire it up. Added a touch extra oil to the tank, hit the primer bulb eight times and started pulling. It took at least seven or eight pulls for it to fire but that wasn't a surprise. They wanted to start it before I left Runnings but I told them I was good. I let it fully warm up idling and cool down twice. Think I will do that one more time and then let her rip.

Throttle response was very crisp the couple times I hit it. Can't wait to get it in some wood but sadly it is supposed to rain today. A little weird but you are supposed to prime it every time you start even when warm, second time it fired right up first pull. I'll give another update after I have some real time on it.
 
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Rinspeed

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Just as a follow up, I'm very, very impressed with the 500i. I've ran multiple Pro Stihl and Husky saws from 60cc to 85cc and the 500i is the real deal. Throttle response is instantaneous and it never even hinted at bogging even a bit, it's no wonder these are slightly harder to find in stock.
 

tarmy

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Thank you Sir, my brother cuts for a living and he runs a Husky. Now he runs a 372XP but his previous one was a 395XP and it ripped very well. Reason I went with the 500i is because the power to weight is off the charts. Next saw will be a MS261 just because I'm getting a little older and not nowhere near as strong as I used to be.
I am getting older like you and run two saws as well. If you are getting that 261 try the 241c first. For a smaller saw that commercial lineup is awesome. That thing is a badass little beast…lots of torque for anything under 12” or so. I only haul the big saw out on trees over 20”.
IMG_1955.jpegIMG_1954.jpeg
 

Snapped-off

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I am getting older like you and run two saws as well. If you are getting that 261 try the 241c first. For a smaller saw that commercial lineup is awesome. That thing is a badass little beast…lots of torque for anything under 12” or so. I only haul the big saw out on trees over 20”.
IMG_1955.jpegIMG_1954.jpeg
Looks like the 241c is discontinued in the US.
 

tarmy

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Looks like the 241c is discontinued in the US.
Damn…looks like the 261c is the new option. I wanted that M-tronic tech as I use my saw at sea level, 4500’ and 7200’….and that is a friggin great self adjusting carb so I don’t need to tinker with it.
 

Snapped-off

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Damn…looks like the 261c is the new option. I wanted that M-tronic tech as I use my saw at sea level, 4500’ and 7200’….and that is a friggin great self adjusting carb so I don’t need to tinker with it.
The 261c seems to be their smallest pro saw now. I would've gone with a 241c over the 180 I got if it was avaliable.
 

jonshonda

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The 261c seems to be their smallest pro saw now. I would've gone with a 241c over the 180 I got if it was avaliable.

They do have their in tree arborist saws (MS201, 194) which I see almost every tree service use when the guys are limbing before dropping the trunk, and they seem to cut through most stuff up to 12" w/o issue. But I understand they have a different purpose, but would make a decent partner for a bigger saw if you limb before bucking a lot.

OT first chainsaw purchase story. When I bought my first (and only) chainsaw I had my mind set on a MS261, but a coworker chimed in and said that was too much saw for my intended use. Well I took his advice and bought a MS250 instead of the MS261. It's funny because I rarely let people talk me out of buying the item I want as I have usually done the research, have my mind made up before I even go to the shop, and have been buying "lifetime" tools when I can afford to, especially if I plan on using them a decent amount.

Long story short I am happy with the MS250 after putting a yellow chain on it, and a muffler from an old 026. I keep up good enough with the guys with a little bigger saws cutting oak, but do regret not purchasing the MS261 as the MS250 just doesn't feel like a legacy tool. I will continue to use it and enjoy it, but don't have the pride in ownership like I would with the MS261.
 

signcrafter

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Well Rinspeed, I can see some confusion here in these posts so let's clear it up. Most STIHL chain saws are normally aspirated with a carb. Current MS 170, MS 250, MS 391 for example. Several pro models have the STIHL M-Tronic carb system. Saws with C-M designation: MS 362 C-M, MS 661 C-M etc. A C-M saw has no mixture screws on the carb, fuel is metered electronically by a microprocessor in the ignition module that also controls ignition timing. The carb has a square wave operated solenoid that can open and close 33 times a second to meter fuel at all engine speeds. Main reason for this is that the saw will tune itself as you change altitude (need leaner adjustment as you go up the mountain, richer as you come down), use different brands of fuel, air filter getting dirty (dirty filter causes rich running), better starting in cold weather, even adjusts to the load on a long cut with a long bar in large diameter wood. To re-calibrate the M-Tronic saw you start it with the Master Control Lever in the triangle position (it is not called choke, but it does close a shutter with a big air bleed and a switch that tells the microprocessor the shutter is closed) and leave it idling in that position for 30 to 45 seconds then kill the engine. This puts all the fuel trim settings back to factory default. This should only be done if you install a new clean air filter, or change a worn out spark plug or do any serious service to the fuel system. There is no reason to re-calibrate on some periodic schedule.
Davefr mentioned break in and he is right, with a two ring piston and a chrome plated cylinder it does take a few tanks of fuel to bed in the rings, but STIHL does not require the operator to really do anything different when new compared to later, but you can if you want. The reason is that the manufacturing tolerances and quality control used to make these parts is at the same level as automotive, and the fit and finish of the parts is really phenomenal. And this is true for the MS 170 all the way up to all pro models. There is no field calibration for the MS 500i. I can diagnose and reset it with the MDG1 which is a scan tool I connect to the computer with Bluetooth to interface with the fuel injection system.
So I will go ahead and go deep here on the fuel injection. This is low pressure fuel injection. Fuel pressure is created for starting by pumping the primer 10X, then start it up. Once running an impulse pump driven by the fluctuation in crankcase pressure maintains a regulated 100mbar so when the injector opens fuel flows, but the injector opens into the crankcase when the piston is moving up so negative pressure is present, so high pressure is not needed. You still mix oil with the gas and it needs to wash the crankcase on it's way to the combustion chamber just like any other hand held two-stroke.
There is temp sensor in the crankcase and one in the ECM so the saw knows if it is a warm start or cold start by comparing them. There is a pressure sensor in the crankcase feeding info to the ECM regarding if there is pressure or vacuum, so it can be interpreted as piston position. The RPM is measured by recording how many times a second the flywheel spins around the generator, which powers the ECM and also powers the ignition coil. This is not a magneto. This pic shows what all is happening when you pull the rope.
ECU.jpg
The other thing about starting is to pump the primer 10X even for a warm start to purge any vapor bubbles from the fuel system and insure there is pressure for starting injection. It is an amazing piece of technology designed to work in abusive operating conditions and my personal experience is that it works very well. You will enjoy cutting with it. Get someone to take a pic when you are cutting so we can see the smile on your face. Mine always makes me smile when I use it!
A scan tool for a chainsaw, never would have imagined that. But guess with all the computer control features you mentioned it would be nice for a service place or bigger company running multiple saws to diagnose quickly. Just googled mdg1 to see the price and ouch.
 
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Rinspeed

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They do have their in tree arborist saws (MS201, 194) which I see almost every tree service use when the guys are limbing before dropping the trunk, and they seem to cut through most stuff up to 12" w/o issue.






I almost bought a MS201 last year but the reviews rather **** compared to all the other Pro Stihls. I've used my brothers Husky top handle and they are handy as hell.
 

jonshonda

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I almost bought a MS201 last year but the reviews rather **** compared to all the other Pro Stihls. I've used my brothers Husky top handle and they are handy as hell.

I think the MS194T has been around forever and is their gold standard for limbing.
 

fletcher94

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Joined
Sep 4, 2023
Messages
29
Nice buy.

I bought a 500i after my 462cm was stolen. I was hesitant to have efi on a chainsaw but no regrets now. It works as needed everytime. My only complaint is it seems to go through fuel pretty quick. However power an response is well worth it.
 
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Rinspeed

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OMG, what an amazing piece of equipment the 500i is. It just chews up wood at an amazing rate and just begs for more. As I said I've run multiple Stihl and Husky Pro saws but this thing is very special. There simply is no hesitation or bogging of any sort, it just keeps throwing chips out. Can't wait to get into some bigger stuff out back. If you're on the fence about buying one of these it really is a no brainer.
 

seber

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My local dealer has one. It's kinda tempting but I just don't need one right now... I'm going to pick up a 261c next.

I did just pick up a 180 last week.
Over the years I've had Stihl saws from the smallest up to 044. I always go back to the 26. Great power to weight and they just run. I think I have bought and sold four of them. Now it is the only one I still have. At 77 I think the big ones are in my past.
 
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